statikuz

yeah, and just look at all those sites that pay you to take surveys, i wouldn't pay money to be a guinea pig for anything. =)

sure, you go to the search dealy, you type in "+roof +wiring" you pick no time limit, and search in all forums, and you get this one: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...hl=roof++wiring ... which isn't too bad. i'm sure with some more searching you could find some more threads =) http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3060&hl= http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2628&hl= http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=304&hl= there's some links, so now i don't have to :X, eh?

well i was trying to stay away from making it not only an oxymoron but a profane one as well but hey i did read that if the sensor decides not to work again they're going to launch away irregardless of the failure. but now i'm taking this off topic... hopefully one of our diesel owners will read and reply.

yeah, if you know autocad you're all set, but if you don't, all you have is a black screen, a command prompt, and like 100 little buttons. mechanical desktop is right up there too but only if you need the extra functionality over autocad... and i think its just called "autocad mechanical" now too. or just inventor

search! hella, kc, lightforce, piaa, pro comp... and as far as the wiring goes, you could try searching for it! maybe something like "roof rack wiring" i know you apologized first hand but really try looking around first, most of this stuff has been talked about a lot before.

i know, i was just kidding... i read "diesel" and knew i wouldn't have any helpful info so i thought i'd make a smart comment

look all the way down at the bottom of this explanation: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1680

it means one of the sensors that detects fuel level is broken and you're going to have to scrap your launch

some vehicles do have 2 cats, a main one, and a preconverter that's located right behind the manifold, it preheats exhaust gases so the main converter functions a little better.

the bumpers are totally worthless after you do a body lift unless you weld them to something, like you can read in the snazzy little body lift FAQ: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5325

magnaflow makes high flow cats too: http://www.car-sound.com/01home.asp

yeah, i'd be more inclined to leave it in there, functional or not since to me it seems like a PITA to get it out and have everything still work. but there might be a slick way to do it, i dunno...

yep, that price is about right... and you do only need one. try checking out www.oxygensensors.com, they have the Bosch one, as well as another cheaper one that's only like $75.

way to rescue this thread from the depths

just now posted this in the old tech part, maybe it'll get stickied when its more readable but for now it might help you, i wrote it up when my install was still fresh in my mind but it never made it up cuz i was lazy =D http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0entry47406

