88pathoffroad

o.O What brought that comment on? He looks like a regular guy to me, if that's him in the top pic.

What do you guys need pictures for? All he needs to know is that somewhere at a junkyard there's the rest of the parts he needs, but it'll cost him more than it's worth to buy it all and install it. It's about that simple. It'd be just as easy to SAS it and go big, though you'd still have to buy a t-case and a front axle. I don't know if the tranny can be bolted to the t-case when it began as a 2WD configuration. Sorry. These prices are from my local junkyard. Yes, I actually spent time looking all this up. Transfer case: $300 (and no guarantee that it comes with a shifter, usually they toss 'em when they take the vehicle apart) Front diff centersection with mounts, etc: $300 Two used C/V axles: $150 Front driveshaft: $100 Two used stock 4WD knuckles: (No price listed, but I can imagine $50 each minimum for 4WD knuckles) Two used stock auto hubs: $75 Cutting a hole in your floor for the t-case shifter: You do it, it's free... Center console to fit aforementioned hole in floor and shifter: You'd be lucky to find one, period. Broken or not, the right color or not. And I have no idea which oilpan his engine has. Did they use a different pan for the 2WD models or did they all get the 4x4 oilpan? You get the idea. I'm gonna relink the pics cause that's excessively huge, OK? Thanks.

I wouldn't plug those drain holes if I were you, unless you want your door to slosh when you shut it after it rains...and then rust from the inside out later...

Well, I did not see it stated anywhere that he was certain that is what he currently had. Either I'm blind or stupid. Either way, my input is useless. B My apologies, Precise1. I should have said that his interpretation of the code plate was correct, and that he does indeed have 4.3 gears.

He KNOWS what the ratio is. Look up. ^ ^ ^ 4.375. The cheapest route is to pull a front diff centersection and rear diff centersection from a junkyard Pathfinder with an auto tranny. It will put you back to where you should be with bigger tires. Yes, it will make a difference. No, it's still not cheap. No, it's not that easy...but it's either that or pay $500 per axle for new gears PLUS the price to install them by a professional. You decide.

Sure. That'll work.

I got new decals made today by a local place I found the other day...$20 for all these. The 3.4L ones are for my little bro's Blazer that I did the engine swap on. I think this lady is going to be the one that I'll pick to make my WD21Forums official stickers when we get a design together...

o.O WTF, you guys...

You said "Im looking for the BEST set up for a daily driven weekend worrior TRAIL DESTROYER." Heh. Install a high-pinion Dana 44 front axle with wristed radius arms, coilover shocks and a Ford 9" rear with a 3-link on coils, both with 5.11 gears. Then get some 37" TSL's, a few engine performance power-adders like headers, cams, intake and upgraded ECU. There you go. Oh wait. You said "daily driven". Dangit. Ok, get a set of Superlift UCA's, Rancho or ProComp shocks all around, a steering stabilizer, and a new steering system from L&P or Calmini. That's the next best budget-based lift setup you can get. Add a 2 or 3" body lift and you have clearance for 33's. Leave it alone and just run 32's with trimmed fenders. That's about it.

Here, leaf thru this. It's for the 94-95's, but it should be the same. http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/refg...thfinder/BR.pdf *grin*

So THAT'S what they did to them. Wierdness.

SWEET! lol

It's close enough. People won't notice. That's fine the way it is.

Yah, they used a different steel plant for base material for the older two-doors and some of the four-doors. Mine has NO rust whatsoever.

The ABS sensor is located at the front of the rear diff, right behind the driveshaft and rear u-joint. Has two wires. Check that first.

1976 Chevrolet Chevelle Laguna Type S-3. 406ci SB V8, TH350, and freeway flyer 2.73 rear gears. Still have it, in the garage under a thick layer of dust. Needs a tranny and different engine. I'm going big-block this time. I even got it in Super Chevy magazine once in the Reader's Rides section.

If it has an H233B rear diff, it has a R200A front. They didn't mix-and-match on diffs.

I don't think the frames are the same between an 87 and a 95. You'd be going from the four-door to a 2-door frame.

True. A SBC fits, but needs a LOT of custom work to make it run and drive.

Sorry, but no 720 ever came with a solid axle up front.

Yeah...deal is, they ARE more than adequate for 99% of the drivers out there. That and the price point is always going to be an attractor or detractor, depending on who buys the parts.

Hey, that's not a half-bad idea. I could make one like that and put it in there. Dunno when I'll have the time, though. My spacers just have a single bore, all the same size. I bolted the raw PE plates to the mixture heater and then cut them to fit that way so they're all the exact same.

I was under the impression that a company in NZ made one for Nissan front diffs just like the PowerTrax Lock-Right. Ah, here we are. Found it. Apparently it's not available for a Terrano or R50 Pathy, but who knows, they may be on the drawing board. They do have one available for the Patrol/Safari front axle, though. $799. http://www.genie4x4.com/diff_lockers.htm They're a simple locker, not selectable, but hey. It's a lot cheaper and just as effective.

Nah, I can't change that in the unregistered version of this software. Sorry.

Jeez, man. You paid $275 for $30 worth of bent-and-welded exhaust pipe that bolts up to your front end? Ouch.