Timmons

Sounds like throttle body sensor to me.

Until you get the bill next month LOL.

Is that 2003 SE a 3.5?

http://www.kenmtnac.com/WinPat9699.html Check it out.

There are many of us that bought the lift kits from this link. I prefer to use the KYB-GR2 front struts with the AC 2" coils. https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-19962004-pathfinder-c-435_437_341_8.html

Forget going off-road then HAHA.

James, It's my understanding that the CAMS you purchase from Jim Wolf Technology are not reground. Here is what they posted. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com//wolfpdf/camshaft_secrets.pdf

Has anyone installed these S1 CAMS? What kind of gain was there? http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=26

Have you heard of anyone installing those Jim Wolf S1 Performance Cams for the R50?

Ever tried one of those throttle body spacers? I'm hearing that they are total crap and just whistle. No gains. Do you notice any gains from your intake?

YO Silvapathy, post a quick vid so we can hear how loud it sounds.

Spoke with the guys at Wolf Technologies and it sounds like the S1 cams are a better way to get low to mid end torque. Don't know if I want to hear any loud engine noises from the POP charger if I'm not going to see any gains. Can someone define throttle response?

Looking at these two items and wanted to know if anyone has installed these and actually showed some kind of improvement on gas mileage or horsepower. https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/throttle-body-spacer-p-5311.html http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=364 Jim Wolfs Pop Charger and 4x4parts throttle body spacer. Thanks,

I hope these are long enough to support an SFD.

I installed these and took care of that issue right away. I'm towing a 12X6 enclosed trailer with 250'lbs on the tongue and no sag. People in the back seat with stuff in the back, no sag. https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/dual-gauge-load-control-system-p-1238.html https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/suspension-air-suspension-products-c-435_74.html

SilverPathy, do you have specs on CAD or in another format that has all the blocks, front strut spacers and rear spring spacers that I can give to my fabricator? I'm so ready to get these made and installed. Thx!!

Guys, anyone had a heat sheild rattling under their R50 while driving slowly through a partking lot? If so, which one should I be looking for that seems to be the most common problem?

Looks like we got many recommendations on what oil people prefer to use. Checking out the specs on these oils so I can make a selection. Right now I'm using Mobil 1 synthetic 10W30 and changing it every 3K miles. What oil are you using Piste?

Figured it out. The two terminals in the back of the connector attached to the red lead had signs of corrosion. Cleaned them up and everything works fine now.

Did some more tests. Any kind of electrical load like lights or turning on the car stereo will kill the engine at idle and the electrical goes totally dead. Un-hook the battery for a min and hook it back up. Car kicks over. No electrical problems when starting it up in the morning an can run anything and it won't kill the car. I noticed that after a long drive and at idle, the lights are a bit dimmer in the car which leads me to believe it's the alternator. Besides probably replacing this, any other suggestions what it might be? Could the problem be the voltage regulator?

This has been going on intermittently for sometime and i'm sick of it. Stopped at a gas station to fill up my 98 R50 got in the car and the entire electrical system was dead. Unhooked the red battery cable for about 5 min, re-attached and everything was fine again. Is there some kind of relay to protect the cars electrical that might be going dead? Anyone run into this issue before? Hate electrical issues.

Nice!! finally getting some numbers on this turbo idea. It would only make sense to get more than 250 hp out of the VG33E R50 or just go buy a VQ.