Towncivilian

I have no clue, I've never had any experience with ABS faults nor read of any previously. I hope they're not faulty, since they sure are expensive! Change your power steering fluid using a turkey baster. Use synthetic automatic transmission fluid. Siphon out the reservoir then refill, and repeat after a couple days of driving in between until you're through two quarts of ATF. Then siphon & fill every other oil change or so.

It probably is unrelated, but ABS systems like clean fluid (hell, what doesn't?) and brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere, resulting in a lower boiling point of the fluid and potentially causing corrosion. Change it out every 2 years, not 10!

You can download the entire FSM here: http://www.nicoclub....002_Pathfinder/ To save a copy of the FSM, right click -> Save As on every PDF, save them into a single folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate. Follow the diagnostic procedure on BR-59. How is the brake fluid level? Has the fluid ever been flushed?

See BR-44 of the factory service manual: www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/2002_Pathfinder/br.pdf Post the code(s) here and we'll help you solve them.

If there were a transmission error code, it would flash the "O/D OFF" lamp at startup. Follow these steps to properly check the transmission fluid level: 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt.

Ever changed the fuel filter?

This oil is free after rebate - be sure to get it! http://www.getg.com/ This oil is fine - it is API rated, after all. A virgin oil analysis of this oil isn't very stellar, but keep in mind a $20 VOA cannot detect every component of the oil. No doubt this oil uses some organic elements which are undetectable in a typical cheapo VOA. It has held up fairly well in a couple UOAs: 2005 Ford Exploder, 5k miles and 96 Volvo 850 Turbo 10k miles. For free after rebate, you can't beat it! I think it will easily go 5k miles minimum.

I have an aftermarket rear bumper cover, it seems to fit fine and looks more or less exactly the same as the OEM bumper cover. I also have an aftermarket driver's side fog lamp and parking lamp assembly, and driver's side tail light assembly. All look and function identical to the OEM parts. The light pattern on the parking lamp isn't exactly the same as OEM, but that's a very minor gripe.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1996_Pathfinder/el.pdf It'll be in there. Can't look up exact page on phone, sorry.

What year Pathfinder?

All doors but the driver's side open and close smoothly just as they did when new. The driver door was damaged in an accident and presumably was removed from the vehicle for repainting and dent removal. There's some rust in the inner corner and they forgot to remove a dent there, so I had to Bondo it so it wouldn't obliterate the door switch after 2 door slams. Maybe the accident damaged the door hinges as well somehow.

I wish R50s used traditional door hinges with pins & bushings. I need to replace my driver door hinges since the door sags, and they look like a pain to replace. They're expensive new (at least compared to pins & bushings), and there are no aftermarket parts available.

Welcome back! How have you maintained the transmission fluid?

Page PB-3 of the factory service manual has adjustment steps. Rotors are nearly all made in China nowadays. I'd just get the cheapest, heaviest rotors you can find really. They all rust anyways. Don't cheap out on pads. OEM or high-quality aftermarket brands are great. R51s have drum-in-hat parking brakes; the hydraulic brakes are disc brakes.

Yes, R50 pedals are stupidly soft. Even though my brakes seem fine, I'll try replacing the check valve, mine's close to 11 years old so it may be time to swap it out. Thank for the suggestion Rob!

No. I pulled that bleeding order directly from the factory service manual. Page BR-9

Corrosion or gunk on some contacts somewhere?

The clunk comes from both sides; the side I'm turning toward makes the clunk. I got a re-alignment and the steering wheel is now centered and the alignment spec sheet is closer to nominal specifications now. The shop checked out the front end and all the steering components were tight. One of the guys rode with me but I was unable to reproduce the clunk. The coil springs are properly seated and I believe the rubber strips are present.

Bearings were replaced, but I'll do what you suggested. I'm not sure about the isolators. Are these visible from the engine bay?

I got my front struts & strut mounts replaced with KYB GR-2 struts & Raybestos strut mount kits. Sometimes there is a clunk when I turn the steering wheel in either direction, generally when stopped. What could be the cause? Also, the strut mount nuts (3 on each side) and center mount nuts were not replaced; I believed the Raybestos kit included these but they did not, and just realized the old ones were used today. The FSM says these are to be replaced if removed. Are these imperative to replace? Should I have them replaced? I did have the lower strut mounting nuts replaced with new OEM ones. If I'm following the FSM correctly, it looks like the strut will need to be removed to replace the center strut mount nut (I believe the FSM calls this the "piston rod lock nut", although it is unlabeled in the exploded view). See SU-9 of the FSM for the exploded parts view. I also had an alignment done and the specs are within range, but not at nominal. My steering wheel is off center to the left by a few degrees. I will have the shop realign to nominal specifications in the FSM. If this does not correct the issue, what could be a possible cause? Is the rear alignment adjustable at all? I did not see alignment specifications for the rear suspension in the FSM. Here is a scan of the alignment spec sheet: The ranges and nominal specifications can be found on page SU-14 and 15 of the FSM. Thanks!

I believe 2001+ transmissions have a different bellhousing due to the VQ35DE engine present in those models.

I used a quart for my Pathfinder and I still had some left over. Be sure you follow the correct bleeding order: 1. Left rear brake 2. Right rear brake 3. Left front brake 4. Right front brake

I don't think this is true. I think as long as there is fuel flow through the pump, the pump will receive sufficient cooling. I can't imagine that the entire tank capacity would not be there to use without a problem.

VQ35 Pathfinders have a 21 gallon tank supposedly. My gas light comes on when I have burned through about 16 to 16.5 gallons of gas, approximately at 270 miles. I have a 2WD though, your mileage will vary.

Crazy easy to access, just remove the glove box (see here if you need a guide) then it's three screws and it slides right out. Replace the cabin filter while you're down there, and wipe down the housing before installing the blower motor. RockAuto should have a few for pretty cheap; be sure to use a 5% off discount code if you order from there. A new OEM blower motor unit is $184 online before shipping.