ahardb0dy

Does it make a difference if OD is on/off?

No problems at all (so far) no antivirus at the moment, Firefox

Most likely the switch for the rear door. Pull the bulb (s) for the floor lights until you figure it out instead of having to disconnect the battery every night.

If Automatic, module should be on the pass. side behind the panel just in front of the rear wheel well.

Clear coated the rear wing and the grille, they look pretty good. Going to give them a few days to dry thoroughly before installing them.

I would say either electrical contact cleaner or brake clean. Try spraying the rubber weatherstripping that the glass makes contact with ( the sides only) using a pure silicone spray. Spray it on heavy and let it run down the window tracks. I did that on mine months ago and the windows still go up and down fast.

The 87 hardbody I had has a Vin that starts with "1" and the production date was 3/87. No idea on the steel and where it came from for the trucks built in the US. We will probably never know the answer to that. My truck had no rust on the frame, It spent almost it's whole life in NY with the salt they use on the roads, mud, salt water from the beach, etc. The only rust spot I had was on the floor under the pedals and that was my mistake, as a screw I used to attach some mud flaps turned into a rusty hole.

I did that on my Sentra when it started doing the click click thing. All I did was take it apart and wipe the inside of the case and the copper, put it back together and it's been fine ever since. Come to think of it I did the same thing when my power window motor on my Front Pass door window would go down but not back up, removed the motor, removed 2 bolts, took the housing cover off, wiped it out and wiped the copper windings, put it back together, working ever since !!

Check the first letter of the Vin number, a "J" means it was made in Japan, a "1" means the US. The letter in the Vin number just before the serial number (last group of numbers in the Vin) tells where the truck was made, on my 94 it is a "W" and that stands for the Kyushu plant. The first D21 which was introduced as a 1986 1/2 were designed in California, I just checked some Vin numbers on D-21's and a few 720's on Autotrader and 4 of the 1986 models I looked at, 2 -720's and 2 D-21's had Vin numbers starting with a "J", so possibly the early 86 models were made both in Japan and the US as you said. Maybe the frames having rust issues on the Japanese made trucks has to do with the ship ride to the US????

It would be different if the starter was easy to remove/replace, of course no one wants to have to replace their starter, lifetime warranty or not every year (or less), but I would consider a reman from a local store if the starter was easier to get too. No matter how easy people say it may be for them to replace the starter in the D21 or WD21 it really isn't that quick to do, yes a body lift makes it easier but if you don't have one it takes longer., In my hardbody with the 3" body lift the first time I replaced the starter it took about 10 minutes to unbolt and disconnect the wires and about 2 hours to actually get the thing out, as I said above I had to replace it 3 times in a weeks time so by the third time I could do it in less than a half hour. If it was the starter in my Sentra I would get the cheapest one I could find as that one can be removed in about 5 minutes. So if any of you have had good luck with starters where ever you got them from that's good, my info and opinions are based on what I went thru and my suggestions on what to get are based off of them.

Nice find !

Guess I got real lucky when I found my Warn hubs at the junkyard for I think I paid $14 each, than Warn sent me the parts I needed to rebuild them for free !! That's why I will always recommend Warn. When you tell a company you aren't the original purchaser and they still send rebuild parts out for free they are a good company !!!! Also be careful when you grease the hubs automatic or manual too much grease is not good, just a light coating works fine. If you have a junkyard near you I'm sure you could pick up another set of auto hubs easily, but they may be in the same condition as yours.

Still working on painting the hardbody grille, I have a few coats of Ace Hardware gloss black on it now, looks decent, still have clear to spray. Removed the rear wing and painted it gloss black, have to clear it as well.

Me neither until I searched for it yesterday. I got mine thru my old job at cost and I think the MSRP on it was $82.

No problem, I have had the Pure Energy starter installed since - 07-21-12. also in the process of re-doing the starter I replaced the positive battery cable from the batt. terminal to the starter solenoid with 4 gauge car audio power cable, I added a second 4 gauge ground wire from one of the starter bolts to the frame, I re-did the wires on the battery terminal (positive) as the stock connector was broke from when I got the truck, and recently I replaced both battery terminals to Military style, see thread here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35772-military-style-battery-terminals/ I am still using the starter relay mod also. I would not think you would have any problems with an OEM starter, I believe they only sell brand new one's, you would have to double check with Rob on that though. Most of the time the OEM starters last for many years so if you got one it would probably last longer than the truck.

