sewebster

Rust?

Sorry, why would you put 2 stroke oil in?

Probably getting caught on the intake gasket. You could bend your telescoping pick up tool... it'd be ruined, but ya gotta get that screw out

I didn't think I damaged anything until when my cylinder filled with gas I pulled the injector again and saw the torn o-ring. Seems weird that it would happen to three though.

Uhh, I'm confusd by those fuel pressure numbers. Isn't it supposed to be 36 psi with the regulator plugged in, and 43 with it unplugged?

Should be able to just remove the carpet and probably a panel in the back of the truck.

Rock Auto has good prices. I've bought a ton from them.

I think my big metal gasket thing just had hold RTV on it so I scraped it off and reapplied. I think I had two pieces, which I "glued" together with RTV first, and then used RTV between that big gasket assembly and the transmission. But yeah, I believe it's just for water anyway. FSM says only to do it for 4wd.

Yup, that's a possibility.

Alright, thanks guys, it seems that I was thinking about it in the right way, and it's nice to know that decent manufacturers publish the info. I'm more just thinking about it right now. At the moment I don't have anywhere decent to mount a winch and don't want to spend much money doing it. I wonder if I should buy some hand operated device in case I get stuck alone some time... they seem to be rated in a similar way. Probably you can buy a half decent winch for the cost of a half decent puller, but then you need a half-decent bumper

Got it running again. Big difference compared to having a cylinder full of gas I wonder if I busted my brand new o2 sensor and cat. Still some ticking sound from the driver's side... ugh, don't want to do more valve work.

So presumably when I see a winch rated to 10000 lbs, what it means is it can exert 10000 lbs force when there is no cable on the spool, i.e. minimum spool diameter. As you pull more cable in, the force is going to go down linearly with spool radius right? So how much can you pull when you've got most of the cable wound up? Does anyone do these calculations? Can't you build a winch that sound like it has a lot of power just by using a narrow spool? I find it hard to know what kind of winch or cable puller etc. that I might want by looking at these rating numbers...

Just finished doing my carrier... here's a brief report in case it helps anyone else... The way the hinges are supposed to work is that the pin is supposed to rotate inside the bushings. The pin should be held fixed relative to the bracket that bolts to the truck by the "fins" on the shoulder of the pin. The bushings are supposed to be fixed relative to the rest of the carrier, held in place by the little locating nubs. On my truck the pin had become rusted onto the bushings, so what was happening was that the pin was rotating the in holes in the brackets. This caused those holes (especially the top one) to enlarge and the pin would rattle around inside there and make noise. I used an oxy-acetylene torch to blast out the pins. This was fast, but caused a little damage to the brackets, so I wouldn't recommend it for a perfect aesthetic look. Bashed out the old bushings with a punch. I drilled out the grease needle holes and tapped them for zerk fittings. (1/4-28 w/ #3 drill for my fittings) So for this teardrop thing... my new bushings had a large circular centre hole (of course right, the pin is round...) but the upper lip part was teardrop shaped. On the pointy part of this shape on the bottom there is a round nub. This nub seats into a hole in the tire carrier so that the bushing doesn't rotate. It tapped the new bushings in without much trouble after doing a tiny bit of cleanup work in the holes. So I had no problems here, but something must be different with this part for some people I guess. Put the pins in and then I welded the pins onto the brackets, top and bottom. This was necessary because otherwise I'd still have the same problem as before. The holes in the brackets were too big, so the pins, new or old, would still rattle around. There are other ways to solve this problem of course... Used the oxy-acetylene to weld, which was a bit of a pain, but it was available. Doesn't look so pretty, but not so bad once painted. Removing it again would be slightly more difficult, but realistically not so much different than before... AFTER welding, I installed the grease fittings and pumped it up. The fittings themselves would interfere with closing the carrier so I had to give it a pump of grease, remove the fitting, wiggle the bracket to spread the grease around, reinstall the fitting, pump again, and repeat. This is a little annoying, but realistically only took a couple of minutes. I replaced the now-burnt foam on the back of the brackets (protect the truck paint I guess) with some thin kids craft foam. It seems to not absorb much or any water. I believe this is far cheaper than the dealer foam. I figure if I grease this thing once a year (now easy using zerk fittings) that it will probably last forever.

Glad you got it figured out. Super lame that the new one was bad, but I've had this happen to me before too (not with a starter, but bunch of other stuff).

Ok, well, I could be wrong, but I think I'd call the "solenoid" you are talking about a relay. There is another bigger solenoid that actually moves the gear. Since there are (at least) these two separate components required to actually start the truck this might be adding confusion?

The solenoid just moves the starter gear into engagement with the flywheel right? Is the switch on the ground or live side? (if it's on the ground then by putting a bypass ground wire you are bypassing the switch entirely and that is why the starter is always running). Obviously most times in life we switch the live side, but, well, cars can be different. Just guessing here...

I think I bought a 7808 8V regulator for like $1 at an electronics shop... easier than a resistor...

You should machine your bumper from a single ingot of steel.

Cool

How can you balance a crank with rods and pistons on it anyway?

I don't know anything about doing the swap, but the crankshaft should be balanced by itself right? As long as all the rod/pistons you add to it are the same I think it should work. Is the balancing step you are talking about just good practice to test a crank before installation to make sure it is still balanced?

The FSM procedure involves a step where you put a large torque on the locknut in order to seat everything correctly, then you back it off. You basically need the socket if you want to do this step. When I most recently did mine (without the socket) I found that after driving a bit one side had loosened up and I had to tighten it again. I bet if I'd had the socket I wouldn't have needed to do that. It's also a bit of a pain to actually tighten the locknut at all without the socket... I mean, I was putting a screwdriver into the hole and tapping the shaft with a hammer...

Got the injectors back from the testing this morning. All had the correct flow rates, but one was out of resistance range (18 ohms, should be 10-14). I want to get this thing running again and would like to "do it right" so I just ordered one injector from the dealer. Should be in on Thursday. Thanks for the offer though Precise. It seems to me that if you have a used injector then you can get it fully cleaned and tested at a fuel injection place for not so much money. I think that if you do this then you can be pretty confident that it is in OK shape. That's probably what I would do if I got a junkyard or second hand injector.

There is a procedure in the FSM for checking the TPS voltages etc... but replacing could work too

Yeah, those were some of my concerns as well, but I don't really know much about my current injectors either, since I just bought the truck. Ideally I'd just replace them all, but the costs add up. I guess I'll see what the fuel injection place says after they ultrasonic them all etc. Maybe I'll give you a call...