This guide is definitely a work in progress, I wrote it back when I had just barely finished my lift, and still didn't really know what I was talking about (not that that's changed any ) Some things might sound kind of stupid but hopefully they'll get edited out and fixed with better advice. Time Frame: Depending on your skill, how diligently you work on it, and how many hangups you encounter, a body lift can take anywhere from 4 hours to a few days. If at ALL possible, secure a garage that your Pathfinder can stay in for a couple of days, with enough space to stack parts and tools and whatnot around. This will make it MUCH easier than doing it in your driveway and having to pack everything up at the end of every day. Tools: You'll need to get your hands on quite a few tools in order to complete this. You won't need anything too specialized, just some typical hand tools, including the following: -a GOOD socket set. You will need 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, and a whole lot of other sockets, for loosening everything from body mounting bolts to hose clamps. Make sure you have these in different sizes, usually a 3/8" drive wrench will work for most uses, however, a 1/4" ratchet will help for tight spots, and a 1/2" wrench/bar will make breaking those body mount bolts loose a WHOLE lot easier. Of course this goes without saying, if you can get your hands on a high-torque impact or air wrench, the process will be easier. However, this is entirely unnecessary. No power tools are needed. -a floor jack. Or two. Or three. You will be, pardon the expression, doing a lot of jacking. You'll need a jack that raises pretty high in order to jack your body up enough to slide your lift blocks in [more on this later]. You'll also need assorted blocks of wood, both to place on top of your jack to protect the body, and if you have big pieces, to place under the jack [as long as it doesn't have wheels], which will get you a little more height. The Kit: Pathfinder body lifts are produced by Performance Accessories. PA has a specific application for the 90-92 Pathfinders, however, a kit for the 93-95 Pathfinders is available as well, but only from Automotive Customizers, aka "AC", at www.4x4parts.com. AC purchases, en masse, 90-92 kits from PA, opens them all up, and adds the proper body bolts, as the bolt types changed over the years. Everything else in the kits is identical, including the instructions. The kit will include, or at least mine included: -10 black reinforced nylon lift blocks -6 Grade 5 silver body mount bolts [three lines on the bolt head] -4 silver metric body mount bolts [you will only need TWO of these] -2 black metric body mount bolts -a fuel filler line extension, a short, fat, thin-walled silver pipe -a new fuel vent line, about 2' of Goodyear 1/2" black rubber hose -four gold front bumper relocation brackets -a whole lot of washers/Nylock nuts Bumper Removal: You'll need to remove the front bumper before you lift the body. The bumper bolts to mounting brackets, which pass through holes in the body and bolt to the frame. If you jack the body up with the bumper still attached, the bumper will prevent the front of the truck from raising up. First, you'll need to remove the turn signals. Two screws for each signal. You'll also need to remove the foglights, if you have them, and the light trim pieces. Disconnect all the wiring. There are two bolts per side that hold the brackets to the frame. These are accessible through holes inside the front wheel wells, as shown in the picture. Get a socket in there and remove the bolts, after you remove all four, the bumper/bracket assembly will slide out of the front of the vehicle. bumper removed from vehicle Safety Hoop Removal: Make sure you remove the safety hoop from under the driveshaft. This will cause problems if you don't move it and lift up the body. =) Here's a picture of it all gone: safety hoop removed from mounting locations Unbolting Things That Might Break: Before you go lifting things, you need to make a thorough inspection of everything that's attached to both the frame and the body. Disconnect these things from the frame, so when you lift the body up they won't cause problems. I don't have a definitive list of these locations, but that might show up in a future revision. Here's an example of something that would need to be disconnected. something that would break and cause problems Radiator Hoses: After your body lift, your radiator will effectively be 3" above your engine, putting strain on both the upper and lower radiator hoses, unless of course, you use the radiator drop-down kit. Many people choose not to drop the radiator and have had no cooling problems. If you don't use this kit, you will need to modify the upper and lower hoses in order for them to fit correctly. The upper hose will be too short, and the lower hose will be too long. Upper Hose: You can't extend the current one, obviously, so you'll need to get a new hose. You could get new flexible hose, with the correct interior diameter, and use that, or you can go to an auto parts store for a new molded hose. I managed to find one that fit pretty much perfectly at my local NAPA, but your mileage may vary. picture of new upper radiator hose Lower Hose: Your stock hose will be too long, and there will be a kink in the middle after the body lift. This is easily resolved, some people say they trim both ends of the old hose, but I was able to cut off about 3/8" or so from the radiator end and have it fit on nicely. I cut a little too much off my old hose, so I ended up going to NAPA and getting a stock lower hose to cut correctly. upper radiator hose removed While you're out shopping for new radiator hose pieces, it's generally a good idea to get some new hose clamps. You'll need four 1.5" or so hose clamps for the upper and lower radiator hoses. Shifters [Manual and Transfer Case]: Body lift kits can be installed on vehicles with both manual and automatic transmission. The automatic transmission is shifted via a cable, which is more than long enough to accomodate for the lift. The manual shift lever will also not present any problems after the lift is completed. However, on 4X4 vehicles, the transfer case shift