88pathoffroad

It'd be a direct swap if you swapped all your old fuel system, ignition and emissions equipment off the old engine onto the new one. Otherwise, you'll need the ECU, maybe the tranny computer if it's an auto, and the engine wiring. They're the same engine, but with different accessories attached to them.

Firstly, check all your vaccuum lines for cracking or looseness. That sounds like a vaccuum leak to me. It could also possibly be an ignition-related issue. Maybe a single wire is loose, corroded, or not quite attached all the way? On the fog light issue, if your wiring is sound, then the 100W bulbs are probably too hot for the housing they're installed in. Go back to 55's and see how long they last?

A stock '01 Pathy has drive flanges, not hubs. That means it's spinning the front diff, axles and driveshaft all the time while you're driving. If you get manual hubs and drive with them unlocked, the axles and associated drivetrain parts won't be spinning while in motion in 2WD, thereby saving you fuel by lessened drivetrain rotation and firctional loss. I wouldn't expect much, but any little bit helps. Cleaning fuel injectors usually isn't a required procedure unless the engine runs rough or has injection problems. I'd say just go without it if you don't feel like dropping the dough on the service. If it really worked all that well, it's be common practice, not a "suggested service". They're basically selling you on the "better fuel economy and more HP", without any facts to back the claim up.

Here's a couple of pics.

It should come on when you press the gas pedal to the floor and activate the WOT switch. Other than that, I don't think I've ever seen it come on by itself while in cruise control

I always get mine at the local junkyards. Pretty much every stock add-on I didn't have to begin with I got from the junkyard. Ebay's always a good bet, too.

Mine is specifically for the 87-89 front bumper and bolts through the existing external bumper bolt holes. If the tabs on yours are too wide to fit thru the bumper slot properly, grind 'em down. 4" angle grinders are like $20 at Harbor Freight.

Yep. If the O2 sensor were indicating a lean mixture, the ECU would compensate by injecting more fuel, causing an overly rich condition and making the catalytic converter output smell like hydrogen sulfide from the unconverted hydrocarbons in the overly rich exhaust.

I've got a pic or two for y'all when I get home tomorrow. Wait and see. You want flexy? My rear tires tore the piss out of my sheetmetal in the rear AFTER I trimmed the fenders...

My wipers go across mine and it's been on there for going on three years now, no problem.

That's the swaybar endlink. New endlinks with polyurethane bushings run about $20. I'd say replace it yourself if you can find an appropriate replacement. It's not going to be a problem that damages anything else, it'll just make noise. Just so you know.

Um, there's no such thing as a passenger's side sway bar. Are you referring to a swaybar end link instead? Or something else?

Sometimes it throws an error code, sometimes it doesn't. One could be covering up the other.

Well, that's not all that high for struts, Rancho struts list for about $99 each and KYB's go for $89. Have you asked any other shops for a quote?

You can use one of these to hold the crank pulley in place while you loosen or tighten the crank bolt. I have one that has a v-belt instead of a strap belt, cause my engine has v-belt pulleys. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=91937

Mine runs about 2200-2300, tops with the converter locked up. If you have a tachometer on yours, watch it to see if it falls a little bit lower after it hits final drive and you let off the gas at cruising speed on the freeway. It should.

That sounds God-awful high for simply replacing struts. They're not THAT hard to do. I would hope that price includes the price of new struts as well, right?

Use regular wheel bearing grease.

Could also be the O2 sensor.

The EGR system commonly builds up a lot of carbon and soot inside the EGR valve and associated tubes, etc. Something's probably totally plugged up and needs to be cleaned out or replaced. On another note, if you simply unplug all the wires for the exhaust temp sensor, EGR valve and recirc sensor, then reset the ECU, it'll never throw another ECU sensor code.

Your request's too generic. Be specific.

Pacesetter headers are cheap and crappy, but work. They're made in Mexico. Broken manifold studs are always a problem, deal with them as you can, if you can personally do the work of removing them yourself, it'd save a ton over having a shop do it for you.

Measure the spring height, and the coil wire thickness. You could also weigh them. Stock Pathy springs are about 16" tall. JGC's are about half-inch taller, but have thicker coil wire and therefore weigh more. The last couple of sets of JGC springs I weighed on my bathroom scale were 16 lbs and 14 lbs. The 16 lb set had the thicker wire guage, which I think makes them heavy-duty springs. Came off a JGC Laredo.

You can't, except for the front driveshaft yoke. There are usually no grease fittings on a stock Pathfinder except for that one.

You probably need to reindex the torsion bars. They're maxed out as it sits. We can do that easy enough, but first, pressure wash the underside of that thing! About the temp guage... Did you dunk the front end of the Pathy in muddy water? If so, the radiator probably has mud in it which prevents proper cooling...clean it out. By the way, a totally stock Pathy with street tires has gone with us to BC and done just fine. I wouldn't worry about it, unless you don't trust yourself, hehehe. You just need to trim your fenders a little, then no rubbing!