88pathoffroad

BTW, the IAT thermistor is on the 02-04 Pathy's, not the Maxima or the 01 Pathys. From info above: ^^^

Bump for original post edit: additional info above.

Merry Merry! *shares the beer*

K&N filter? $50 off an Optima battery?

For $2.99 each you can buy new 9004 connectors, $5 a spool for three different colors of wire, and two $5 relays. There's your $48 headlight wiring kit.

No such thing as a ballast resistor on a Pathfinder, sorry. Those are Fords...

555's are made by the Three-Five company. It's a Taiwan company that makes suspension parts for a lot of different distributors. That *was* my front end, and the UCA's came that way. *shrug* I got 'em used from a local guy that did an SAS on his Pathy, which now rolls on 37's. The CV's live as long as I don't mash the gas with the front end at full droop. One day I WILL figure out how to mod these damn CV's so they'll take more angle...perhaps a spacer like the Chevy truck IFS lifts use.

Fuel pumps usually just quit working rather than spottily not providing fuel. If anything, I would suspect wiring issues or the MAF sensor again. Have you run the error codes?

The reason there are holes in the frame is so you can wash it out. It should be washed out periodically to prevent rust...if you live in a salted-road area, it should also be oiled inside yearly.

Those are good tie rods.

Hey, at least they don't look like these.

Tranquilizer darts?

From NissanForums.com, posted by Puppetmaster: Possible Cheaper MAF Alternative **Disclaimer: This is based on my knowledge and experience only, I will not be held responsible for any damage, injury, or death incurred by anyone else trying this.** My buddy has a 2001 VQ35 Pathfinder and his MAF recently died. He was getting rough idling, stalling, no power, and couldn't rev past 2400 rpms because the car was in fail safe mode. This was more pronounced when the car was cold. Instead of getting the Nissan specified replacement MAF for $400-$500, I tried a MAF from a 2001 VQ30 Nissan Maxima, part number 22680-2Y001. This is a proven solution for VQ35 Maximas, so I figured it would work with the Pathfinder too since according to the FSM for both Pathfinder and Maxima, the voltage specs are identical: Idle: 1.2-1.8 V 2500 RPMs: 1.6-2.2 The sensor is direct a direct swap, as is the entire MAF tube, should you not have the Torx bits to pull out just the sensor. The Pathfinder MAF Torx bits had some security pattern while the Maxima MAF did not; I usually just use a T-20 bit to pull the sensor out. Anyway, since I couldn't get the Pathfinder sensor out, I just swapped the entire MAF tube and it was a perfect fit. I checked this with Dave Burnette of South Point Nissan in Austin TX, who is a reliable source of information and knowledge on Nissans in general, and he thinks that this should work just fine. As you probably figured, I also bought the part from him for $83 plus $15 for 2 day shipping. It would have been something like $5 for regular 3-5 day shipping. Of course, any one of you can call him and get this price, or you can pick one of these up from most dealerships for about $100-$120. If you get this on your own, make sure the part number ends in 2Y001. Anyway, the car runs fine now and seems like its back to normal. I'll update you again in a few weeks, but I'm confident this alternative solution will work out. Just thought I'd share this with you guys since it seems that blown MAFs are a common fault with these cars. Link to discussion on this MAF alternative over at maxima.org: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=348395 edit by 88: Reply to first post with additional info: I was actually looking through the 2002-2004 Pathfinder FSMs and see that the MAFs for those are identical except for an IAT thermistor, much like for the 2002+ Maximas in the link above. In other words, this little fix can be done on 2002-2004 Pathfinders as well, but you'd need to pull the IAT thermistor off the existing MAF and clip it into the 2001 Maxima MAF for there not to be a CEL. Even without the IAT, the MAF will work fine but you'll trip the IAT malfunction code.

Pro-Comps or Bilsteins.

The easier it is to unlock, the easier it will be to lose traction in an offroad situation where you really need it. I've had mine ratchet and unlock in the sand when I got high-centered before. Other than that it's worked flawlessly and I won't say a bad word about it. Richmond Gear produces the PowerTrax Lock-Right locker. It's all the same name.

Distributors for the same parts, or what? There CAN'T be 7 different products available and nobody knows about more than 3. Also, the H233B changes axle spline count after 95 and then again for different vehicles(X, Frontier, Pathfinder)...I think. The locker would have to be for the pre-96 H233B. A locker in the front of a otherwise stock Pathfinder would wreck the front end in no time. Not for the faint of heart, in other words.

Chevy 1500/2500 4WD pickups have some nice long rear shocks that fit. That's what I was using in that pic. I went back to a shorter shock because I scored some Rancho RS9000's from the junkyard to use instead. MMmmmm, adjustableness.

The stock LSD works OK mostly. It's not the best, though. A Lock-Right works great and costs about $250. Best part is you don't have to weld anything or even set up gears, it fits right in between the side gears.

Ew, dawgs. Hehehe

Really? Where at? How much do they run? I was anticipating going to a hydraulics shop and having custom ones made.

It totally depends on how you set it up. Light leafs will flex a LOT, but then you have to convert the rear axle, weld on leaf perches, fab a bunch of stuff...it's way cheaper and easier to stick with coils and just get longer shocks. Show me a leaf-sprung rear end doing something like this on a DD and you can copy their idea.

Wow! Thanks, Phil and Lee! Sweet.

They're not rebuildable.

I don't think coilovers for the rear would really be necessary. Get some beefier springs and Ranchos and it'll work fine. On the front you'll have to fab up a way to mount some, I doubt they'll fit through the stock UCA.

Probably, yeah. Most Nissan wheels fit the WD21's, Pulsar, 240SX, etc...