lever will need to be modified / replaced in order to allow for the full range of shift positions: 2WD > 4HI > N > 4LO, most notably 4LO. After the body lift, the shifter bumps into part of the hard plastic shift boot, preventing reliable shifting into 4LO. There are several ways to deal with this. A. Replace the shifter with a shifter from a Nissan Hardbody Pickup. All 4x4 pickups and Pathfinders use a TX10 transfer case, so the shift levers are identical, except for the overall length. Hardbodys sat a little higher on the frame than Pathfinders did, so their shifters are longer, by about 1.5-2". I went this route, 88 sourced me a shifter from a junkyard somewhere and it went in relatively painlessly... a couple bolts loose and you can swap them straight out. Here's a short thread about this shifter swap. B. Extend the existing shifter. After removing the stock shifter, it is cut, an extension is added, and the whole lot is welded back together. This is easy if you have a welder and know how to use it. =) C. The most popular option for resolving this problem is one of two methods. First, the shifter is bent forward, usually using a long and narrow pipe slid over the lever. This bend usually allows for successful shifting. However, if not, another method is to cut out part of the shift boot and possibly the floorpan, a small notch is usually sufficient to allow the shifter full travel. Steering Shaft: Don't worry, this isn't nearly as hard as it seems. You don't need to modify your stock shaft, just coax it out a little bit to accomodate for the lift. Around the middle of your steering shaft, you will see a short rubber boot. Slide this up and WD-40 the hell out of that joint... there's a little hole in the lower section that you can spray into, soak the joint good a couple of times and that should do the trick. While you're raising the body, have someone in there with a hammer to bang on the shaft to get it to loosen... as the body rises up, the top shaft will slide out of the lower shaft. Mine slid out about a grand total of 5/16" or so. You can see the amount that it slid out in this picture... it's the silver area directly above the upper shock mount. picture of steering shaft lengthened Fuel Filler and Vent Lines: The kit includes a handful of parts to deal with these two lines. First, remove the plastic shield inside the passenger-side rear wheel well, which will reveal the two fuel tank lines. Loosen the four hose clamps, two on the filler line and two on the vent line, and remove both. It's a good idea to stuff a clean rag in the filler neck for the gas tank to avoid getting dust and whatnot in there. I trashed the plastic shield once I was done with this part since it won't really go back on correctly. Here's a picture of the fuel tank area with all the hoses removed: fuel tank The kit includes a length of 1/2" black rubber hose for the fuel vent line. For the life of me, I could not get it to fit over either neck, so I went to Checker and purchased 2' of 5/8" rubber heater hose and used that. 2' was a little long, so you'll need to trim it a bit. The kit includes two new hose clamps for this line as well. It's a good idea to install this line before the filler line, so you have a little more room to work. You are provided with a short piece of pipe and two large-diameter hose clamps in order for you to extend your fuel filler line. Cut the filler line somewhere in the middle, then slide the pipe into the newly-cut ends to extend it. It's not necessary, but you can use a dab of Vaseline [or the like] to help the pipe slide into the hose, as I had a little trouble wrenching it in there. Slide on the two hose clamps [included in the kit], and tighten them down. Here's what it looks like all put together: picture of filler assembly And installed: filler and vent lines installed Power Steering Reservoir: BEFORE LIFT: The kit directs you to remove the power steering reservoir, move it down the passenger-side fenderwell, drill new holes, and remount it lower. However, this seemed like a waste of time and effort to me, so I simply extended the two hoses from the reservoir. First you'll need to drain the power steering reservoir... there's probably lots easier ways to do this, but not knowing any better, I did it with a turkey baster sort of thing. Inside the power steering reservior neck is a tan filter, this slides out and allows you to suck out as much power steering fluid as possible. Drain the reservoir as best you can, then disconnect the hoses on the reservoir. It's a VERY good idea to put a towel or something under the area you're working in to absorb spilled fluid. That stuff cleans like no other. Here's a picture of the power steering pump with no hoses connected... as you can see I managed to get fluid all over. power steering pump disconnected Once you get the hoses disconnected from the reservoir, go ahead and remove it from the truck. This isn't necessary, but I like having as much room as possible to tool around. It's held on by 4 10mm bolts. picture of power steering reservoir removed You'll then need to remove the hoses from the power steering pump, which is located towards the front of the frame on the passenger side. Another towel is useful here, because you'll probably spill out all the fluid that was left in the hoses. Now that you have the hoses disconnected, you can lift the body without any trouble there, and reconnect them with new hoses afterwards. AFTER LIFT: You're now ready to remount the power steering reservoir and reconnect it to the power steering pump. I went down to Checker and bought 2' each of 3/8" and 5/8" rubber hose... again, it's a good idea to snag some new hose clamps while you're at the store. The 5/8" hose is for the bigger outlet/inlet, and the 3/8" for the smaller. I mounted the hoses to the pump first, then pulled them up to gauge how much I needed to cut off. Once I clamped them to the reservoir end, I was ready to bleed and refill the system. Bleeding and Refilling Power Steering System [from Chilton manual]: The Pathfinder uses standard Dexron III automatic transmission fluid in its power steering system; this can be found just about anywhere. 