Towncivilian

Perhaps I will, I'll decide by Monday I'm sure. I'll need to get a new Nissan badge from the junkyard though, as the pins on mine snapped off. If there isn't one at the junkyard I guess I'll silicone my broken one in or maybe buy a new one from Nissan. EDIT: Whoa hell no, new one is $27-ish. There's currently just a strip of masking tape over the holes. I reused my old weather stripping. It easily snapped back into place, and it still seems solid enough to seal properly. I guess I'll see when I wash the car on Monday.

Back in April or May of 2010 I acquired this dent: A few months ago I bought a white rear door from a 2000 Pathfinder from a junkyard for $49.25, and a couple of friends and I sanded down and painted the door: And earlier today the new door was installed with a friend's help. Unfortunately I overtightened one of the liftgate strut bolts and the head sheared off. A bolt extractor was of no help, and with the strut holding on by one screw the door's misaligned as it stands now. I also lost my spoiler since the new door didn't have the necessary exterior holes for mounting it. An unfortunate oversight on my door choice from the junkyard. (excuse the upside down third brake light in that picture ) And obviously the paint is not quite the same color, or even texture, due to the paint on the PF being 10 years older, as well as the extremely liberal use of clear coat (we went through two cans of it), and maybe we didn't get the ratios right for the reducer and finisher for the paint earlier too. Not to mention that none of us are professional painters. We also could not pull the main wiring harness through the door, so we left it hanging for now. Plus the wiper protector was applied crookedly and has bubbles in it. I should not have let my buddy put that part on. But I'm not sure whether it's worth another $28 or whatever it cost just for a straight, bubble-free wiper protector that nobody but myself will notice. So now I'm left with a misaligned door until Monday morning when I'll have the local dealer run the wiring harness properly and hopefully remove and replace the broken bolt and align the door. Might as well give them badges to put back on too.

Finished removing the last of the large rust spots on the driver door. Also had local dealer change rear differential fluid. The damn filler plug wouldn't come loose and I started deforming the plug itself, so I decided to buy new plugs and Nissan changed out the fluid and plugs for $29 with my supplied fluid (Valvoline 80W-90 gear oil, conventional). I believe the previous fill was still the factory fill!

No. Mine do (2 posts above).

You will need a tamper-resistant T20 Torx bit to remove the two Torx screws that secure the MAF sensor. Then liberally spray some MAF cleaner on the visible wires and I guess the female harness end. Be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable before disconnecting the MAF sensor.

VQ35DE doesn't have a distributor, rick88ss. The fuel filter is $14-ish for an OEM filter. Guide on changing is here. If you're running the original filter, you may want to change it anyway. Also try cleaning the MAF sensor.

Looking good, hell of a lot better than the plastic piece of crap cover! Liking those taillights too. Are you interested in selling the OEM bumper cover?

Greased the driveshaft again and got rid of some more nasty rust spots on the driver door and a small one on the rear passenger door.

Well, there's the issue of the wiring harness that I've not yet found. I've shoved my arm up around the washer fluid reservoir to feel for any taped up harnesses but was unable to find one, and I don't plan on further disassembly to locate it... Like I said, it's probably just not worth the effort and money to get this working.

My PF was leased new back in late 2000 or early 2001, and my mother primarily drove it up until fall 2009 and 109k miles. I got my license December 3rd, 2009 and have been driving it since. Put about 13k miles on it. I originally didn't like the car much, probably due to the "bronzed grey" exterior color and beige interior color, but I've grown accustomed to it. I also grew from knowing nothing about cars to doing all of my own routine maintenance. It certainly keeps me occupied with something enjoyable and interesting!

new4x4r provided me with a few pictures that explains the differences between the US and Canadian reservoir tanks. US models do not have the necessary opening to retrofit a washer fluid sensor. If you want to get this functionality in your US R50, you must replace the entire windshield washer fluid reservoir. I also do not know whether the necessary E42 harness (number likely varies based on your year) is present on US models. Here is the picture of a Canadian reservoir with sensor: US models simply have a flush plastic exterior, versus the sensor in the Canadian reservoir. I'm not willing to expend the effort and money to swap out my reservoir just for a working low washer fluid light in my dashboard, unless I happen upon a Canadian R50 at a local junkyard at some point.

