88pathoffroad

A tube frame will be time-intensive and expensive. A patch job is cost and time-efficient, since there's no re-engineering or rebuilding going on. You choose.

I've NEVER seen a crack in the body of any 2-door. Was there a huge bass system installed at one point?

I'd go with LED bulbs. Hold on, I'll check it out tonight and get back on it. I dunno how hard it'll be to separate the lenses from the body.

So much ire over so little subject...my my my. I have a pair of Pathy 5x7 carbon-fiber speakers installed in the dash of my van and they rock out on stock deck power from a malfunctioning Alpine CD player (display backlight died, volume knob sometimes turns volume up when you want it down, etc). You should see the mounting situation for my 6x9's in the back, I have a pair of what used to be horribly expensive ($250) Infinity 3-way speakers with completely trashed cones(left in the sunlight, the cones curled up and separated from the surrounds almost completely)...they're stuck to sheetmetal by the magnets and held up with bungee cords pointing forward. I also stuck in a cheeeeeap 200W amp and my 15" Audiobahn in the back. Nobody would ever think the old Tan Van could rock out with techno coming out the windows from the looks of it. Overall the whole thing cost me very little, looks terrible but sounds fine and the front-to-rear separation is awesome. Most importantly, it covers up the rattles of all the doors and windows when I hit bumps!

Lucky! The O2 for the VG30i's is way more expensive, I paid $135 for one a long time ago.

Could also be faulty wiring somewhere. One bent pin, or a slightly not-plugged-in-all-the-way connector may intermittently do such a thing. I couldn't say where or which it might be, but a solid go-over of all the underhood engine wiring might be a good project to check into.

I've got to do some editing and get the Ford coil idea out of people's heads...they're too short and can fall out of the sockets when offroading. They do give you a little lift, but only because they're WAY stiffer than stock coils. JGC coils work much much better and are way safer.

Where would you get a 2.5" BL, anyway?

It's an 8V regulator, actually. Here you go. http://nissan.damagedreality.com/NissanVoltRegFix.pdf

Poor contacts in the starter relay or ignition switch, shot starter, etc...no way to tell from over here.

Front will but the rears won't IIRC.

I have a broken taillight spare that I'm gonna dunk into brake fluid as soon as I get home!

Tin snips. Works every time.

I used to have a set of 520's and a set of 540's on the roof. I had to make room for the snowboard racks a few winters ago so the center 520's came off.

Sounds like your hubs are shot or put together wrong. A nice set of Warn manual hubs would fix that problem in about an hour for around $150. You can't add coils up front unless you reengineer some stuff yourself. The torsion bars ARE the front springs. On lifts: the only lift larger than 2-3" advertised lift is the 4" Trailmaster drop-down lift($700-1000). Drops front end suspension down 4" and lowers the torsion bars with a mid-frame bracket/crossmember. Other companies making lift kits are: Calmini (most spendy kit, overengineered and very strong), Superlift/Rough Country (Superlift and RC UCA's are essentially the exact same), AC (not recommended, poor fit and engineering of UCA's) and Old Man Emu(IIRC OME lifts ONLY come with new t-bars and shocks, correct me if I'm wrong). All of these are IFS lifts and are simply torsion bar crank lifts with new upper control arms. Some come with new torsion bars but they're largely unnecessary unless you add weight to the front end with a winch or winch bumper. You can also get a 2" or 3" body lift (Performance Accessories), which combines nicely with a 3" suspension lift to let you run bigger tires. The only company that sells a body lift for a 92-95 Pathy is AC in Florida. There's no such thing as lower balljoint spacers, you can get upper BJ spacers but they will ruin your upper control arms. Ask me how I know about that one. I'd ixnay the Ford coils idea. They're too short, fairly stiff and I almost had mine fall out of their sockets several times while offroading. I use modified front Jeep Grand Cherokee coils (.58" coil diameter, JGC's came with an assortment of different spring rate coils so watch out) in the rear of mine for about 3" of lift. I also added some rubber spacers I made myself for another 1.5". If you really plan on doing hardcore offroading in a Pathfinder and have the tools and skills, you might just want to consider swapping a solid axle into the front. The stock IFS system only takes so much abuse and even with heavy mods it still breaks. There's no way to get around the IFS front end deficiencies. There are only two or three places to buy gears from and they cost around $500 per axle(no install or shim kits or extras). I know it sucks but that's what there is. Lockers: you have your choice! ARB or Lock-Right. ARB runs between $800-$1000 with a compressor, without install. A Lock-Right ($250-$300, Summit Racing sells them IIRC) replaces the stock side gears inside the rear diff and still allows you to make turns, yet locks up when offroad and you hit the gas. I have the Lock-Right. It works great! Hope that helps.

US R50's only got a V6 and no, the 4-cyl won't interchange AFAIK. You'd also need a 4-cyl trans for that swap. In the US from 87-89 you could get the Z24i, but from 90-up they are all V6's.

Taillights from 87-95 Pathfinders are all the same. Nothing else fits. You could try doing them up all Oz-style and painting the turn signal section transparent red... Aside from that, the front ends are mostly the same between trucks and Pathys. Suspension, exterior body (HB's have sealed beam headlights, different grille and turn signals, though) interior trim and panels (where applicable, obviously) and electrical stuff, for the most part. The rear ends are different, from the bumpers to the axles to the gas tanks to the fenderwells, so nothing off the back of a HB will fit a Pathy unless it's a small item or trim piece.

Funny, none of those things have anything to do with the alignment. Well, I suppose if the wheel bearings were so sloppy and loose they were allowing the wheels to tip out on their own it would, but otherwise all those things just stay put. Do your CV axles have ripped or cracked boots?

Smittybilt was the only company to make tubular bumpers for Nissans, but they don't make them anymore. When newer vehicles started coming out with vinyl-covered bumpers there was no point in making them anymore.

All the Cali emissions models had a CEL. Mine is and does. Ditto on the O2, temp sensor and perhaps the cat. Has it had a tune-up of any kind? Cap and rotor, etc...

I think Ebay may be your best bet. I don't know of any online sources for pre-94 manuals of any kind. What's the conundrum? Ask away. The E-AT switch (automatic trans) changes the shift points for the trans to get you up to speed faster. Leave it off at highway speeds. The Interlock switch (manual trans) lets you start the vehicle without stepping on the clutch. Make sure it's out of gear first! Some Pathys had adjustable shocks, there's a switch for sport or touring(hard or soft) for those if so equipped. If the switch doesn't seem to do anything, the shocks are probably shot. You can simply replace them with regular shocks if you want, just tape up the wiring.

We never got carb'd Pathy or truck engines in the US. I'd tend to think the same about the tach, but I dunno.

Considering the seals are about $15 for all 3, I'd do them just to be sure. My LH cam seal was seeping oil when I did my t-belt. This is the only time you're going to be able to do them...

Good deal, thanks for letting us know!

Oilpan isn't a common leak, plus you'd have to drop the front diff to change it. Rear main is between the trans and engine, so you'd have to pull the trans/t-case to get to that. Common leaks are: valve covers, oil pressure switch next to the oil filter, and sometimes the rear main.