1. Refill the reservoir to full with new fluid. Make sure you recap it. 2. Jack up the front of the truck, so the tires clear the ground, and support it with some jackstands. 3. Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times, then back to center. 4. Open the reservoir, and fill it up; the fluid level will have dropped. 5. Repeat #3 and #4 a few times until the fluid level stops dropping after turning the wheels. Lifting The Body / Inserting Lift Blocks: This is the main part of the whole thing, but also arguably the easiest, if you've done everything right up to this point. =) The first thing you'll need to do is loosen up all of the bolts. There are ten, five per side, located as indicated in this picture. body mounting bolt locations The bolts are 14mm and can be removed with hand tools, although some of them may prove difficult, usually the two very rear bolts. I was able to remove all of the other bolts with a puny 3/8" ratchet, but had to snag a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen up the two rear ones. Your mileage may vary. Anyway, loosen up all ten bolts before you begin to jack up the body... this just makes it a whole lot easier in general, so when you jack up one side, the other side has a little play and is able to pivot a little. Time for a quick review of the bolts you'll be putting in. You will use 6 Grade 5 bolts [silver, with three lines on the heads] for the [moving from front to back] first, second, and fourth body mount locations. You will use two silver metric bolts [they have numbers on the head] for the third mount point, and two black metric bolts for the rear mounts. So, if you add the figures up, you will use ten bolts, 16 washers [two per bolt except for the metric ones], and six Nylock nuts. Sounds good. Jacking up the body should be done very slowly and very carefully. NOTICE: It is not uncommon for the frame to rise up with the body at first, but if you get up pretty high and the frame is still going up, check around, because something's holding it up! But anyway, it's relatively simple. Get a decent jack and some chunks of wood [2x4"s worked nicely]. This can become trial and error. None of the jacks that I had were tall enough to raise the body by themselves, so I had to put the jack on top of some 2x6s, jack it up a bit, slide in some jackstands, add another 2x6, jack it up some more, etc. When you jack, put a 2x4 on top of the jack to protect the body in the location you choose to jack at. I did it right between the two doors, close to one of the body mount locations, both because it was easy to do, and due to the reinforcement at that point. Putting a jack on blocks of wood to effectively make it lift higher isn't the most compliant with safety and common sense but it worked for me. Definitely don't try this if you have one of those wheely around jacks, I used big versions of the jack that comes with your Pathy, the kind with one big piston in the middle. But if you have a better one than I do you shouldn't have to mess with this. Anyway, to make a long story short, jack up the body until you have enough room to slide in the lift block between the body mounting tabs and the rubber spacers. Slide the bolts in. I had a little trouble with the rear ones again , they didn't QUITE line up, but after a hefty shove to either side, the body lined itself up. Put the nuts and washers on the bolts and thread them in, but only loosely. DON'T TIGHTEN THEM UP YET! It's important that this side be able to pivot a little when you jack up the other side of the body. Repeat for the other side. You're done. =D Clean up, and now you can do the random little things like finishing your power steering hoses, swapping in / modifying a new t-case shifter, etc. It's also time to reinstall the bumper, which is a total and complete PITA. The kit includes some little brackets that are supposed to relocate the bolt holes up higher, but they don't work worth a damn. Yours might but mine didn't, and mine is now so ghetto-rigged on there I can't even explain how I did it. =) Now might be a good time to get a nice new ARB / TJM or custom bumper and just have it welded to the frame which would be a much sturdier and more reliable idea in the long run. As someone else said, after the body lift, your bumper goes from mostly decorative to totally decorative... it's not going to save you from ANYTHING. Additional Costs: New Lower Radiator Hose; I hacked too much off my stock one = $10.99 [NAPA] New Upper Radiator Hose: Different shape to accomodate for lift = $9.49 [NAPA] 4 Radiator Hose Clamps: For new upper and lower hoses = $1.96 [NAPA] 4' 5/8" Heater Hose: For power steering and fuel vent lines = $5.28 [Checker] 2' 3/8" "Transmission Cooler Line" Hose: For power steering = $5.38 [NAPA]

alrighty, found this from way back when i did my body lift, its kinda disorganized but with as many people asking about it i suppose i can post it here and work on it so its a little more presentable, but for now its good for dredging at least some information out of... 88 et. al... if you could read this and give some input that would be super... its been a long time since i did this and i never really finished this writeup properly so i undoubtedly missed important things =D

lol yeah i don't have $8000 to spend on bragging rights

i don't think you were looking hard enough... plug these part numbers in the top search box, i think they're the right ones: DTE-464-2C - ceramic - $441 DTE-464-2 - nickel - $330 remember summit has flat rate $9 shipping too the nickel plated ones are out of stock though =(

if you call nissan, and provide them the VIN, they OUGHT to be able to tell you all about how your car left the factory... you must have just got a clueless guy when you called.

yeah, you wouldn't think they would CHARGE you for the opportunity to prototype a design, they should be happy they have the right kind of vehicle to play around with it on. sounds like a rip to me.

$8000!!!

yep, they are the only ones that make a kit with the correct bolts, no, you can't just get the kit for the earlier years and get the right bolts elsewhere unless you have some good hookups with a bolt place =)

yep, i trashed mine when i went to a cone intake, its not super necessary.

ouch, what happened?