Replaced the clip that holds some vacuum switch: One of the pushpins holding the plastic holder in the bracket broke off. $7.77 for a new one from Nissan.

I thought the same, but you never know! It could have been a defective bulb, or did somehow manage to blow. But then again, 180sx said his stopped working, so it must have worked at some point. My SES bulb died after probably 2 years of constantly being lit. I had just filled up my tires, started the car, no more SES light! It takes maybe 10 minutes to check the bulb anyway.

Have you checked the bulb?

You may have better luck for a response, or at least a quicker response, at Bob Is The Oil Guy, it's a heavily trafficked forum and there are many knowledgeable members there.

I thought shocks = struts, at least for the front suspension?

Pathfinder Medium Duty Front Coils Pathfinder Heavy-Medium Duty Rear Coils

Wow, you posted just about the same thing I did at the same time. Ha. Read my topic for some similar insight. By the way, shocks = struts.

What about the AC medium duty 1/2" lift coils? Those seem reasonably priced. So GR-2s are almost a unanimous decision it seems here on NPORA, what are the "preferred" rear struts? Are KYB Gas-A-Just struts decent? And do the rear struts require any replacement mounting hardware? What's the required replacement mounting hardware for the struts? Just mounts, bearings, and upper spacers?

My original suspension is quite worn out at 122k miles. I'm looking to overhaul my suspension, but I'm not looking for a lift. From some searching here it seems that almost any suspension (i.e. struts/shocks, coils, and OEM strut mounting hardware) will run $550-600 with shop labor. I'm looking for some insight on what specific parts to buy. I've read good things about KYB GR-2 struts and will most likely go with those unless someone else has another suggestion, and obviously go for OEM strut mounting hardware, but what's reasonable for coils? Car stays on pavement 95% of the time, I can't go far offroad with a 2WD, open diff, and highway tires. Car does some light towing (jetski, small u-haul trailer possibly), maybe once a year, if that, and other than the rear shocks bottoming out nothing awful about the stock stuff. Would it be feasible to reuse my original coils, or buy new OEM ones, or get something aftermarket? OEM springs seem to be $118.20 each at Courtesy Parts, are aftermarket springs cheaper and better?

From what I've read, the harshest solvent in Seafoam is naphthalene, and any top-tier gasoline should have enough detergents that would be far more effective than that stuff at cleaning any deposits. While Kreen is somewhat more expensive than Seafoam, there have been many success stories and anecdotes on BITOG, and Trav (thread starter) is a respected member and sponsor of that forum and his results seem unbiased. I will also try it at some point and report my results both here and at BITOG, but that might be in a few months, and by then you'd likely have fixed your issue. Of course, I doubt there's truly a "miracle in a can" product but this one sounds like it is damn near close.

Sounds good, I will indeed get new bearings and mounts. How many of each are there? The "lightly used" KYB GR-2s are being sold by fusion here on NPORA, in this thread. $30 + shipping for both rear shocks with a couple thousand miles vs. $76 for two new on Amazon almost seems like a no-brainer. How long do these struts generally last? EDIT: Found this post detailing all of the mounting hardware part numbers. piste says that all the mounting hardware is $300 for both sides from Courtesy; that seems quite steep to me. Courtesy recommended to him to get mounts, bearings, and upper spacers, which would be $160 for both sides, significantly more reasonable. Nobody confirmed that's all he needed yet in that thread. Would those three items be all I need for both sides?

Sometimes it's just when accelerating from a stop. Can't narrow it down to any specific condition. How much do strut mounts and bearings go for? I'm assuming OEM Nissan would be the best choice as I've read horror stories of aftermarket ones (or am I thinking of something else?).

How does your air filter look? I also had some issue with removing my fuel hoses, but twisting them while simultaneously pulling should help remove them in the future. I've read some great things about the Kreen oil additive in this thread on BITOG, you may want to read it and see if it's worth a try. It quickly cleans the engine of light to medium sludge build-up as well as varnish, and has quieted some members' lifter ticks. A quart is $16 + shipping I think from KanoLabs.com. Post a picture of your oil filler hole perhaps?