88pathoffroad

Hey now. I can't think of any turds that tall to begin with. *snicker*

And one more for ya.

He means the front driveshaft. Here, have a pic. Sorry the skidplate's in the way, but I'm not taking off a 3/8" thick 44 lb skidplate just for pics.

All I can tell you is that if you want to offroad your Pathfinder, using IFS is the worst way to do it. It's weaker, more problem-prone, harder to align when lifted, wears out parts faster and performs more weakly than a solid axle in all areas. You'll wish you had done the solid axle later if you go with the IFS idea. I guarantee it. I'm SO sick of mine already.

Hey now, watch who you callin' wimpy with an auto transmission, bub.

True. The plate style is better than the tube-and-fin cooler style. Plus the fins won't get bent accidentally. Much sturdier setup on the plate style cooler.

It's probably your ignition coil's power transistor. Mine did the exact same thing when it started to go out. Problem is, it costs like $100. Maybe try a junkyard?

I've been wanting to upgrade the third brake LED light too. It's definitely not a brightness match for the regular taillights. If you can find a Chevy S-10 or Suburban third brake light, it'll go well up there and is a LOT brighter than the stock Nissan one. All you need is a T6 bulb for the dome light and a few 194's (I think) for the door lights if you have them. They make all colors of bulbs, available at AutoZone or Schucks. I see them all the time at auto parts stores.

The toothpick-lookin thing under my front bumper in my signature picture is a 6-foot utility pole anchor with the anchor cut off and the tip chisel-pointed(that took a while, lemme tell you). Pound that puppy into the sand until it's only sticking out about 4" and you've got an anchor. Use a large wrench or stick to twist it back and forth and it'll come out of the sand by hand when you're done winching yourself out.

Change the fluid first. Use an anti-slip additive when you refill it again. They may help quite a bit, but otherwise, it sounds like your tranny is on it's way out. Sorry. When you added the tranny cooler, I hope you bypassed the stock cooler totally. It doesn't do ANY good to run two coolers when the first one has a history of clogging up and killing trannies. You have to take the stock cooler out of the loop completely.

The tranny cooler is not separate from the radiator. It's IN the radiator.

You could put in the 4x4 tranny and t-case, then you'd have 2LO! Woohoo!

Rockauto.com has WP's for under $40 remanned, under $56 new. Just a suggestion.

20-50's pretty damn thick, man...your lifters won't like that after a while. You need thinner oil for when it starts up, so it pressurizes everything quickly enough to prevent metal-on-metal contact and wear...

A flat bed trailer would be safer and probably not cost too much more. Price-shop around, maybe. For shorter distances, it's fine to dolly-tow it with the tranny and t-case in neutral. It's not going to do anything to the drivetrain that doesn't happen every time you drive it anyway.

Mine's 5 MPH off @ 55 MPH on 33's, so I'm actually going 60 when it indicates 55. It reads slow, so go just under your speed limit if you go with the 31's. I had 31's originally. It's not that big of a change. For the 12V outlet, simply find the spot you want it, cut a hole for it, then run a single 12 gauge wire to the rear under the carpet and inside the wallpanel from either your fuse panel or the battery. Ground the outlet to the body securely and you're done. Rear locker! Rear locker!

If the cam and crank seals weren't leaking, then ah well. Too late to do much about it now.

Heh. Allright. Generally speaking, synthetic is NOW safe to use in older engines. It used to make them leak worse if they already leaked, but the formulation is different from how it used to be back then. Better?

I thought it was a carbed 0.9L from a Geo Metro. Ah well, live and learn.

It's NOT a "4WD" front end, it's a 2WD front end. The parts are just very similar or the same. It wouldn't make much sense for Nissan to make totally different suspension parts for the two versions of drivetrains. Therefore, yes, he needs ALL the 4WD parts normally found on a 4WD. With that high mileage, it's resale value is probably very low. Even so, how many people would pay much for a Pathy with 300,000 miles in 2WD form? If you really want a off-road performer that catches people's eye and can perform on demand, you'll want to find an offroad shop to strip the IFS off the front and weld in stuff to put a solid front axle in there. Lots of people have done it, and it's not as much of a guessing game as you may think. A reputable hardcore offroad shop with a fab facility should be able to do that with few problems.

And you have no center console around your shifter at all, just a shift boot. Here's what mine looks like...excuse the dirt and sand, I just got back from Sand Lake and the mountains where it was VERY dusty.

Sweet! Lookin' good!

Nah, synthetic is fine to use in older engines. I'm running M1 10-30 in mine, not a drop leaked.

Different-colored high-temp transparent plastic sheet for making stage lights shine different colors.

MrJim pulled him backwards out of it.