sewebster

Just go install them and find out for real!

I'm talking about the bars that sit right on the roof itself and run crosswise. I removed all of them when I removed the oem rack since I have a Thule rack. Were these bars to protect the roof if you put something directly on it? Should I bother keeping them and/or the factory rack since I have a better rack? I figure the less stuff up there the better the aerodynamics, though it probably doesn't help too much...

It probably wouldn't be amazingly difficult to relocate the tire up either... just build something that bolts onto the carrier studs, then install studs into that thing for the tire to bolt onto. But probably more hassle than you want.

Dude, you're gonna blow your motor redlining it like that.

Your last line sound like some good general advice! As for how the seatbelts bolt up... it's actually a little less confidence inspiring than I'd like. Go crawl underneath there some time and check it out. Basically the seatbelts bolt through the sheet metal into a not-super-thick reinforcement plate on the back. It isn't into the frame or anything. I added a reinforcement plate overtop as well because the factory arrangement didn't seem so amazing to me, and to make up for any rust related strength loss. But the thing is that metal is strong, seatbelts are strong etc. I'm sure that whatever it looks like, this is rarely anything that causes people to get hurt. Lots of worse things going on in a crash that bad.

Before I fixed anything the seatbelt install was probably fine, but it was certainly rusty. I'm not sure whose fault a failure would be at that point... mine for not noticing and getting it fixed, or Nissan's for designing a truck that rusts? Or Canada for salting the roads? Based on my education I am highly confident that the current situation is safer than it was before I started. Is it as good as from the factory? Probably, but who knows for sure. The motor vehicle act says that you can't modify your seatbelts (if factory equipped) to make them ineffective, but doesn't say anything about not fixing them yourself. Probably I have way better evidence than most people driving rust buckets that my seatbelts are in decent shape. Anyway, it's not just seatbelts, it's brakes, steering, suspension, lights, signals... anything that could conceivably be safety related right? Thankfully we're allowed to repair these things ourselves. I think I feel better knowing that I fixed some of this stuff rather than a "certified mechanic" because, while I'm sure most out there are excellent, I've seen some shoddy work... Anyway, lots of worrying can be done in this world, I'm going to do my best and keep on truckin'

Oops, I actually didn't even see the marks in that final picture, yeah too far! Anyway, sounds like you got it licked! Nice.

You can always cut them off if there is enough extra line... even cut off and replace the whole line if necessary. Otherwise, wiggle, wiggle, wiggle...

I doubt the engine loses power, probably it would gain power from having no manifolds at all, but this is another discussion

I doubt it's off, mine don't line up either. You need to count the teeth like ANDY said. Unfortunately that means removing the lower timing cover...

When you tighten the studs it will even out the manifold some, but getting it flat is the best idea. I put my not-perfectly-flat ones back on and I think they are leaking again...

O2 sensor could still be bad even if it passes the test I think... 5 doesn't really sound like so many. I'd rather have more than that. I assume it is in 10 seconds? I believe each flash is one cycle of the O2 sensor... if it is getting "slow" then it will not cycle as many times. Getting the bare minimum of 5 isn't necessarily so great. Of course, who knows, it could be fine, but...

Presumably the heat shields are there to prevent your body from getting hot and increasing the rate of rusting. I know my exhaust has no shields and I just repaired holes in the floor in the places where the pipe gets close. But I have a WD21 and live in Canada...

In addition to rings it could be the valve stem seals if it isn't some more exotic problem.

So, the z31 engine is officially a VG30E right (unless you have the turbo version)? But clearly it isn't identical to the VG30E in most pathfinders. So, how much do they change and still call it the same thing? I guess basically here it is the intake and ECU? Maybe the cams are different? What lift do the z31 cams have?

So is the consensus really that you can get several MPG here? I have never forded deep enough that having an open intake would matter, so I guess the fuel economy could be worth it...

I guess the TBI injectors look different?

The exhaust manifold studs are M8... but it is a good idea to upgrade them to the M10x1.25 studs used in the VG33 and others because the M8 ones always break. For the y-pipe, do you mean the studs on the outlet of the exhaust manifold? I believe those are M10x1.25 on one side and M10x1.5 on the other... weird studs! Dealer should have all this stuff...

The less reliable the better... then you have to buy a new one sooner. As long as you aren't too much worse than the other guy... But a lot of this stuff IS an improvement, when its new and working...

ah. it was only showing 60 days... I dont think I had thart set before, thanks!

Probably you could also weld some bar or pipe on and use a pipe wrench

So, on each side of the truck, there are two tie-rod ends, inner (connects to the centerlink) and outer (connects to the knuckle). You need four total tie rod ends, two inner and two outer. So it kinda sounds like both the stores and the site are correct. It is the same on each side of the truck, but there are two distinct parts.

I remember at least seeing some post about cargo liners?

Another idea i've heard is to just hammer on an impact socket that is a bit too small. The lugnut will deform and you should be able to spin it off, but you likely sacrifice the socket. If you want to be dirty you can probably cut/grind the lugs off, but you will end up doing some damage to the threads. If you are really careful maybe and don't destroy things entirely then maybe you can clean them up enough for spare tire use with the appropriate die. But Nunya has the "right" solution. Good thing you never got a flat

Well, there is this thing: 2003 pathfinder oil consumption but I have no first hand experience with this engine...