WOT

I guess I will just give them a call when Im off nightshift, Id rather buy local anyways. There site just didnt list anything about them Do you personally run OME springs?? I hear good things on there ride quality. Ill tell them my story I guess and see what they say, keeping medium duties in mind. Having a drop in spring would be nice instead of having to weld something onto the perch like I was going to for the WJ coils... but there so much cheaper

Lounge seating in the Qx4 .... from the factory, is it not the same for pathfinders?? You take the headrests off, put the front seats all the way forward and tilt them all the way back and the back of the fronts go flush with the bottoms of the rears. Then you tilt the rear seats back and wham... baby makin time

Ofcourse they email me saying they cant ship to canada ANyone got a good source for buying oem parts in canada?? I'll call the dealership but I expect alot higher quote

I do like the idea of WJ coils, Ill check them out. Seems pretty easy to install if all you have to do is weld on a piece of 3" pipe to the stock perch, and cut off the top pigtail.... Being as I plan to get even bigger with the stereo, WJ coils see very affordable option

$34 later, its on its way. Thanks guys, hope it fixes the problem, and shuts the lady up

hmmmm Ill send custom coils an email and see what kinda prices they can give me. Im quite cheap lol Do you guys see a problem with buying just a pair of OEM rear jeep WJ springs?? I havent seen anyone use there stock height ones, but the person on here who used them, said there 3" lift coils for the jeep, gave our r50's 4" of lift. So im thinking stock height factory WJ coils would maybe lift me just a bit, and I would weigh it down. But I dont know how the spring rates compare to my busted old ones. I have brand new GR2 shocks in the rear, everything stock upfront....

Ya I called National 4wd and 4 other shops. I dont think local is really an option I hear the .5" lift OME springs actually give 1.5" lift so that is kind of out of the running for me

And Im from Milton, Ontario. Cant find any info on any OME ontario dealers just yet, Im very willing to drive though

Wrong type of vehicle no way!! This bitch can do it. And its different from all the exploders and tahoes in the shows I go to. I'll make it work It bottoms out right now because I have removed the bump stops ( and discarded them stupidly ) for the airlift kits I was running

thanks for that, and thats both the sendor and the sensor?

It did it last night aswell. Cranks for 2-3 seconds, not nice steady cranks either, choking like you said. First I thought it could be fuel related, but I have a fuel pressure gauge, and Ive got 40+ at idle, and my intake and filter are new... Im hoping it isnt an ongoing problem, but Id like to fix the gauge atleast HA! This ones a keeper, shes just got an opinion on everything

Oh really theres a code for these problems?? The only code Im throwing currently is for the maxima maf that I recently put in. Do you happen to have the part number for the sendor you bought?? Im slightly annoyed with my girlfriend pointing out that my gauge is spiking everytime she gets in the car

knowone had this problem yet?

Well Im in canada and that site wants more for shipping then they do the actual springs!! lol The 600lb load is a competition type stereo, 3 batteries and about 4 sheets of 3/4" birch total plus equipment. I moved the batteries to about the center of the cabin, which helped alot not having it right at the back against the hatch, but it still sags The airlift1000 kit did the job perfect, but Im sick of blowing bags, and they dont honor there warranty

Im at a bit of a crossroad on how I should proceed with my suspension. Ive got a 2wd R50, so Im not looking to lift it or anything. But I also have a constant load in the rear of my car of about 600lbs, which sags the stock springs pretty bad. Especially with my 29" rear tires, they rub on anything more than a slight bump. Mind you they have 110k on them To battle the sag I was using the Airlift1000 kits, Ive been through 2 of the kits now, I dont know if its just to much weight for them, or if an ex girlfriend is cutting the bags, but they fail on me, and Id like to stop bandaiding the problem and just get nice springs. Ive heard 99-04 Jeep WJ springs fit, with a simple spring perch mod and cutting off the top pigtail. Since I am looking for a stock ride height, or even .5-1" lower than stock, I was thinking stock WJ spring would work, since stock WJ's would give me 1" lift, and my weight would probably lower it quite a bit. Cheapest stock spring I could find, that ships to canada, is this one. I havent gotten a shipping quote back from them yet, but the spring price is good. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-information.asp?number=OS-52088343&utm_source=cj But those springs require a weld on perch, and they do make springs specifically for our R50's, so would it really be worth it. I see alot of mixed answers on how much actual lift the OME springs offer, and 4x4parts.com website seems to be down at the moment but I remember them being about $150 My main concern is NOT actually lifting the rear of the truck, as my front is already lowerred and perfect where I want it. But I need to keep the rear from bottoming out from the weight, and another $120 in bandaid air bag kits isnt going to be my cup of tea this time around. What would you guys do??

