Nefarious

hmmmm, okay. well ill try and source a d44 axle....would prefer a ford d44 high pinion with chevy or waggy outers /brakes....still going to consider this though, i sure would like a h233b over a d44 even though theres less locker options, i would probably go lsd anyways

hey people. i am about to repair a weird rust hole/crack in the back of my frame, it's right between the frame-side mount for the pan-hard bar and goes a bit into the area where the upper bump stop is bolted on. Luckily its just the bottom and outside portion of the frame that is bad and its only for about a 4-5 inch area, the top and backside are perfect and solid steel. Really weird how localized it is but anyways....must be fixed before more winter road salt eats it up worse. Theres about a 2"x2" hole ont he bottom of the frame and a crack that runs half way up the outside of the frame. I'm wondering... 1) Would it be better to cut out all the bad rust and weld in new metal in its place? or... 2) Should I put a plate over top of the rusted area and just weld it up like that.. It seems like I would mess a lot less with the structural integrity by just welding a plate over top but the rust behind it would bother me and I don't know if it would just spread onto the new metal even faster... But my brain tells me to cut out the rust and weld in new metal in place of the old.... Anyways, any input is welcome, especially from those that have done frame repairs!! thanks

Awesome. Thanks so much for the link. That's just what the doctor ordered. This might just be do-able!

Awesome!! That's exactly what I was looking for. So I could use d44 outers, knuckles, brakes, only thing I'm still questioning is what axle shafts to use... or would i have to have them custom made? I'm guessing d44 axle shafts wouldn't be compatible with the h233b pumpkin guts

Ya I would have to order knuckles and axle shafts from overseas, the patrol axle wouldn't work out of the box anyways since the diff is on the wrong side so I would have to cut and paste anyways... hmm, I thought I remember someone on here cut a diff from one side to the other on a toyota axle... any input from people who have done any hardcore axle modifications like this? I may attempt it anyways since its just sitting there collecting dust but some heads up from people would be nice!

Hey guys, I read an xtreme 4x4 where the host turned a rear axle into a front axle... I have a spare h233b from my axle swap just sitting there and I am sure i would have a hard time selling it being its open diff and drum brakes, but I was thinking....I noticed the nissan axle housing is already welded together, not cast..so it should be easy to weld. I want to do a solid axle swap....and I have this spare axle sitting around. A front H233B would be absolutely awesome but I do NOT have the funds to drop down for a diamond axle. If I have to I will do a wagoneer d44 like most people but I just want to ask if anyone has converted a rear axle to front before? I would guess if I sourced some Patrol knuckles/brakes/axles then I should be able to cut and paste it all together then just find another H233B LSD and swap it in for the front axle as well. Is this viable at all? I don't have any experience creating axles but I do have a good amount of welding experience and I have this shiny new welder to use for it all.... Would I be able to use other knuckles for it? Or would only the patrol ones work? Would the gears inside work or would I have to source reverse cut gears? Anyways it was just a thought, never enough projects on the go. Any input is welcome, thanks!

I had the exact issue with my 240sx... was my maf connector..

Try cleaning your maf sensor wires and connector? Pretty common for 90s Nissan to have driveability issues with a dirty maf.

Ya man ! Once she is on the road ill post some pics of my gfs 400$ mint 93 SE with my 3.3 swapped beast

hell, that doesn't look too bad there for a diy carpet patch! might have to do that to mine....got a similar hole there albeit not quite so big... on a side not, got my gfs pathfinder purring like a kitten today! finally fixed all running issues it had....400$ MINT rust free pathfinder is now a go!! just need to unstick the e brake cable on it now since it was sitting for like 2 years with the e brake up....hoping i dont need to pull off the rear rotors to unstick the inside...brakes don't seem to be sticking i think the cable itself is just stuck a bit... e brake pulls itself about 2 loose clicks up on its own. gunna try to wd40 the hell out of the cable and let it sit for a while. almost ready for emissions inspection and then we will have 2 pathys to rip around in!! stoked!