Well I just looked and I see you have Advance auto Parts near you, Advance is showing a Bosch brand new starter for $173.99 but it says ship to home so probably not available in the store but at least if you ordered one from them you could probably return it to the store if you had to. You could get a OEM Nissan one from a local dealer or a dealer online (maybe through Rob here on the forum) For aprox $199, Yes ordering something online is usually cheaper and if you do have a problem it makes returning/replacing a part harder but that would be a decision you would have to make, ordering from Rockauto you will have a better selection, I checked on Oreily Auto Parts and they show 2 starters available for a 95 Pathfinder, one reman, one new, no price listed for the new one says to call. On rockauto they are listing 8 starters, 5 reman's, 2 new and one that doesn't say, prices start at $68.79 up to $156.79 plus shipping. I would recommend again the Pure Energy new starter from Rockauto for $92.79 plus the shipping. I will never buy a local Auto parts reman starter too many problems. Here is a quick history I had with reman starters, way back when I had my 87 hardbody, starter went, bought one from Foreign auto parts store my friend owns, put it in, it lasted THREE DAYS !!!, took it back out, exchanged it for another one LASTED ONE WEEK !!!! Finally he told me he could sell me a Beck Arnley starter for $50 more, I told him he should have told me that from the start !! The Beck Arnley starter was in my hardbody years after with no issues until I got rid of the hardbody. With my 94 pathfinder, starter started acting up, did the starter relay mod and it was fine for another year, finally took a crap, took it out and had it and the battery tested at Advance both tested fine, put it back in, started acting up again, bought a starter from Advance, reman unit, nothing but problems, it would start fine leaving my house, I would drive somewhere than it wouldn't start, had to tap on the side to get it to start. Pulled it out again, took it to Advance had it tested, it tested fine, they said they couldn't exchange it because it tested fine, called the Corporate office, manager calls me and says they will take it back, I tell him I don't want another of the same that I want a new Bosch, they couldn't get me the Bosch so they gave me my money back for the starter plus the core charge. Ordered one from a auto parts company online, was taking forever to arrive, called that company, they tell me the Bosch is not available from anywhere, they ask if I will take another starter, supposedly new from a different company, I say OK, starter arrives and it is a reman !!! I call them and tell them it is not what I thought I was going to get, they say I can send it back, I call Rockauto, they do not have the Bosch either but have the Pure Energy starter and it is new, so I ordered that one, returned the other one and have the Pure Energy starter installed still and is so far working perfectly!! So no local or online remans for me EVER AGAIN !!!!

This is the one I have, 4" x 30',: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Keeper-30-x-4-x-40-000-lbs-Vehicle-Recovery-Strap-02943/202862247#.UiJ0TX8klVI

I have a nice 4" wide strap, yes it's over kill but it was cheap (working in a 4x4 shop at the time), couldn't afford it now LOL

the distributor is under the plastic cover ( if yours has one) front of the intake manifold, see my pic below:

The PF I have now, when my buddy still owned it it shut off while he was driving to work, turned out the timing belt tensioner bolt broke, may have been what you heard, or could be the belt as was suggested already, I would second looking at the distributor rotor when cranking the engine over, if you want to be real safe try turning it over by hand with a socket on the crank bolt.

I prefer Bosch

I went thru hell when I replaced my starter, I highly recommend staying away from local auto parts remanufactured units, I could care less if the thing has a lifetime warranty, if it fails after 3 days ( had that happen to me with my hardbody) and I have to go through the hell of replacing one again they can keep the reman starters. I was trying to find a new one from Bosch as I heard they were very good but no one had one in stock, so I ended up getting a new one made by Pure Energy from Rockauto, been perfect so far. Rockauto is showing they have 2 of the Pure Energy ones left in stock $92.79 no core charge with out the 5% discount.

I haven't towed or pulled anyone out yet with my PF but did it all the time with my old hardbody, never had a problem, except the suburban on 36's that got high centered trying to go over a hill, as soon as I pulled the truck off the hill and started to drive down the road I knew something was wrong, the front tire was making a weird noise, turned out when I pulled him and the front of my truck raised up it bent the crap out of the idler arm !!

www.oem-surplus.com has a couple throttle body, throttle chamber assemblies for the 86-87 VG30 trucks available still for $75, would probably work on your 88 if you happen to need that part of the TB.