ahardb0dy

Took the drivers side window switch apart today, problem I'm having is the pass. rear window won't do anything either from the drivers front switch or the pass. door switch, well that's not entirely true it did roll down one time from the drivers front switch but wouldn't roll back up, I had to pull the door panel and run power to the motor directly to get the window back up. Anyway took the drivers front switch apart today and armed with my test light found that I have power going thru the contacts for the pass. rear window ( in the drivers front switch I mean) but still don't get a response from the window. Don't think it's likely there is a break in the wire but in the FSM it shows a circuit breaker before each power window motor, does anyone know if this breaker trips if it is the auto resettable type? or does it have to be replaced?? At the junkyard the drivers front switch must be just as popular as the glove box latch cause I haven't seen either one yet. I know there is a power window amp inside the pass. side kick panel but haven't taken that out yet to take it apart. Anyone have any ideas before I need to find a new switch? Thanks all.

really like that 2 tone one, mine is black

that reminds me of what the guys on the NICO site told me when I had to pull the intake off on the Infiniti Q45 we used to have to replace the knock sensors, they told me don't worry about trying to save all the hoses just cut them all off and get new one's! yeah at what would have cost about $200!! I pulled the intake off without cutting any of them, did end up cracking the plenum putting it back on, a $100 mistake but boy did it run after new knock sensors and a fuel pump!!! almost Corvette like!!

cleaned the wheels with a toothbrush some wheel cleaner that was lying around and re-painted the center caps, I like posting pictures,LOL before: after: yes those are 2 wheel drive fenders on it in the first pic, my buddy took the 4 wd fenders off he was going to use them on one of his low riders until I told him to put them back before I would buy the truck, and that is another pathfinder in the background, a 93 that he bought when the engine took a crap in the now mine 94

always a good idea

was going to suggest going to tirerack.com, if you enter your truck info it will let you see what different wheels and/or sizes would look like on your truck, they even have your model and color

the only wing I actually like is a BMW style like this one, but with just getting my 94 pathfinder it's not in the budget as all extra funds are going into the pathfinder: it's a good little car (it's a Nissan after all !!), I drive fast(for a 90HP sentra, lol), beat the hell out of it, the short throw shifter, upgraded sway bars with urethane bushings, (hell it didn't even have a front sway bar when I bought it that's how basic it was), plus 2 upgrade on the wheels and tires, still return 31 MPG and it has 218K miles on the original engine!! Just have to install the lowering coils I bought for it 2 years ago and get some new struts. I got a K&N Apollo cold air filter kit for it a few x-mas's ago but haven't installed yet, it might find it's way on to the pathfinder.

WELCOME BACK !!

I've noticed when ever I use premium it seems I get less MPG for what ever reason??

re-indexed my torsion bars as the previous owner's neighbor took them out when they swapped the engine and transmission, guess the neighbor had no clue as to what he was doing as one side had 1/2" of clearance between the UCA and the bumpstop and on the other side the UCA was sitting on the bumpstop, check out my pics below for the before and after, this was how it looked before I bought it, notice even without the flare there is like no clearance between the tire and fender: this is after re-indexing the bars, notice now the flare is on and how much clearance there is: I think I raised the front a little too high but it should settle anyway

thanks, from all the reviews of people using them in their cars I think they should work. Appreciate it.

here's a set of brand new 35 MT/r's for sale still have the stickers on them http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1701609864.html oops just noticed they have a different tread, oh well, I tried

Took the adjustable shock switch apart today and the bulb is no good, it is easily replaced but can't find a source for it. Even in Nissan FAST it just shows the switch itself, don't want to spend $40 on a switch when all it needs is the bulb. The bulb that is in the AC switch looks the same but has a different base, but the bulb itself can be removed from the base and put in the other base. So anyone know where I could find these bulbs? Looking for sources other than junkyard or the dealer. Thanks

as long as the AC clutch is not engaged it shouldn't effect anything if the compressor takes a crap, usually when you turn on the AC if the clutch doesn't engage it means the freon is low, one way to determine if it is low is to locate the low pressure switch on or near the accumulator/drier, unplug the connector and use a jumper between the 2 pins in the plug, if the clutch engages it would indicate the freon is low. The compressor making noise, first you need to verify if it is the compressor itself or it may be an idler pulley if your truck has one. On my 90 sentra I was hearing a noise and pinpointed it down to the compressor, took off the belt that just runs the compressor and the noise stopped, my car does have the idler or tensioner pulley but noise was not coming from it.

here's what my local junkyard shows in their inventory:

according to the Nissan FAST program and decoding the option packages that were available after 92, they all list General tires, my 87 Pickup had Firestone ATX's which looked like a copy of the first generation BFG all terrain

X3

I would also suggest on any vehicle that is as old as these to replace all the vacuum lines whether they appear good or not

I looked in the FSM for a 94 that I have ( don't have one for a 92) but I think you can download it from this site. anyway in 94 FSM, the EC section on page 240 it takes you thru the steps to troubleshoot the EGR function when code 32 is present

list of all spyderco models : http://www.spydie.nl/ spyderco finally came out with an auto, although you won't find it on their regular website it's kind of hush hush to us civilians,lol but you can find it here: http://www.bladehq.com/item--Spyderco-Embassy--3062

cool deal

this happened to me also on the 94 I just bought, first thing I would suggest to check is to pull all the spark plugs, when I pulled mine the first 5 looked ok but the 6th one was definitely hit, I couldn't understand how the plug would have gotten hit as I didn't think the piston could go up that high, it wasn't until I spoke to my mechanic who told me the piston hit the valve which hit the plug, makes sense. Anyway, I would look at all the plugs, if you find one hit you bent a valve than follow the previous advice.

just went thru this with my 94 I just bought, on mine the water was coming in at the base of the windshield, where the trim sits on the glass, I could see an area where there was a gap, put some silicone in there and checked it 2 days later with the hose and also 2 times after heavy rain and no more water. I was also able to see exactly where the water was coming into the cab from and have pictures which I will post below, good luck. this u shaped bracket is on the inner fender and the plastic part screwed to it is the AC heater box

think that was about when they were first introduced, I know they were priced very expensive at the time

they also list fiberglass fenders for the 84-95 hardbody for $240 link here http://www.kartek.com/Specials/FiberglassNissan.html that's all I found for the hardbody or pathfinder, rest of the stuff is frontier,xterra or titan