88pathoffroad

It's so easy with a 3" body lift it's ridiculous! Are you able to get into the wheelwell and have a look at the situation through the body gap there? That's where I get most of the access for mine. If you can, take the shield off.

You can put a belt on your PS or alternator and vice-grip it together in the middle so it's tight and won't let the crank turn. You can also use the starter-bump method to remove it, stick a breaker bar on a ratchet and brace it against the frame then tap the ignition once. The starter torque will break loose the bolt. Or do like I did, get yourself a v-belt pulley wrench from Harbor Freight Tools for $7.99 and use that.

Good to hear, man. I hope it doesn't give you any more grief!

Woop, my bad.

Another thing to check is drivetrain grounding. If the trans is not grounded well enough it will sometimes shift funny. It IS computer-controlled...and a new ground wire is easy as pie to add.

Good to know...I want to know why the O2 sensor for my Impulse is only $20!

You may have cleared the codes accidentally. If the same error code comes back up, whatever the ECU indicates is most likely the problem. Check your electrical connectors at the distributor, make sure the pins are not corroded and the connector goes together tightly. Also make sure your distributor ground wire is solid.

That's a damn good price for a Ramsey 8500. I think the T-Max is about in that range too. Looking good!

Funny, considering nothing after 96 came with the 3.0. And for $3300? Owie. You could buy two Pathys for that.

From what I hear, Ipods are just incompatible with the stock stereo. I've seen quite a few people complain about that issue with no resolution.

New O2 sensors that fit and don't require wire splicing DO cost a lot. Mine ran $139 from a dealership. Cheapest direct-fit O2 sensor I've found for mine was $89, IIRC.

How 'bout a plain ole picture?

Check the simple things first...distributor cap and rotor, plug wires and coil, air filter, fuel filter, etc.

Maybe he's not running one. 300Z's probably aren't THAT bad to steer.

Heh. For sure. It'll take a while rowing that boat...

Mine doesn't have a cat either, no emissions testing at all here. I welded a glasspack in it's place after the bolts and flanges got rusty. One drawback to hollowing out a cat is that it causes turbulence in the exhaust path which can hurt performance at lower RPM's, plus it rumbles more and might produce a bit of a resonant vibe through the floor. No biggie.

Take a look through the topics, there are so many covering lift kits I don't know where to begin. If you can't find anything good on the first page of threads, go to the next.

One stud missing usually isn't much of a problem, especially all the way at the end of the head. I'd probably just leave it alone and use the other holes to install the headers with, then see if it leaks or causes any undue problems down the line. My 2 cents.

Mmhmmmm, interesting. I've been wrong before. *shrug*

Heh heh. He used a timing belt tensioner to tension it, too. Nice touch.

Whoa, there's some good work goin' on here. I don't have details, but thought this would be a cool thing to post up for comments. http://vgpowered.informe.com/viewtopic.php?t=149

The CHTS for the VG30i is in a different location, but very close. It's in the middle of the t-belt cover on the front of the engine just to the right and below the thermostat housing. It's tough to get to. I don't know why that would prevent the engine from starting, though. When it's cold it should run in open-loop mode and not use input from the sensors until it warms up. Have you pulled your distributor cap and checked for water inside?

The 4-cylinders got smaller brakes (not 100% sure on ALL models and years) and some of the mechanical provisions that the 4-cylinder pickups got, but the V6 and TD versions should be pretty damn close.

I'd roll out a nice 3.8L GM V6 and TH200 or TH700R4 for the freeway mileage. It'd be awesome. If I had the money, that is. You can get a different carb for it, or attempt to transplant the FI components on, but it's not going to make much difference... 2.4L carbed: 103 HP @ 4800 RPM, 134 ft-lbs torque @ 2800 RPM 2.4L TBI: 106 HP @ 4800 RPM, 137 ft-lbs torque @ 2400 RPM V6 TBI: 145 HP @ 4800, 166 @ 2800 RPM The 4-cylinders respond poorly to bolt-ons, making headers, intakes and cheap mods basically worthless and a waste of money. I had a friend who put a Pacesetter header on his KA24 and he said it didn't make any difference. It was louder, that's all.

Two words... ratchet straps. Or bungie cords. lol