I put away my summer car since we had our first big snowfall here in Ontario last night. And pulled the R50 into daily duties. I noticed today when I started it up though, that my coolant temp gauge, jumped instantly to the middle, like where normal operating temp would be, even though its minus 10 out and the car had been sitting all week. I was thinking maybe the coolant temp sensor may be faulty or even the gauge in the cluster? As I drove to the store, the temp gauge spiked to hot. My rad level seems fine and Im quite sure the reading is wrong based on it going to half mass on a cold start. Im debating adding an aftermarket gauge to the upper hose to verify and keep a check on it though. She had a hell of a time cranking over in the weather to so I put my battery on a charger I just cracked 100k miles, Im hoping sitting this summer out didnt turn my Qx4 into a problem child Thanks guys!!

Got a pic of your bar? I made my own aswell and think it is slightly improved over the jackson bar, curious to see what others came up with

hmmm Do you think there is a way to get power to the pumps when i pull the column lever back?? to function like oem is what id like

new oem or off brand fuel filter?? I bought a replacement filter from canadian tire and it was garbage, after installing it I could no longer go full throttle. Tested alot of things, eventually fuel pressure, and I only had something like 25psi at the fuel rail, I bypassed the fuel filter and sure enough it went back up to 45 I believe. OEM was ALOT more expensive I remember, and I dont recall what brand they sold me at crappy tire, but fuel pressure could be something to check if you have a tester Air leak upstream of the MAF would cause this to, but it wouldnt only really be at a certain speed range like you say it only happens at

I have 3 extra ones from your year pathfinder if it is indeed a bad motor, used, but good working if you want one. Its fuse #19 in the fusebox at the driver side dash There is 2 pumps like said behind the passenger fender liner, the one closest to the outside of the car is for the rear. Very simple 2 wire connector and you can give it a pull out of the rubber gronmet in the bottom of the tank (all your fluid will gush out so be prepared or use it all on your windshield first) Very easy to test the motor once out aswell, just get a piece of spare speaker wire or something and put one wire to ground and tap the other wire to power, youll feel the motor wanna jump out of your hands if its good. Doesnt matter which terminal gets the power wire, it will just spin backwards if you mix them. I wouldnt suggest having it on out of water for more than a few seconds though, I dont think they like it Once you pull it out

I havent bought the sensor yet, I was hoping to hear about it and if it actually worked as a drop in on 01's My local dealer also only lists the MAF 4w001 and wouldnt cross refernce anything for me or entertain the idea of another part from another nissan fitting my car, but he seemed fairly new

anybody else try this sensor recently and notice the difference?

Very nice fab and plan layout. Came out very nice looking and obviously very solid. I wouldnt want to rear-end you lol Do you not think youll get hassled for the plate being blocked?

He just posted a quote from a dealer aswell. Basically confirming they are physically different but function the same. I think Ill go ahead and buy one, but I dont get why they say its physically different but peopoe that have bought this same part, same part number, say its physically IDENTICAL "I got this answer from a nissan dealer today. "Physically,they are different as it is not the same part number.However,we have found that it will work on a Pathfinder or QX4.We haven't had any problems with the ones we have done here in the shop.Keep in mind the exact nissan replacement part is about 500.00 If you do have any problems or can't make it work it can always be returned for a refund.Thanks."

I guess that means the wires are broken further down than I hoped i they dont have power at there ends. Damnit!! I dont want to have to hack that huge factory harness apart to find the break. Thanks for your help guys, Im jealous at how easily you can read the FSM