Towncivilian

Nope, you don't need anything special for bleeding. Just follow the bleed order. WD21s don't have LSVs, they're only on Hardbodies as you've said.

There's probably some slack in your gas pedal, adjusting might help a little. FE-3 of the FSM has the adjustment procedure. Also adjust the cruise wire at this time; the EL section of the FSM has the procedure. I'd post the exact page number but I'm on my phone at the moment. A partially restricted or clogged fuel filter can impact the ability to reach higher RPMs, so change that out if it's over two years old. As for actual modifications, I'm clueless, sorry.

Is there Advance Auto Parts near you? Mobil 1 75W-90 can be had for cheap if you order online with discount codes and pick up in store. The rear diff takes just under 3 quarts of fluid IIRC, you can get that and a fluid pump for a little under $30.

My bad, I was on my phone so I skimmed your post. You can try following the diagnostic procedure for P1145 described on page EC-480, perhaps there is an electrical flaw. Idle air volume learning described on EC-59 may help as well to fix your idle problem.

P1145 is a camshaft position sensor. I forgot which side it is. Swap the two to see if the code moves; if it does, its the sensor and it should be replaced. I had P1140 and P1145 codes for years without any ill effects except maybe some lost power and possibly contributing to my rear main seal leak in some way.

I actually already have Sylglide, three cans of brake cleaner and a drum adjuster tool. I've pulled the drums off to clean it off, but now they're squeaking since I probably rinsed all the lube off. I did buy a cheap Haynes manual too but it doesn't say how to adjust them. I'll look into doing it soon.

Yep, the adjuster wheel is covered by a rubber plug on the backing plate. I don't know the adjustment procedure though. I just let Nissan clean, lube, and adjust my rear brakes for $40. Not bad for saving time and knowing it's done correctly. You may also want to adjust your brake pedal free play if there's any slack. The adjustment procedure is in the FSM, but I haven't had luck with that either. I'll probably have Nissan do that as well, heh.

The RPM limited at 2.4k is indicative of the MAF sensor. I would replace it with the $89 MAF linked above. Just because it's not throwing a code doesn't mean it couldn't be faulty.

Did you see the exploded parts view on BR-19? Don't know if it'll help, there are no steps listed for removal.

Would a fix like this be applicable in your case? http://forums.nicoclub.com/p1444-code-and-poor-man-fix-t441648.html

Make sure your rear brakes are in adjustment and maybe replace your brake booster check valve. The rear drums are responsible for most of the pedal feel.

The bottom of this guide shows you how to clean the MAF sensor. This part is the Maxima MAF that Howie and I referred to earlier.

Clean the MAF sensor using MAF cleaner spray only. If that doesn't help try replacing it with the $89 Maxima MAF; I'll post the part number and more information later when I get home.

Driver door jamb sticker.

Drive on the highway for 20 miles if you haven't yet, it might help the cycle complete.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/post6397605.html#p6397605

Dome lights should be 3157, map lights probably BA9s.

3k mile oil changes are excessive and wasteful. Any API SN rated conventional oil can easily make it 5k miles. Somebody ran SuperTech 5W-30 for 10.2k miles in a VG30E Villager and the oil held up great - see the used oil analysis. ATF is not particularly high in detergents. It contains less than a typical quart of engine oil. I would avoid using any engine oil additives.

This is my R50's instrument cluster: http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa36/Towncivilian/led%20conversion/IMG_0645.jpg R50s use #74 bulbs in all spots, though from the WD21 clusters I've seen I believe they are larger bulbs. Possibly 168? Not sure, sorry. I think Tungsten should know, I'm pretty sure he's done an LED conversion too.

Engine coolant temperature sensor? Make sure its resistance is within spec, see EC-142 for reference values and the previous page for the harness location.

EC-235

The ECU would throw a CEL relating to a lack of power valve actuator. Swap the ECU and upper and lower intake manifolds, cap the auto trans cooler lines, and I think you'd be good for a manual swap. No guarantee though, that's just off the top of my head.

Sensor 1 is always upstream.

Heat is definitely the biggest enemy of automatic transmission fluid and power steering fluid. Once the fluid reaches >230F or so for extended periods of time, breakdown quickly occurs and your fluid won't last long. An additional cooler is a good idea even if you never tow or offroad. Transmissions generally have lousy filtering, if any. The in-pan strainer is more like a rock catcher than any real type of filter. The magnet(s) in the pan should catch a lot of the ferrous wear material, but an additional filter like an in-line Magnefine with its ~30 micron filtering media and powerful donut magnet is extremely beneficial, as is a more conventional filter base with a proper filter that filters down to something like 3 to 10 microns. Adding additional magnets any time the pan is dropped is a good idea too.

EC-40 has a chart and thorough description of the driving pattern required to complete system readiness test.