Nefarious

Between gaskets and header flange.... do not try and make a gaskets out of purely rtv... you only do that with cooling system components..

I was lookin under the front of a jgc yesterday and it had coils and radius arms I believe with a driver side drop!! I'm thinking I might just chop up a jgc front end and weld the exact mounts from the jgc into my pathy ... looks Damn straight forward... simple easy to locate mounts and coils up front! Just need to make sure I can find gears for it.. I started looking at the ones I saw around town and some Cherokee even the newer style had leafs up front and some had coils and stamped factory arms... they had the same body style I saw many around town... I think I'm going to find one to chop up....

Hense the reason I wanted to start this post. I wanted to know similarities and things that cab swap over. Couldn't find any threads with direct comparison of wd21 and wd22 front ends. I see xterra run 33s all the time even close to stock it would seem they have stronger parts. I want to know what can be used and if the aftermarket ucas might work if the xterra balljoint are used. Also as there are long travel 4wd kits for xterra I was hoping it could be adapted. And I also couldn't find any info on the exact amount of down travel each after market control ARM has (which arms allow the most front end articulation. Ie the largest gap between the bump stops.

Hey I just had some questions regarding the compatibility between WD21 and WD22 IFS parts (or any parts for that matter). I am looking into options to beef up my WD21 pathfinder IFS. I am running 33x12.5 tires and wheel regularly. I also drive on the highway regularly so IFS is definitely nice. I have my bars cranked up about 2 or 2 and a half inches right now with all stock components other than longer sway bar end links. I am wondering about upper control arm options.... I want the most balljoint angle correction and the most travel (clearance to upper bumpstop). What similarities are there between the WD21 and WD22 upper control arms? they look similar from pictures, and I have heard the front ends are similar between the pre 05 models of WD22 and WD21... The 720 upper arms look the same as WD21 as well... Any other options? What similarities are in the steering of WD21 and WD22 trucks? Any possible upgrading here using newer better designed components? Which arms allow the most down travel and balljoint correction for a lift? I am fine with installing drop bushings in the diff. Also are there any options to get rid of the lame torsion bars and install coilover mounts? I could then drop my diff down even more and then run some proper lift/travel front shocks/coils. I can cut and weld and am willing to experiment so any info would be great. Also I read that 06+ WD22 use a proper coilover front suspension which allows a lower diff mount and rid of the horrible torsion bars. Anyone seen someone running these modified to fit a pathfinder? Seems like it would be such a better design if I could just utilize it on my WD21... Well any info is appreciated. Really trying to weigh the pros and cons of a SAS vs proper IFS setup. I'm willing to do the work for either but I woudl like to stay IFS if i can get some real travel out of it and the nice ride of coils. Otherwise its SAS time i guess.... something like this is EXACTLY what i am looking for. is there any chance it would fit with some modification to a WD21?? Total Chaos long travel IFS for 00-04 xterra

dude that is a slick find. i need to run across something like that

yeah I have a pathfinder already but it has a vg33e. good power but the mileage could be better. i heard those turbo diesel terranos can get upwards of 30mpg on the highway. now that is attractive to me.... and you can always add an intercooler, a freeflow exhaust and crank up the boost for more power!

Yeah I think this is one of my next mods... My 93 xe headlights are the big SUCK. lol

The hardbody outer tie rod have an offset and a bend right before the outer tie rod ball joint itself which go the wrong way and limit the amount of balljoint travel on the tie rod. The pathy outers are just straight to allow a proper angle.

Yeah seriously I want to see this thing done properly and in action!!! My CL is seriously worn...

Nice r3m terrano dude. There is one just down the road from me that needs a trans...its an auto with 70k km on it... prob get it for 1500 bucks... what's your diesel mileage like?? It's turbo diesel as well

No problem. Good luck on tire choice!! I am running Goodyear duratracs and they have been great all around tires. They are an all terrain but very aggressive tread blocks for mud but very quiet and get good mileage on the road. They are also snow flake rated for winter driving if u have ice or snow in winter. My truck is open differential (no locker of any kind) and I was towing cars up very steep hills of ice and a foot of snow with my pathy and those duratracs. Hehe. They are amazing off-road and mud pits are a breeze now.

I'm sure by BFH you meant a 'big friendly hammer'? Hehe k ill try er out when I get home... I need a full day at the car boneyard.... my 240sx need a steering rack too... hmm well junk yard trip it is!!

