sewebster

Heh, I guess I should admit that I forgot to torque a rocker shaft down once... that led to some loud tapping, let me tell you

I don't think you can misalign them during installation really. If you don't have them in the right place you can't tighten the rocker shaft down (at least not in any reasonable way!)

rockauto would get my vote

Pretty much, yeah

Try finding 30x34 sometime

Most obvious thing is the exhaust manifolds leaking if you haven't checked that already.

Started it up for the first time in a month (barely started). Installed the roof and ski rack. Drove it around the block to make sure it still worked. It did. Ski time tomorrow!

Thanks.

Thanks.

What exactly do you mean by "hit the end of the arm"? Do you hit the free end so that it is acting like a "lever"? I guess it isn't going to bend...

Ok, but the VG30E doesn't use torque-to-yield bolts, right? The length specs are in the FSM so you can check to see if they've stretched before you re-use them too.

Looked at it on the street. Hasn't been opened in a month. Hope it isn't moldy and I hope the battery isn't dead!

Front wheels can definitely drive in reverse. The front hubs can also lock while the front wheels are not turning. This happens to me often while I'm goofing around under the truck. Start turning the front driveshaft and a hub locks and it gets harder to turn because now you have to turn a wheel too. It's the torque applied by the shaft to the wheel that causes the hub brakes to lock up. If anything this is easier to achieve while the front wheels are NOT turning. But I wouldn't be surprised if there can be some issues with worn brake plates and too much throttle application etc etc.

My experience with ICBC has been good too. Of course you have to realize that they are an insurance company too, so the way they keep it affordable is to try not to pay claims when possible...

I'm getting more interested. Thinking of a vacuum gauge too.

He may not have comprehensive coverage, or he might not have chosen the $300/$200 deductible option.

Once you disconnect all the linkages to the lock cylinder, there is a retaining clip right up next to the outer door panel on the inside. Take that off and it will come out (to the outside). I have to admit not remembering having one of those large white-ish plastic bits though.

I recently replaced a lock and it was a bit of a pain but not really too bad...

21% oxygen

Did it just blow out for no reason or did you put a hole in it doing some extreme off-roading? Kinda makes a difference! My recollection of web research I did a while ago when I got my Duratracs was that the sidewalls were not the most robust option out there, but I mean, they should be able to hold up to some rough stuff...

The clutches always grab. They slip when there is a certain difference in torque between the two wheels (the amount is in the FSM, 200 ft-lbs or so I think). The idea here is that if one wheel loses traction, with the clutches starting to slip, then you know that you have at least that amount of torque being applied to the wheel that still has traction. I find the name "limited slip" to be a bit misleading. It can actually slip an "unlimited" amount. It's just that the friction between the clutches will keep some amount of torque applied to the wheel with traction no matter what (unless the diff is broken inside or whatever).

What do the trouble codes say?

I think sidewalls are not repairable? unfortunately

The bushing is actually inside the hole in the end of the crankshaft, if present. It is just a thin brass bushing.

don't use water. I would try to use or make some kind of tool... maybe just a bent up coat hanger? Probably wouldn't matter much, but I would get it out. You can get pumps to fill your diffs/transmission etc.