Well I put most of a bottle of seafoam in the gas, cleaned the maf, swapped in my good distributor...fired it up and after a bit of a drive she purrs like a kitten!!! Has awesome power, drives great and no miss! Thanks for the help!!

Ya thats not a bad idea... I never even thought to ohm test the connection at the other end of the injector wire rather than test the injectors themselves... a couple foot run of wire isn't going to affect the overall resistance by much if any. I should have thought of that considering I just finished semester 1 of electronics tech school! Lmao

Okay, I did notice the distributor has a bit of play in it, ill try swapping the good one from my truck over and see if that helps. is it possible an injector is bad even with no codes?? There is still quite a loud ticking sound from the middle of the motor, and it runs a little rich. has new spark plugs gapped perfectly, fuel filter, air filter, o2 sensor. I just cleaned the cap connections of corrosion and inspected the rotors which lead me to the play in the distributor. I compared the lower gear teeth to my good one and the gears do look more rounded off and worn than mine. it has about 1/4 inch or maybe a little less of play. I guess this could be the cause of the slight miss hey? Just the ticking noise now, sigh I'm not looking forward to pulling the upper manifold again to ohm test the injectors...

Hey everyone. I just ran a compression test in my gfs truck and I'm seeing some variance in a cylinder. Most cylinders were between 170-175 psi but one (#6) read about 157. We just got the truck and have been tuning it up, done all the regular stuff...fuel/oil/air filters, fluid changes, o2, spark plugs, oil seals, timing belt, waterpump, tensioner... but it still has a slight miss... I'm wondering if the compression numbers are too far off or maybe its something else? There is a tick in the motor and also a miss which is noticeable mostly on decel (the reason I ran compression) . The miss is heard in the exhaust especially when the motor revs down under no load and the ticking noise sounds like its coming from the middle of the valley between the heads. I'm thinking injector(s)... Checked codes...55 so all good. Next I'm going to clean the maf and ohm test the coolant temp sensor, as well as the injectors.... is there anything else should look for while I'm there? The liters seem good, I ran some wynns engine tune through it and I inspected the lifters and when the valve covers were off no noticeable impairments... doesn't sound like lifter noise but maybe.... Any advice is welcome! Need to take this thing in for air care so my gf has a winter ride! Thanks

I'll see if I can track down the images and re post them today. Should have some time in the afternoon at university.

hey been a while, the altima fan is from (i believe) a 94, dont quote me though, its been a while! it was a dual fan setup but both fans were mounted together in a shroud, NOT the seperate fans that some altimas have, and thanks!

must be really lucky then cause it was 4 teeth off!!! must have had a horseshoe crammed up somewhere!! lol. at least i can laugh about it now that nothing is smashed...lol

Please post the pics up! lol. I want to do this to my truck ..... maybe then i wont be so jealous of the MT in my girlfriends pathy.

yeah ill be picking up a compression gauge this weekend when i can make it down to princess auto, until then it is finally time to finish working on my pathy!!! rear axle swap, some exhaust work, and finish putting the intake manifold back on and she is done

yeah i have a custom made idler arm brace, new idler bushings, 2wd steering swap, and oem monroe steering damper setup and have had ZERO problems since. i have my torsions cranked up pretty high like 3-3.5 inches with 1" bj spacers and low profile bump stops, 33x12.5 tires on 15x10 steel rims with a very low offset and the system is still holding up about a year later and lots of trails!

oh hey. yeah sorry that was my bad, thought the connection got interrupted on the other one so i posted it here and didnt notice the other one worked. wont happen again, anyways i did go to napa, got a gates belt, lined everything up again, went to start it again and bam, fired right up! so far so good, no weird noises or anything, the belt must have skipped some teeth.... i thought i had tensioned it right but maybe i didnt, anyways it runs good now! ill still do a compression test to confirm no bent valves but it runs good, has good power, clean exhaust and no strange noises. i guess i got lucky! lol. the napa belt (made by gates, but cheaper) was only 23 bux and had the marks. thanks for the replies everyone!