you can run 31"x10.5" wide tires on your stock rims without any lift. 31x10.5 is the large tire option for pathfinder so it was a factory option.. i believe the 235 75r15 is close to a 29"x9" tire, something around there anyways just for reference. you can even fit 33"x10.5" tires on there if you want if you crank up the bars a bit. there is no risk to your suspension by lifting your front end 1-1.5 inches higher than factory height. keep in mind your front end is already probably sagging down from age so you may need to adjust them up a bit to set your ride height back to factory. and then from there you can lift the truck another 1-1.5 inches over stock height safely with no other parts needed. just some wrenches! probably 2-2.5" higher than you have them set now, if you haven't adjusted them back to factory height yet, depending on the age and mileage of your truck. just make sure to get an alignment after everything is set to the proper height up front. the rear shouldnt have any issues. so basically 31x10.5 will fit easilly. 33x10.5 will fit with a bit of adjustments and maybe some SLIGHT trimming and by that i mean like possibly taking off your fender flares (if you have them) or hammering down the pinch seam in the rear of the front wheel inside fender. if you hammer down the seam make sure to get a can of undercoat to blast on there after to prevent rust! there may be some slight rubbing but i don't think so. the only hang up really is that pinch seam in the rear of the front fender, get in there and look and you will see what i mean.

my power and mileage definitely increased. unmistakable difference in throttle response and a bit of power, the engine runs more smoothly and my mileage went up 1mpg on average. i average 20mpg on the highway with vg33e with NO egr, NO catalytic converter in a wd21 with 6 inches of lift on 33x12.5 tires. i am running larger than stock tires but because it drops my highway revs down below 2k rpm my mileage stayed the same or improved. not much city driving here mostly highway and trails so i can only give you those figures. my alignment needs to be done and im running 50+ lbs each steel rims (15x10). im sure once i get an alignment and switch to these new 17-18 lb 15x8 alloys my mileage will improve significantly more.

yeah i suppose i could try and get a junkyard center link/inners off without mangling them too bad. i dunno i have a hard time getting them off without destroying the boots!!! any tricks? lol pickle fork is aggressive and destroys boots.... maybe ill try picking up oen of those balljoint poppers and see if it works a little more delicately...lol

pennzoil makes a 75w90 GL-4 full synthetic. i got it at napa before for my 240sx.

thats pretty cheap. lol although i dont need the idler or outers... heres a set... full set or this one... just center link

yeah the z just needs a windshield and probably a power transistor unit, so it idles high and runs super rich. it does run smoothly and strong though. and no way am I pulling my z32 apart! I just spent over 100 hours of works restoring the front end of it from a collision replacing the entire front of the unibody structure and then making it all look factory again! lol... plus it's a "slicktop" hardtop model of z32 which are really rare. and my pathy has a vg33e swap intake/headers/exhaust/efans etc so it hauls pretty good as it is. the PTU is only about 120 bucks so thats not too bad but im shopping around for a cheap windshield replacement... doesn't seem to be too cheap thus far but i think i may have found someone who can come to my place to do it. cant pass inspection with bad glass! yeah 2wd center link... hmmm i wanted to do that but I heard nothing back on how well it works or anyone who has done it the proper way by actually tapping out the adjusting sleeves larger to use pathy outer tie rods... maybe ill just do that so i can spend the little bit of time it will take to the get the z32 on the road... then sas the pathy once it's done. then i will only be out the price of a 2wd center link and inner tie rods... i wonder where the cheapest 2wd inners and center link i can find are... lol

Ok this is seriously awesome information guys. I had the basics but these specifics are just what I needed. where I live is very spread out from town to town by long highway stretches (Vancouver island). So I'm either on the hwy or on the trails. I don't do much city driving so its very important for stable highway driving at 70-80 mph. Using only joints on axle side sounds the best and rubber or poly Bushings on frame side I'm assuming. Wear life and maybe just a bit of road damping would be nice, lol. Ok ya now I got it for the waggy axle... truss idea would be a breeze. Thanks tmoore for all the detailed info!!! You really helped me out a lot. That is great news on the gear option too... seems 4.56 is definitely close enough to 4.63 to work...5% is the limit hey wow. That's substantial.! Well now the choice is to be made... I am going to get my electronics technician certifications so ill be in school for a year to get my ticket.. will have to chose between installing beefy ifs now (centerlink is worn and don't want to just wear out another oem one) which I could do quickly to keep driving my path... or just park the pathy and put my z32 on the road to take the time to sas.....z32 needs a bit of work too to get inspected .(out of province) ... Mhmmmm

Mazworx makes a VH45DE ~ Z32 transmission adapter... so if you built a hybrid transmission from z32 front/pathfinder rear transmission like the guy who did the VG30DE swap then buy the trans adapter. If the VG30E AND VG30DE share the same bellhousing pattern then you can just bolt up the adapter plate. I am planning on a VH45DE swap in my 300zx soon so I have done the research and parts exist. There is also now a VK56DE ~ Z32 transmission or to Z33 transmission adapters too. Be the first to swap a Nissan Titan motor in there!!! That would be sick!!!!

Nevermind... looks like patrols are passenger drop

Well the pathy rear end has a central located diff... I need a diff with driver side drop of the front drive shaft.... although I would love a h233b up front.... like a Nissan patrol.... build a patrolfinder lol... are they driver drop?? I should try and find a wrecked patrol and see if I could make that work.

Yeah my mileage and power both increased once I removed the egr...

Touche! Lol

Oh awesome!! Perfect man thanks a lot for the link I never even knew about that site. Let the reading commence!