88pathoffroad

Yes.

Yes. As far as I know, at least.

The spindle will be so tightly attached to the stock UCA that you won't be able to remove it without burning out the bushings. It is removeable, yes, but the fit is so tight after it's been on the vehicle for so long that it's darn near impossible to remove forcefully. Burning out the bushings is the easiest way unless you have access to a professional shop press with the appropriate fittings to remove the old bushings with.

Those come with instructions... They bolt through the roof, you'll be drilling new holes in the metal to install one. Pretty straightforward.

Take it easy unless you like replacing the whole steering system once a year or so, like I've been having to...right down to the steering gearbox, which was $100 used from the junkyard and more than $475 new.

You don't need to do anything to the engine or transmission. You're just lifting the body off the frame 3". Since the radiator is attached to the body, it goes up with it. Therefore the hoses need to be changed a bit and the fan shroud needs a bit more clearance unless you use a drop-bracket kit to lower the radiator back to where it was before the body lift was installed. That's about it. No mystery, just a lot of careful work and making sure you get everything put together right.

Put a jack under the lower control arm and jack it up slightly to support the weight of the vehicle for swapping UCA's only with the t-bars still installed. There should be four small bolts for the upper balljoint on top of the stock UCA. Remove those first. Then unbolt the two large spindle mounting bolts and remove the stock UCA. Installation is the reverse of removal. There may be some thin metal shims between the spindle and frame for alignment purposes. An alignment will be necessary after you install the new UCA's. Did the Calmini UCA's come with spindles installed, or are they bare? If they don't have spindles installed, the easiest way to get them in there is to buy a new pair of spindles from the dealership and press the new bushings together with the new spindles yourself. Even easier yet... a shop can do it for you, but you'll have to pay them to do it. The other way to do it is to unbolt the stock spindles, burn the old rubber bushings out with a torch, then wrangle the spindles out of the old UCA's using lots of elbow grease so you can use them in the new UCA's. When you put the new UCA spindle bushings in, grease them liberally. If you don't they'll squeak incessantly. On the t-bars, first jack up the vehicle's front end, then loosen the rear anchors/adjusters so that there is no tension on the t-bars. It's easier to unbolt the front anchor and pull the t-bars off that way, I hear, but it's entirely possible to remove them from the rear as well, just more of a PITA. There is a c-clip holding the t-bar in on the rear anchors that will need to be removed before the bar will come out or the anchor can be removed.

Interesting. I would suspect the transmission first, then the transfer case...dunno.

Rinse it out with clean water after getting it dirty instead of leaving it and not taking care of it at all. Some engine degreaser helps remove baked-on mud.

Exhaust heat shield. Common problem.

Get a roll of generic gasket material and cut your own out using an X-acto knife and scissors. That's what I did.

Doesn't matter. Do what you want.

I about break my e-brake cables every time I go offroading. It's not the springs, it's the shock length and lack of a swaybar that get me.

I can't really think of anyone with an R50 Pathfinder running 33" tires, actually. Biggest most people go is 32's, cause they just don't fit. Not enough room. If the L&P Performance guys ever get pics up, they're making 3" and 6" lifts for R50's... http://www.lpperformance.com

Good writeup, man! My brakes have sucked since I got the Pathy, even after replacing everything...and the sqeaks from the calipers not releasing due to sticky slide pins sucks! Even if you do turn up the stereo to remove the noise from inside, everyone outside the vehicle still hears you sqeaking as you drive by, sounds terrible and is embarassing.

Do it yourself. That's the only cheap fix.

Well, it'd be unique, if nothing else. I've seen a 2-door with the back end of the top chopped and the back end turned into a pickup bed of sorts, but never a soft-top like you're describing. It'd open up a world of problems if it ever leaked...

I'd do it. As a matter of fact, I'm going to start looking for an M90 right now.

Daaaaayum. That's a BURLY magnet. Once when I was moving my subwoofer around inside my living room, I carried it past the TV and the screen changed colors and the picture warped very nicely...big magnet on the backside of that sub. Magnets are cool. Now, if they could only figure out how to make monopole magnets, we'd be getting somewhere....

That'd be an electrical connector or wire coming loose or grounding out. Check around the mass airflow sensor, the distributor and the coil first. Then check near the exhaust manifolds for anything touching those and possibly being melted or fried.

Hubs or front wheel bearings, perhaps. If the brakes are fine, then look elsewhere. It might even be one of the belts on the engine. Dunno.

Warn manual hubs replace the stock drive flanges on the front axles of your Pathfinder and make it so that you can manually lock or unlock the axles instead of having them be locked all the time, as they are in stock configuration. Older Pathfinders have automatic hubs instead of drive flanges that can be replaced with the Warn hubs to make them manually selectable for off-road use. The Warn hubs are lots stronger than the stock auto hubs.

Two: manual transmission got 4.375:1 and the auto transmission got 4.625:1. Some European Pathys got 4.8:1's, but they're unavailable in the US.

It'll physically fit. All you'll have to do is tackle how you're going to run the drivetrain after it's in...

Well, the 89 engine is a throttlebody injected engine and the 93 is a multi-port fuel injected engine, so a lot of parts swapping will be necessary, but the engine block and heads are the same, essentially.