sewebster

Yeah, the tensioner is on the "right" passenger side. Water pump? You can turn the engine over by hand. 27 mm socket, reach from underneath. When you line it up the arrow with the mark for TDC you will either be at #1 TDC or #4 TDC. Don't choose the wrong one, or you can blow up your muffler. I should upload some pics of that one. Usually the easiest way to tell which is which is to look at the distributor rotor. If you are at #1 TDC then the rotor will be pointing generally to the passenger side of the vehicle. This works if you are sure you put the distributor in in generally the same position you took it out (rotor wise). If not the next easiest thing I think is to remove the passenger valve cover. When at #1 TDC NOT all the lifters will be down. If they are all down then you are at #4.

There should be a set of marks on the crank pulley. I think it varies slightly. Mine (1991) has 7 notches. From the left, when looking in they are 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 degrees BTDC. You want 15. So you need to figure out your mark system. The arrow points at the marks...

72-80 ft-lbs for 1991.

For 1991, my FSM says all 4wd pathfinders had H233B rear diffs. Same with 2wd pathfinders. 4wd hardbody (truck) with 4 cyl engines had C200, 2wd hardbody with 4 cyl had H190A and 6 cyl hardbody had H233B. I think that's all the combinations. So, if 1992 is the same as 1991 you should have H233B.

Which ones are the OME springs? The $100 1.5" lift ones, or the $155 "Heavy Duty" 0.75" lift ones?

The FSM has a minimum thickness for the two brakes stacked, 15.4 mm I think. But when I stacked mine they didn't exactly nest together cleanly. The stack was "wobbly" so it was hard to measure. I think if I lined if up so that the two brakes were "parallel" I got more than the minimum, so should be good...

You should likely look to see if all the valves are closing fully to determine the extent of the damage.

If in doubt, use a bigger pry bar?

Wireless radio signal from inside the transfer case to the hubs? Actualy the mechanism in the hubs is such that when torque is applied through the driveshafts it forces the brake plates inside to lock together, engaging the hub. I don't quite understand EXACTLY how it works, but that's the idea.

Doh! I just put mine back on today and put a fair amount of grease in there...

I don't think you'll get that much out just by draining though... and the light won't come on until it is way lower than that. If the wire is not connected then it will light up the bulb whenever it happens to brush against any ground point, such as the engine... the solution is to connect the wire The bonus is you get an oil light!

The wire essentially runs from your light bulb and completes the circuit, lighting the light, by providing a connection through the sender to ground (the block) when the pressure is low.

Probably you are looking for a change in rotation drag when you adjust the bearing locknut, or take it apart. If the bearings are really toast then it should likely be obvious... you need to inspect the bearing parts to see if they are worn etc. Remember the rear bearing is behind the hub (in front of the rotor). You will likely at least need a new grease seal if you take that apart.

Something could be wrong with the bearing even if you didn't take it apart recently. Is your cv joint broken and rubbing against something? This seems kinda far fetched.

Don't r50s just spin the front driveline all the time? My front left brake is messed up at the moment and dragging... but the caliper doesn't seem particularly seized... everything moves, but when I physically remove the caliper the problem is gone. Anyway, you say you have no doubt about this, so it must be something else. I guess that leaves wheel bearings and the drivetrain. Since you have the differential in there I'm not really sure how something could only affect one side? Did you try jacking both fronts and turning the passenger side?

That's right. Those other two bolts just hold down the plate the distributor plugs into.

Remove the single bolt that holds down the distributor (the one you loosen to adjust timing, driver's side), then pull the distributor out. Maybe it's possible to get that screw with an offset screwdriver, but I've never tried. Check your timing after you reinstall the distributor (or mark it really well). I usually use a 3/8" ratchet with extension and u-joint to loosen the bolt. You'll need either a 12 mm or 14 mm socket, I don't remember which. You might have to wiggle the distributor a bunch to get it to come out... Make sure the rotor points in the same direction when you re-install it...

I think it should tell you which transmission you have on the tag in the engine compartment (passenger side, rear).

From my investigation of the manual, that spade is supposed to lead to a capacitor and then to 12V. I don't know why. But I doubt it's your problem. I have a couple connectors around there and don't know which one to plug in, but it works regardless. I would try to look into what Kingman posted above and see if you can figure out if that's all working.

I think I'm pretty much out of ideas... maybe try going through all the component troubleshooting tests (electrical stuff) in the FSM. Is that spade connector on your distributor grounded? I don't think it should be.

Can't see without an account.

oh, well switch is just as good. Turn ign to on, switch the switch so you get the 1,2,3,4,5 pattern you described, then switch it back after 3. This puts you into mode 3, which tells you the trouble codes. Turn off when you've written it down.

That isn't the trouble code, that's the mode selection menu. Right after it blinks 3 fast, turn the screw back the other way, then record what happens.

Fuel pressure? When you rotate the distributor by hand (with it removed) and ignition in on position, do the injectors click in sequence? ECU trouble codes?

I'm reasonably confident that it's BSP, but I can't remember why right now. They aren't super different, you're right, so it might work with NPT too (obviously it did for you). The gauge kit I bought came with an adapter. I'd already gone through a reasonably large hassle finding an adapter and bsp tee and everything, but then I found out it had the separate connection for the light, so all that was unnecessary.