silverton

Whatever it is, it sounds scary. I have had my driver seat in and out a couple times and haven't any issues like this. P.S. Gremlins...?

Due to rarity, I would try my damndest to not modify either grill in any way.

If you have to pass any kind of inspection where they make sure your vehicle works like it did from the factory, this modification will make you automatically fail. Legally (read: federal regulation BS), your fog lights should not operate unless the headlights are turned on as well, and foglights are to turn off when the high beams are turned on. But, by all means, please do this. All you need to do is tap a power wire from your parking lights, and have it trigger the relay to turn the fog lights on. Or, to have them act independently from everything else, find the relay, and run a wire from the trigger pin, to a constant power source, aka the battery. Then you would have total control of the fog lights from the switch inside the truck. Hope this helps!

I vote you do the heavy duty auto swap...

I did notice the bars are marked L and R on one end. When installing new bars, does it not matter how they go in and just stick them in any ole way, but then when they need to be re-indexed is when they should be marked? I know my truck has both nuts, as when I got it I had to crank them to the max cause it looked like this:

I may have missed it. But is there any particular way to install brand new bars? or does it not matter?

I'm working til 9 tomorrow, and that's a bit of a drive for me that late at night...

Touche good sir, touche. BUT, i only air down when I go to wheeling spots, for a quick romp in the mud, i usually just leave the tires alone.

Yeah, but I'm lazy. That still means getting out. No, but really, as soon as I find a set of 4x4 HB hubs, I'm going to swap them out. Also, slightly off topic, on ebay there are 'Rugged Rock' manual hubs, I can't remember if they are 150 shipped, or 150+shipping, would be a good deal if they are better than mile markers

I have gotten stuck plenty of times in 2wd, put the TC into 4hi or 4lo and just feathered the throttle and pulled right through. my hubs don't make any noise when engaging, just a soft click when disengaging, have to REALLY listen for it. Auto hubs are nice in the fact that you don't have to get out into the nasty mud/muck/whatever you're stuck in. Just shift the TC and GOOOOO

You have a rear door light? My hatch just lights up the door ajar light. drove me nuts one day when I noticed it was on, opened all four doors and shut them, with no change on the light. Figured the hatch would have its own like like the tire carrier.

With 31s, my last fuel up was 15.6mpg, and that was with a wheeling trip. Today, I just got back home from another wheeling trip, with a lot of motor idling, 150'ish miles and it just dropped being half tank. With the old 235/75's I was getting 16-17mpg. 235/75's equate out to 29x9.25 on 15 inch rims. So I have noticed next to no loss of mileage, and this is on an automatic.

Use this: http://www.dakota-truck.net/TIRECALC/tirecalc.html 95's came with two stock tires, depending on if you have the off road package or not. I'll assume not, and that you're running 235/75R15's. You will gain almost 4" ride height. Your odometer/speedometer will read 11% slow. So, when your speedometer indicates 53mph, you will actually be travelling at 60mph. When your trip meter reads 88 miles, you will have actually traveled 100 miles. I went ahead and used my gears, which is 4.66, running the 17s will effectively change your rear end ratio to 4.11. And 3000rpm with the 235/75R15 will be 2650 with the 285/70R17's.

Yeah, it doesn't really take a whole lot of oil to seem catastrophic... Have you ever dumped a quart of oil on the ground? those little half dollar sized spots most people leave don't seem that worrisome afterwards...

the thing with brakes, on a car anyway, is that the pads are always touching the rotor. If not you'd get that squishy pedal feel. But it sounds like at least one of your rotors is slightly warped. As for teh oil. is it on the side of the block, or just the oil pan? could be the front or rear main seal. the rear main is a PITA... the front, still a PITA, but not as much.

+1 on the brakes having surface rust. Especially if it sits outside. The pulsing is a bit odd, but from what I know, you can warp rotors by over torquing the lug nuts, I could be wrong though. The surface rust will get wiped off by the brake pad the more you drive it and the sound should go away. As for the fluid, just saying there is fluid on the bottom side of the engine isn't much help it could be motor oil, it could be gear oil (if you have a 5spd), it could be automatic transmission fluid, it could have come from the power steering pump... who knows... wipe some off with your finger and tell us what color is it!

I would guess AM antenna if it's any kind of antenna, as I have an antenna on my fender.

i havent had a problem with my auto hubs. I have gotten stuck a few times in 2wd and been able to get out after putting it into 4hi, the front driveshaft turns the diff, which turns the axles, which then eventually locks the hubs allowing self extraction. It was one thing that I like about my truck over my buddies toyota with warns. But as soon as I find a set, I'm swapping to manuals, preferably nissan stock from a HB...

my foglight plugs are near/under the battery. I should check to see if I have those plugs, I don't have auto climate, but just curious. Though, while we're on the topic of auto climate, I wonder if this is related. I have a wire running through the center of my windshield, like a defroster wire. I followed it to the passenger side near the dash, and there is a black wire connected to it, but dunno where it goes. is this some sort of sensor? for the auto climate?

Yeah, U.S. lighting is still based on standards set back in the 50s... You can see the crisp cut off line in the euro light and how no light is above it, and on the US you can see the scattered light above. ****** picture, but you can still see it.

PART OUT A TWO DOOR? blasphemy. lol. jk

Carello Made in Italy. AWESOME lights. Here's an H4 conversion comparison for the standard sealed beam here in the sates. carello on the left, standard US sealed beam on the right. I love whoring this picture out cause it just amazes me.

Glad you got it figured out the cheap way!

Yeah, my tach... "works" I dunno how accurate it is but it will move. on really long drives it must get tired cause it just hangs on the 0.

Mine are also just height adjusting...