88pathoffroad

Ebay's full of cone filters, most for $15 or less. I believe the inlet was 3" diameter. Why don't you just take your air cleaner box lid off, then measure the air horn it's going to be clamped on to?

I'd sue the shop for not having any kind of safety cover on the "lower" button or valve. That should be a real gimmie, it's completely unsafe, as you can see. I hope your arm works out allright, man. Do your physical therapy as much as you feel you can...it works, I promise. If you can find a good lawyer to represent you, I think you'll get paid rather well for this one. Lucky you, huh?

I know how to fix your problem! Sand the ice, man. Get some coarse sand and sprinkle away. hehe

What a crock. Bastards, anyway.

Ah, Greg-san is indeed wise. You will earn much from him. *sage nod*

Aha! 160 lbs. for the Q-tower equipped racks that clip onto your roof, not the ones that attach to your stock racks. Nice upgrade.

Stock roof racks are rated at 80 lbs. I dunno what Yak racks are rated for.

It's tougher for me to explain things like that in an IM conversation cause I have to type it all up on the spot, and I'm already tired of typing because my GF has been talking to me nonstop. When I post the info in a thread I can take my time, edit and fix stuff, and generally get it all in a row. Thank you for your patience and support!

Post fixed. You're welcome.

The shifter can be removed two ways. 1. Unbolt the shifter detent cage from the t-case from underneath, then unbolt the shifter and linkage and pop it up and out from the top with the linkage attached. 2. Unbolt the shifter cage from the t-case, then remove the small rubber boot at the base of the shifter, remove a single c-clip, then pull the shifter up and out by itself, leaving the linkage still attached to the t-case. Here, have a pic. Or two. Or six. This is Ramithepimp's Pathy. The body is lifted, and now the t-case shifter is too short. Totally unmodified in this pic. Unscrew the shift knob if possible. (They glue 'em on, so it's usually pretty tough to get off.) Remove your leather boot, then remove the metal trim ring holding the rubber boot to the floor. Slide the rubber boot up the shifter so it's out of your way. Most of the time the rubber boot will already be split and falling apart, so it comes off pretty easily. View of shifter and shift detent cage. Detent cage(RED arrow) is bolted to the t-case with two bolts. Remove it. Note the small grimy rubber boot(GREEN arrow) around the base of the shifter with a zip tie holding it on. Clip off the zip tie and slide the boot up out of the way or slit it so it will come up more easily. Remove the exposed c-clip as pictured at base of shifter while pushing down slightly to allow some movement of the clip. The shifter is spring-loaded. Keep your hand on it so it doesn't pop out and surprise you with grease. Pull shifter carefully up and out. Watch out for the spring and accompanying grease. Shifter is now in your hand and you can do whatever you want with it. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Pathy rotors are fairly thick compared to compact car rotors. Mine have been straight for 50k miles, go figure.

Just a quick question: have these been made yet, or are we waiting for a specific number before getting more made? Question two, would reflective vinyl be any more expensive or even an option? I have a reflective decal from nissanoffroad.net that's awesome looking in the dark. Plus, it's safer!

Personally, I can't believe people are still sending $$ to someone they don't know for membership to an internet Pathfinder club without any confirmation or email reply...but that's not the problem. OK! That said... MrJim started NPORA and is the man you need to talk to. I hope you can get ahold of him, cause I can't. He's going through a divorce, working long days and I don't believe he has internet access at home anymore. That's about all I know at the moment. I just run the forum. The mods are under me and can't do anything about it either. Only Jim has the access to the nissanpathfinders.com website and can add pages or change anything.

1. It will work fine, mine is an auto and I have a 3" BL. 2. Best you can buy. Most expensive you can buy, too. If you're looking to save some bucks, let us know. There are other options. 3. You'll probably have to get new/different wheels for the added tire width. 4. Be prepared to spend more on steering upgrades, stock steering will last about a week with 33x12.50's on it if you have no upgrades.

I love how people think "4WD" means all 4 tires spin every time when you pull the t-case lever. With open diffs (standard on Pathfinders without the rear LSD) and extremely low traction in 4WD, you will ALWAYS spin one front and one rear tire, usually on opposite sides. Look up how differentials work on HowStuffWorks.com for more. If the rear diff came with a LSD, you will most often get 3 tires spinning, but it's not a guarantee (depending on the condition of the LSD). On the other hand, if traction is equal to all 4 tires, it WILL spin all 4 equally, but not for long. Problem is, it's rare to get equal traction on all 4 tires at once. Another thing to consider is tire pressure. If your current tires are set at 50 psi, they will have very little grip on slippery surfaces because the tread blocks will not be able to deform to the shape of the surface you're driving on. At 20 psi, they will have much better grip. At 15, even better yet, but don't attempt any highway driving on low tires... The differences between an 88 and a 92 are so small as to be laughable, but equipment options make a lot of difference.

It's not that bad if you have a manual, you're careful, take your time and have a torque wrench to work with for reassembly. If you're missing any of those things, you might find someone that's done it before to help you out a bit.

True dat.

Reach under there and see if you can untwist it by hand, maybe.

They install a "pilot converter" on the end of the crank for an auto and a pilot bushing on the manuals. That's what the "extra pilot bearing" was. The input shaft mating sufaces for each tranny are a leeeetle bit different.

How would a hub failing affect a CV boot? Hmm. :confused: In other words...no, I don't think that'd do it. Both ends of the boot should be immobile and turn at the same rate when spinning, so it should have no tendency to twist at all.

They were asking $50 each (pull it yourself) for axles last I checked.

If the seals are leaking again, there may be something else wrong with it, perhaps the axle itself got galled a bit and has scored the seal enough to make it leak. The axle will need to be pulled again for seal replacement and inspection. The LSD does that. Don't worry.

Actually, stock thermostat temp is 155 according to my FSM for my 88. Heh. I couldn't find a 170 for mine when I replaced it.

0/1 wire is WAY overkill. 4 gauge would be a lot more manageable. You simply don't need the 0/1 for a stock 60 amp alternator.

Those will work fine.