Nefarious

!!!! You have all that around and can't use it!!!?? I would be so angry. lol. We just have to pay for our raw powder and run our parts in when the ovens are already going so it doesn't waste company natural gas. Also we can use the powder that has expired as it does have a shelf life and we have about 400 boxes of powder of various colours laying around. I would die with all that fab equipment and no means to use it! lol. Yeah we have phosphate dunk tanks for steel and acid etching tanks for aluminum prep. 1500+ degree burn off oven. Diesel powered sand blasting tent, 2 powder booths, 2 main ovens. The larger one is 25 feet x 10 feet wide x 8 feet tall. So whatever will fit in there can be coated! One day I will take off my frame and sand blast/coat inside and out lol one day.....

Just a quick update. I have the shocks installed now and they ride NICE. I am actually really impressed. At first I was a little leery to using different Ford models but the information made sense. I gotta say the pathy rides like a cadillac now!! It is so smooth and soaks up every little bump in the road. The bouncy front end is all but GONE. I thought all pathys just had a bumpy front end by nature! lol. Well these things smoothed it out anyways. Thanks wd21overland!!!

Like I said I changed the fluid in my 240sx diff to synthetic . It came out black and had metal shavings on the magnet. I have been driving it for 2.5-3 years now dude. I promised myself I would replace it when it gets a little worse but it keeps staying the same. Take it with a grain of salt, but this has been my experience! I think you would be fine personally but that's just my opinion!

You really do need a timing light to do it properly, bro. Sorry to say it!

Yeah I did end up grinding down the o2 bung so it was lower profile like the stock one was. Maybe I wasted my time but just trying to eliminate everything!! Finished up the tail pipe today in 3" pipe (I already had the 90 bend and tail pipe bit so I just reused it) although I would like to make one in 2.5"... The 3" just sounds so aggressive and it's just a hair too loud. Fan controller wiring is finished and I got everything ready to rock now... I'll swap insurance over tomorrow and keep updated on how it goes..

Okay so I tested around everywhere. I added a jumper to the grounds i suspected. I tested all the grounds I could find and one ground seemed pretty bad but it was the one coming off the alternator harness as well as one I am not sure what it was for but right behind the battery.. they read about 3 ohm or maybe 4. anyways I rerouted those right to the negative battery cable where it first grounds to the chassis. so that is now a 0 ohm. also the TPS connector seemed loose so I took it out, tightened and cleaned the contacts. did the same for the MAF. They are on much more snuggly now. The TPS seemed to be almost loose originally. Didn't notice when I was plugging things in in a hurry. I also put in a jerry can of premium and a heavy dose of fuel injector cleaner. I can honestly say it is running MUCH better now. The bog is nearly 100% gone now and it doesn't die out anymore!! I still have yet to throw the tail pipe on the end of the muffler but I don't see how that could effect it. I also noticed my O2 sensor bung seems a little long.... I used a nut from the auto store and it is a little wide... I think I will take that middle piece back out and grind the nut down some so the sensor sits further into the stream of exhaust. It might be held back a bit I wonder if that would matter too much. Anyways it's almost there! Definitely driveable now I'm going to insure it today!!! Woooo!!!! Hopefully this last tweak makes it perfect.

i dunno man. nissan diffs are pretty good. I have had growling diff bearings in my 240sx for about 3.5 years now (the whole ownership of the vehicle). lol and it has never changed or gotten worse. it is not very loud though so maybe yours is worse ? mine is just a low bassy hum I can barely hear over my exhaust. I would think you would be fine, honestly though!

this is what i meant to post up before the site crapped out lol. and yes these rims have quite the offset to them. I would like to find some 15x8 rims with alloy deep dish to drop some wheel weight, but these came with the truck so I figured I would make them pretty and they sure look mean with the duras on there! lol oh yeah its had some abuse but he also put a LOT of money in new parts into it before he sold it. like about 2 grand worth lol. so the mechanics of the truck is SOLID. and it is virtually rust free. most of the frame still has factory shiny paint on it. I would like to find some used rough country style control arms as well if anyone is selling any or knows where I can buy just the arms seperately. I don't want to lift the front much more without ball joint angle correction of some kind. Is there anywhere that makes spacers with lots of angle to them? I've seen lots of threads about it but no where that actually sells them.

1 - i am about to make some brackets to lift up my rear bumper. 2 - i plan on ditching the brush guard... I have this to throw on to replace it. 3 - 3" SL is in the works but I'm still going to cut metal out!!! Bottoms of the fenders where much too restrictive, how was I ever gunna stuff the 33? and yes I know a powder coater quite well.... he is me!! lol. I did all those at work for free wooooo.

good tip. I will go poke my girl today with the multimeter and figure this out.

awesome thanks man, appreciate it!

