sewebster

Passenger snorkel for the really deep stuff?

Depends on the brand... it should say on the bottle.

I'm pretty sure you can "bypass" the knock sensor with an appropriate resistor setup. I think someone on here has done it, so maybe they have the details. You must be able to get to the air control without removing the engine, but maybe you have to take apart the top. Could be annoying.

What does it mean to weld a diff?

Thanks guys. I'm going away for the holidays, but when I get back I think I might pull/adjust the shims as suggested by MY1PATH. Hopefully that will solve my problems... then I'll head back and get them to re-measure to make sure it's all in spec.

Yeah, I guess you'd be crazy to bother draining coolant and pulling it and then not replacing it, just in case.

They adjusted the camber on the previous attempt. So you adjust caster with the same set of shims? Seems odd that they would tell me the alignment is perfect and then hand me a sheet that disagrees. Ugh. Usually this shop is good too. Maybe I should just suck up the hundred bucks as a loss and go somewhere else (eg. dealer) and try again. I don't really want to waste my cash, but I'm wasting a lot of time dealing with these guys now. Of course it really doesn't pull that much, so maybe I should just drive it. How bad is having your caster off? Will I wear out my (new) tires fast?

What about just testing the coolant sensor? The FSM tells you the resistance you should measure at various temps (can measure in pot of water etc.) or do you think it's best to replace?

Yeah, about 1" higher. So maybe that is it. It's not really a big pull at all, I just want to make sure that if I put up with it, I understand the reason...

I went back and they drove it around and told me that the alignment was fine, but that my aggressive tires just like to wander everywhere. Personally I think it definately goes left more than anything else. I mean, of course if the road is sloped a lot it could sometimes drift the other way. I have 31x10.5R15 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs. They are fairly agressive, but an AT tire, not some dedicated swamper or something... Here is the sheet I got last time from the machine...

Yep, did this just the other day, not that checking again is a bad idea. I have them set to 32 psi cold, and haven't done the chalk test yet, but hopefully that wouldn't cause a pull to the left if they are all inflated the same.

Thanks guys. I don't have the printout here with me, but I can post it later. So I guess I'll just go back and tell them what happened (started out fine, got worse) and ask them to do it again? Is it reasonable to keep going back till they get it right? Or at what point should I assume it is some other problem? I would assume they could identify the other problem if that was the case. My tires are brand new so hopefully not worn/broken belts. I replaced the tie rod ends to remove steering play, wheel bearings have no play and while pulling on the wheel to check for bearing play I don't get any movement, so am hoping the ball joints are good, but who knows...

I guess I should have gone to the dealer, but I've having trouble getting my truck aligned at the shop. After I pick it up it initially seems ok, but then gets worse again after driving a bit (pulls slightly to the left). I remember reading on the board somewhere about there being difficulty in getting the alignment done properly on these vehicles. I only have a 1" suspension lift... is the problem that they pick up the truck and the t-bars don't settle when they make the adjustments? Do you have to lift a vehicle to do an alignment? Looks like some of the machines I see online just have units you strap to the wheels. I guess maybe they don't want to wriggle around on the ground...

I decided to go aim my headlights (similar brightness btw) so I checked this out too. Externally, the signals and hazards work properly. Inside the car on the dash though, when you are signalling in either direction, both indicators blink. With the hazards on, NEITHER indicator blinks (presumably they should, but I'm new to Nissan). I also found out that my reverse lights aren't working. I'm guessing that this is an unrelated problem as my transmission wiring is a little bit messed up right now. Since the signals work fine I guess this is a low priority... hopefully it isn't a sign of bad things to come in my dash. I did just replace the voltage regulator with a generic 8V one. But this was a problem before too. Hmm.

Thanks guys, gives me some ideas. I need to double check (a bit hard because it doesn't always do this) but I'm pretty sure that when it's blinking both indicators on the dash that it is only blinking the actual turn signal I wanted outside. This makes it less of a real problem, but a bit more weird in terms of tracking it down maybe.

So, sometimes when I use the turn signals both the indicators on the dash flash. As if I had my hazards on. I am familiar with the fast blinking meaning that you have a bulb out, but what does this dual-flashing thing mean? Any ideas? I think one of my bulbs is on the fritz, but I can't get it out as it is rusted in at the moment... not sure if that is relevant though.

Water dripping down, somewhat contaminated by running over the dirty truck?

Is the caliper covered in brake fluid? Pads?

Well, I guess it's the steering box then.

So, in that video, you are turning the shaft that leads from the box to the steering wheel? And none of your steering components (centrelink etc.) move at all?

Well, you should likely be adjusting your timing with a timing light, not just at random... so you are finding that it runs better when advanced, because it increases the idle speed? There are a bunch of diagnostic procedures for unstable idle etc. etc. in the FSM that you could try..

The flywheel is actually in the bell housing between the transmission and the engine, but you mean the main crank pulley, right? I think the correct mark depends on the type of marks you have. On my truck, with 7 notches, the TDC mark (or 0 degrees BTDC) is the furthest to the passenger side of the car, so the last one you get to as you rotate the engine in the forward direction, which is clockwise when viewed from the front. If you don't have 7 notches, then I don't know.

I don't know if costco/sam's does auto stuff in Canada?

I just ordered some today. According to the parts dude, the earlier models used different length pins and the later ones used two identical pins. So measure before you show up so you can order the right thing. I think you could always grind down a longer pin though.

I think the LSD will still be applying torque to the non-spinning wheel... it just might not be enough to turn it. With an open diff if one wheel has no traction then the other wheel gets no torque.