88pathoffroad

LPG itself is widely available in the US, many RV's, campers, boats, BBQ's etc use it in large quantities. Problem is, the availability of LPG retrofit kits in the US is low, plus the price is high, and it requires professional installation most of the time. LPG power output levels are also lower than petroleum, about 10% lower...a major detraction for most people. When it comes right down to it, it's cheaper to simply keep running the existing engine on petroleum, especially if it's on an older vehicle with low reasle value. You'll never get the cost of conversion back out of the vehicle if you sell it later, either. I'm not saying it's not a viable alternative, I'm just saying that's why it's not a big deal in the US right now.

I don't think it is, but you could try taking a pic from underneath and comparing it to a pic of a 4WD... or find one parked somewhere in a parking lot and look underneath with yours next to it.

My Red-Top has been in five different vehicles over the course of TEN YEARS and it still works fine. I can run the stereo for hours on it. It ran the Pathy home when the alternator failed at Sand Lake...I drove over 60 miles on it after a one-hour quick-charge at a gas station. Before the quick-charge, it was too dead to crank the starter. I have run this battery dead countless times, recharged it the same, and run it hard and long ever since I got it. I heartily recommend Optima batteries. Does that help?

Price in USD for the clear corners with black trim from OZEparts.com was around $65 per pair, last time I checked.

That diamond plate floormat idea is awesome! Good thinking, Killvox.

Yeah, I haven't seen a VG30 yet that actually had the crank timing mark on the oil pump. You have to line up TDC yourself and mark it with a punch. It's at about 5:30 if the crank sprocket were a clock and the mark were the minute hand...

Yes.

No. The motor will sit lower in the bay and will be harder to get to. Nope, cause the body gap is wider after a body lift and makes the engine and manifolds easier to get to from the sides. From the top, yes, it's more of a PITA.

Nope, no fuses for the speakers. I'd pull the stereo and check the wiring behind that, then pull the speakers themselves and make sure they're plugged in inside the doors.

I voted yes, but it's not totally the fault of the war. Economic problems, world problems, supply and delivery issues and lots of other things influence oil prices.

Right on. Lookin' good! If you ever take a trail in the woods at night, you'll truly appreciate those lights. Stock headlights aren't adequate at all for night-time trail driving in trees.

Well, a 5-speed from a V6 truck will go into a V6 Pathfinder, but the 4-cyl 5-speed is different.

The L&P CL comes with bolts, nuts, cotter pins and washers, that's it. Bushings are another subject altogether. Does the current CL have a lot of slop or play in it? How about the tie rods? It could just have sloppy tie rods and a good CL, you never know until you look and see for yourself.

Well... hell. I thought that was what the R50 corners looked like. Maybe it's a stock picture of some other clear corners they used instead of a pic of the actual product.

Yup, all the R51's are R&P. I've seen R&P with a SS, but it was a short-ass SS.

Nope. All the alternator does is generate AC power which is recified by a set of heavy-duty diodes to render the AC output into DC power. There's no sensor for it, no ECU feedback or anything like that. I'd take off the alternator and take it in to be tested. It sounds like it took a crap on you.

I think the problem is a hosting setting that needs to be uncovered and re-set in the forum software's info for email settings. I don't have access to that info. Sorry. Looks like it's just not gonna work for this forum.

The board software is wonky and it doesn't work, that's all. I messed with it some more today. Try again?

The third pic is of a pair of R50 Pathfinder clear corner lights. The HB's here in the US have sealed beam headlights, not the component headlight housings that the Pathfinder has. The grille and corner lights are slightly different to take up the difference in headlight shape.

I've made a few tweaks since reading this post. Try it again?

If it runs fine with the t-belt as-is, then the timing isn't the problem. Your alternator is. Check all your wiring and make sure everything's plugged in right and tight.

The idle adjustment screw is on the back side of the throttle body.

It's on the back side of the throttle body.

The bracket kit is separate, yes. It'll help your CL stay in shape, but it's not gonna make it magically able to resist damage on the trail, no.

Actually, I put them on Rami's Pathy today and the relocation brackets work halfway decent. The new Trailmaster kit comes with 3/16" thick relocation brackets. My old-ass Trailmaster kit came with 1/8" brackets. The new ones work a LOT better, and the bumper is straight and pretty sturdy. Not as sturdy as stock, but better than nothing.