Towncivilian

Don't forget to check the fuses too, see BF-53.

Isn't the transmission's fluid capacity 5.1L according to the TSB, which equals 5.389 quarts? So you'd need to buy 6 quarts of your desired fluid. I'm assuming you have a 4WD, I don't remember exactly what you have. Ask for the MSDS for the NAPA fluid so I can find out who makes it, or post the part number or link to the fluid so I can do some research.

I've read successful anecdotes of people on BITOG putting MMO in their crankcase to quiet down lifters. Use that instead of using ATF if you feel the need to add something to your oil. The two are similar in viscosity, but MMO actually has some detergents - primarily phosphorous and mineral spirits, and a bit of boron to act as an anti-wear agent and friction reducer (see MMO's MSDS explained here by an oil tribologist). I'm not so sure it's the detergents in MMO or whatever you throw in your crankcase that helps the lifters, it's probably the resulting thinner oil mixture that helps free stuck lifters because it flows easier, unless you add something like Lucas snot which will result in a thicker oil which might just muffle the sound of lifter tick.

Someone did a study of regular vs. premium here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29847&st=0&p=565860

Wouldn't all the dust, grease, etc increase engine bay temperatures somewhat as it acts as insulation? Anyway, I used Pledge once: I did have some intermittent starting issues for a couple weeks afterwards. I went to turn the key to start, but nothing happened. Try again and it works fine. It was pretty much random. I probably got some Pledge in the alternator by accident, so be sure to cover up the battery and alternator at least.

Do you or someone you know happen to have an .edu e-mail address? You can get Amazon Prime for 6 months free which will allow you to purchase quarts of Redline MT-90 for $13.49 each with free 2-day shipping. That's probably the best you'll be able to find for a "boutique" GL-4 only fluid not available locally.

PB Blaster, then heat if necessary. Maybe drive around to heat up the plug and try removing it immediately after stopping, but be careful not to burn yourself of course. What brand of fluid did you use for the diffs and what do you plan on putting in the trans?

Technically, group 3 oils are not truly synthetic (they are hydrocracked) but can be labelled as such in the US and probably Canada. Read here. But yeah, there isn't much point in running synthetic for oil change intervals 5k or less with today's excellent API SN rated conventional oils. What good is the comparison of a conventional vs synthetic pouring? Like I said, what it looks like at ambient temperature isn't what it looks like at operating temperature. The same grade of oil will still be within 9.3 cSt and 12.5 cSt at operating temperature no matter if it's conventional or synthetic. Anywhere within range that is an 30 weight oil at operating temperature. Certainly it's possible to end up with a very light/thin 5W-30 at operating temperature towards the 9.3 cSt number, which will likely shear to a xW-20 after some miles, or end up with a near-40 weight. You'll just need to compare specific oils' product data sheets or virgin oil analyses.

GL-5 fluid offers better protection in differentials. Generally when a manufacturer specifies that the fluid is GL-4 and GL-5 compatible, they are referring to use in differentials. Additional reading: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1157073 http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1231182 http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1137238

How is 5W-30 too thin? Any xW-30 grade oil will have viscosity within a 30 grade, whether it be synthetic or conventional. All oil is too thick than necessary below operating temperature, so the thinner the oil is below that, the better - in other words, the lower the "W" number, the better for cold weather operation and for minimizing start-up wear and maximizing fuel efficiency while the engine is not at operating temperature. See this chart. I'm not saying not to run a thicker oil during the summer if desired, there's no harm in that since usually the ambient temperature is high enough that the difference between a 5W and a 10W is negligible.

Eh, why use transmission fluid in the crankcase? Read starting this thread for my thoughts about that.

The power valve screws potentially falling out with the VQ engine is also a reason for concern, but from what I've read it is not a widespread issue at all and is easy to prevent yourself by applying threadlocker. Just something to think about if there is excessive oil consumption or other strange problems. BowTied, the owner's manual states that the engine is designed to run on 91 octane. My mother probably ran 87 for the 9 years she owned it and there haven't been any issues either (and I ran 87 for a while too), but now I run 93 octane always to maximize performance. I suppose you're right in that the determining factor is primarily the engine output, and maybe the styling of pre and post facelift R50s. I think they both average around the same gas mileage, no? I squeeze about 270-290 miles before filling up (I fill up when the gas light illuminates) during the "winter" months since I don't run A/C; summer I would get 240-260 miles due to constant A/C use.

The difference between premium and regular octane gas only amounts to a few dollars per fill-up. The VQ will run on regular gas, but I strongly prefer premium as it seems sluggish on regular. Read here for more information about octane. The 2001.0 model year Pathfinders were plagued with spark plug coil pack issues. If you can, try to find a 2001 model year that has a manufacturing date of 08/00 or newer as that will be a 2001.5 revision which has revised coil packs. Do be aware of the recent strut tower housing recall for R50s as well.

Check the tail fuse anyway. Dome lights are on the room lamp fuse.

Do the parking lights, rear running lights, and other interior lights work? If not, check the tail fuse.

You need to use this specific link in order to login to the Chilton Online Library.

Washed it, cleaned the windows, removed some seat stains, wiped down some trim and the door jambs. My buddy had a jug of some Turtle Wax car soap/wax he wanted to use up, so he just dumped the whole damn jug in the bucket and we washed our vehicles. The resulting liquid was lime green and the soap never seemed to wash off our hands, but it got rid of the jug. I bought 11 64oz. jugs of Meguiar's Ultimate Wash & Wax for $3/ea at Tractor Supply Co. cause they were on clearance... 48oz. jugs retail for $10/ea. I don't think we'll be running out of car soap anytime soon.

By easily, I meant relatively to the VG33E. Guess my fingers forgot to type that word. It also took me an excessive amount of time to replace the spark plugs the only time I did it. Welcome to NPORA, drewp29!

What's the condition and level of the transmission fluid? 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on level surface and apply parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull transmission dipstick with engine idling, wipe clean, reinsert completely, and read level. It must be within the notched areas labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt. There is a technical service bulletin regarding 1-2 or 2-3 shift flare. Download it here see if the problem description applies to your vehicle. Drive to AutoZone and get the codes pulled and post them here. See here for a fuel filter replacement guide. As said above, get this MAF sensor if it needs to be replaced. The 2001-2004 Pathfinders have the VQ35DE engine, and all plugs are accessible easily. The spark plug replacement interval is 105k miles - if it hasn't been done, get it done! There's a guide here. You can obtain 6 NGK PLFR5A-11 (6240) spark plugs for $40.54 + tax at Advance Auto Parts if you order online with discount code RETMENOT123 and pick-up in store.

This description of the LED being faintly lit with the engine on happens with an LED in my Service Engine Soon spot on my R50. I have no idea why voltage is always applied to the SES bulb. Completely irrelevant to this thread, though. Here is where the fuel light is: I guess a faulty fuel gauge can affect the light if it thinks the tank is empty or something.

Check the vacuum hose for the ACSD pump.

Smells like a resistor wired to fool the IAT into thinking the ambient air is colder than it really is or something like that.

Hit 129,999:

I linked to a supposedly compatible electronic flasher for a 1995 Pathfinder on the previous page.

Looking good. Are your bumpers and fender flares black from the factory?