Timmons

I had something similar happen to me. It turned out to be the connection to the battery and it was intermittent because of the corrosion from several connectors that attach to the main connector on the battery. Cleaned them all up and works perfect. Other issue i had was the entire distributor went out due to a small crack on the side. The car would crank but no start. On the battery issue, no power at all, just dead.

No problem, those will work.

I drive the Honda Accord (29 MPG) for gas mileage around town during the week and then the R50 during the weekends for fun. Yeah these SUV's suck gas but so do the Jeeps. I hear it from these guys that own Jeeps all the time. They get the same gas mileage, around 15-18 around town.

Yeah, I was actually looking at those as well, very nice $$$$

Can you take a picture of your rims? Before I bought my rims, I made sure the Warn lockers fit inside the hubs first.

For you SFD guys. Checking out some new rear shocks to replace my old Rancho 9000XL adjustables. I also have a large inclosed trailer that I drag around once in awhile. Need the adjustable for that. Let me know if this seems right for a 6.5" lift. Shock Absorber, RS9000XL, Triple Tube, 32.25 in. Extended/19.375 in. Compressed Lengths, Eyelet Ends, Each Internal Design Triple-tube Adjustable Yes Gas Charged Yes Bushing Material Polyurethane Bushing Color Red Boot Included Yes Boot Color Red Extended Length (in) 32.250 in. Collapsed Length (in) 19.375 in. Body Diameter (in) 2.750 in. Upper Mount Eyelet Lower Mount Eyelet Quantity Sold individually.

Here are some more pics.

Ok, wiggled the heck out of them. Seem pretty stable. How do you check for ball joint damage? The only thing last on my list then going to the struts and strut tower bearings after that.

I purchased the WJ 4" springs for the rear and also purchased the WJ adapters that had an extra 2" of lift from the adapter itself. Check out the pics and you can see where i welded it onto the purch. I now have a total of 6.5" of lift using the AC 2" spring for the front strut and 6.5" in the rear using the WJ 4" springs and adapters. Now the Pathy doesn't have that racked up look from the rear. 3rd picture

Let's check out the poser kit. Ok, it's pretty clear that after you install the SFD as you see here, you will need to get longer shocks in the rear LOLOL. That's going to happen this weekend before I go out again.

You can see where a big rock hit the left side of the skid plate and saved my front sway bar from damage.

Fleury's, what is the part number for that Moog inner tie rod?

I actually took a sheet of card board and stenciled it out first, then cut the stencile, matched it on the mounting holes. I have a 6.5" lift on my R50 so it will be longer and at a different angle than your rig but that's how i did mine. Here it is.

Do those inner tie rods go bad to where you get bump steer or vibrations during braking when coming to a stop? Rotors and pads replaced, tires and alignment done. Outer tie rods are golden. Ever since I installed the SFD, I'm getting this vibration through the steering wheen when coming to a stop. It's worse during a hard brake to a stop. All the struts were also torqued down.

OUCH!! Good idea on welding up a larger tube on those. So it looks like you take the boot off which exposes the inner tie rod, then use a pipe wrench. Wow, thanks for sharing the DIY on this. I actually have some more welding to do this weekend on my rear sway bars and add some jeep removable sway bars in the rear. The ones i had welded up were too weak and they broke. Not going to happen this time LOL.

Has anyone changed out their inner tie rod ends on the steering rack before? How hard is it and do i need any special tools?

Yeah, they were amazed how well the R50 did out there. Alway's go with a group or plan on spending the night if you get stuck LOL.

Yeah, don't go up there alone, go with a group in case you get stuck. There are places you can't turn around on. Never been to robledo, will hit Santa Teresa from Arcraft Rd. There are a bunch of technical trails that will flex you out and there are a few hills for a quick thrill LOL.

Just preference really, there were a few Jeeps running 17" rims that were a 315/70/17 (35's) I was advised by many people not to run 35's because or half shafts and bearings can't take such large tires in the front. I'm going with 33's and call it good. If i ever decide to do an SAS, then 35's or higher is very likely.

I wouldn't take the stock R50 through some of these trails, your going to need the ground clearance or hit rocks. The SFD + the 2" springs from 4x4parts.com in the struts will give you a 6.5" lift which helps greatly on these trails. Wish I had those ARB lockers for a few of them, it was wrenching.

I did see a mod also for a steering stabilizer, have you done that one yet? Bump steering is crazy on these R50's.

It actually did pretty well and kept up with the Jeeps but I still need to change out my ranchos in the rear for longer ones since I have more flex now. Was in a climb that required for camber and couldn't get traction. Only have open diffs and no lockers. Just put it into low 4x4 and shift into 1st. Climb that rock. Im not totally experienced on the trails but going out with a group of people that are really helps. I'm running 32's. Going to put some 33's or 285's soon and that's as far as i'm going on the tires since those half shafts (CV's) won't take 35's very well from what I have been reading on the forums.

Sure is, Dona Ana Mountains, I see your from New Mexico, what city?

17" Pro Comp Extreme, flat black.

The pictures really don't show how vertical these hills really were. I will have some more pics of these crazy hills we went on that have the R50 in action once I can gather them up from our other drivers this week.