Yeah i got those grounds. But im talking the ones that come off of the main harness that runs across the front of the motor. right where the coolant temp sensor is. there are a few grounds there.... i wanted to see where they are grounded to...

So everything with the truck is perfect aside from the hesitation/bog just when taking off initially... if u give it a lot of gas it will actually shut the engine off. if u just give it a tiny bit of a gas until it climbs from 750-900 or so rpm then u can rev it fine and give it lots of gas, and has lots of power. its just when it's going from idle to revs under load. under no load the problem doesnt seem to happen at all (free revving). Any more ideas? I know for a fact both of these engines ran well before the swap. Mine old one had low compression on a cylinder but it ran fine and revved fine and aside from being a little underpowered had no issues. The engine I swapped in came from a running truck which I pulled it out of and I ran the motor and put it through the paces before I bought the donor truck. I wiggled the maf connector and it didn't seem to effect anything although it's pretty hard to do it when I am driving the truck under load. Lol.... I need a small person to sit on my engine while i run the truck!! hahaha. I'll take some close up pictures tomorrow of the wiring.. Also could someone please post up a picture of the stock VG30E grounds and where they are routed for the ones around the coolant temp sensor? I don't like how those are grounded... I may run a ground jumper from those grounds back to the chassis to make sure they are solid. The metal they are bolted to(the only bolt hole around) looks suspect. Also there shouldn't be an issue joining the 3 grounds together in that aforementioned area should there? I do have them run together as I couldn't forget exactly how they went. ya ya I should have taken pictures first, I know.... I was eager! lol

thanks guys bring on the snow.....

wow that is sick!! lol

I agree. I broke the plastic door handle in the winter trying to open the door so I got the metal ones (which came in chrome) on ebay for cheap. I can powder coat those black.. and the grill I would like to paint gloss black as well. Too bad it's all plastic... Wet paint it is. That is much less important than finishing my lift though!!!

Put these on..... Freshly powdercoated rims/ new Goodyear Duratracs!

Ya I believe the O2 sensor is 12mm x 1.5 thread. I know it's 12 mm. also any auto store should have exhaust flanges/gaskets/clamps/pipes/bends? have u TRIED going to the local automotive store yet? lol you could also just use slip joints that slide onto each other, then clamp down. just a little harder to get in and out that way... especially out, I find...

this is the bumper that came on my truck when i bought it. I just powdercoated it and made it pretty at work...

I fell in love when I saw these tires in person man. I CAN'T WAIT to drive this thing tomorrow!!!!

3 stage powder coat job. zinc epoxy primer/gunmetal with metal flake/clearcoat a little wider stance now...lol cut/welded backs of the front fenders for clearance, no more sharp edges to tear tire with. finally some ground clearance! and now it has the power to push these babies!! still got tons of power off the line. will have to see how it does on the highway. 2 stage powdercoated gloss black front bumper/bull bar. zinc epoxy primer/gloss black. put in all clear lights. 2 stage powdercoated custom rear bumper. zinc epoxy primer/gloss black.

here they are!!! I just powder coated those rims with a 3 stage coat. zinc epoxy primer/gunmetal grey with metal flake added/clear coat vroom vroom. a little wider...lol cut off the pinch seam flush on the back of the front fender and then welded the sheet metal together, hammered it down a little further with a torch then undercoated it. the fronts of the fenders were cut when i got the truck. now my drums are ugly....time for rear discs.... still got to mount some mud flaps. thats just cruel to other drivers.... it fits ! wheels turn both ways fully. could use 1 more inch of lift in the front just to be safe.

I have a 3" body lift and cranked up my torsion bars about an inch and a half over stock and I put these on today. 33x12.5x15 goodyear duratrac (close to true 33"). on very low offset steel 15x10 rims. I did do some fender trimming though!

I would pick up a strap wrench and do my own oil changes... Strap wrench makes all the difference in getting those filters off. P.S. Just hand tighten it, and don't crank on it. The oil filter does not need to be torqued on it will not go anywhere. Then you can get it off again too. Just a tip lol.

I wouldn't worry about breaking a valve cover bolts. It's probably already loose if the cover is leaking that badly. Not much to know really... Don't drop things in the top of the motor when you open the case! Even little bits of gasket or anything make sure to keep it clean. Put in new gasket.. Torque the bolts to the proper torque spec an in the right tightening sequence. No big deal. The other side is a little more difficult but really it's not that bad of a job to pull the upper plenum. The lines in the back are the only real pain. To spot oil leaks just get some engine cleaner or degreaser and clean off the engine of oil/dirt/mud/sludge mixture and then keep an eye on it an see where the oil is coming from.