88pathoffroad

How opulent! Looks nice. My uncle has a penchant for putting woodgrain Grant wheels in his cars, they look very nice IMHO.

I've seen several other Pathys with that in there too. It's to prevent intake whistle or noise, I believe.

It;s leftovers from the filter removal. Rinse the area with a hose and degreaser and I bet it will stop within a few days.

It "could be" a lot of different things, no idea.

I took mine out and capped the lines. It wasn't working anyway.

FYI: IIRC in 93 they changed dash design to the rounded no-frills style, so your 92 has the final version of the square gauges. Unless it was in 94. I forget.

STS turbo kits are horribly expensive. What if I just get a used T25 at the junkyard, cobble together intake and exhaust tubing and make my own for $200?

I wouldn't assume the idle screw would fix a high idle, either. Probably a lot of carbon and gunk inside the intake and throttlebody, EGR and IAC valve that needs to be removed or cleaned out. Sounds like a project vehicle!

Apparently next month we both get a pic of our Pathys in Nissan Sport magazine. Way to go, Giancarlo93! http://www.nissanoffroad.net/messageboard/....php?topic=2344

The coolant bleeder should be in the front on top. White plastic screw in a brass adapter spliced into a rubber hose.

The stock rear flares don't interchange, the shape of the wheelwell is different on trucks. I don't think rear bumpers interchange, either.

I want a remote-mount turbo too!

Main page of PhatG20.net:

Nope. What for? They look terrible. It's an obvious imitation of a more expensive car, which is posing...at least to me. Clear tails I'd like, though. All the front end sheetmetal should swap OK. Door panels too. Some dash parts.

Basically, you can: 1. Get new springs for $100-150. 2. Get a set of airbags that go inside your current springs and inflate to help support them and keep them from compressing somewhat. $150. 3. Get some air shocks if you can find some. $100? 4. Or you can use some rubber spacers above the coil spring to give yourself another inch. I've seen the rubber spacers at auto parts stores for $10 a pair. Or take all your junk out of the back end!

It seems that the pic attachment function of this board has ceased to function. I'll try putting in a trouble ticket if I can get Jim's attention. You have one wire for low speed and one wire for high speed. What do you mean by "which relay should I use?" What kind, or how to wire one up, or what? An e-fan thermostat kit will come with a relay and instructions...

Check Ebay, I see headlights on there all the time.

Good points. If the MAF code came up and wiggling it makes it die, I'd suspect it went wacky on ya. Take 5 minutes to unscrew it and pull it out, see if both wires are intact or perhaps gummed up with some debris. The knock sensor code is very very common and that damn thing is very very difficult to replace. Most people just leave it alone unless it's causing/allowing detonation.

Plugged cats typically heat up white-hot. That'd do it. Flange leaks be damned.

I suppose it would depend on your emissions standards. Check with a testing shop. We have no emissions here, so I can't say.

Most of the time if the starter just clicks a few times it's the starter. Mine did that when it died, just started clicking but not turning over. The brushes were shot. Could be: solenoid relay and wiring, starter, battery cables corroded or loose.

Sometimes they just give up and break. I've heard quite a few complaints regarding the odometer not working. The speedo still works OK, right?

Try looking from underneath, that helps.

What exactly does "just a lift ~5" mean? Would that be a drop-frame lift or a UCA/t-bar lift?

My thoughts exactly. I would think something would have been said about the noise, too.