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I did the AC split poly bushings and new bolts. They were super simple to install after the old ones were burned out and the sleeves were cut out. The rear end is solid now with only the squeeking found with poly bushings. I PB blasted the bolts for days prior to the job and still had to get a bigger impact gun to break them free. James

Yeah there has to be some type of main fused link or the computer is shot. It looked like the headlights were full of water in the end so there would of been all types of electrical issues. Could something of gotten pulled loose from the pull out? Ground or something like that. Good luck, your balls are bigger than mine when it comes to wheelin

My 97 LE has the same visors. The range on the remote built into the visor is much better than the remote that was with my garage door opener James

Get the Crager Soft 8 they are around $50 each I think. James

I have the Mile Marker Hubs from them and they are just fine. I also did not have to replace any studs so they were very easy to install. I have read that the throttle body spaces are a complete waste of money so I don't think I would spend my money there. Also just a standard air filter works just fine. Some of the oiled type (K&N) can throw CEL. Save the pennys and get the lift. James

Ok I'll be the first, Everything you are asking is already on a pinned link. Just a simple search will answer everything. I did new fluids and hubs on my 97 and am getting 20mpg on highway so that helped a bit. 4x4parts.com will have everything you need for a lift James

With Fairing if you can cut it down some more to be flush/ If not then without it for sure. Wondering how the rack would look on a 97 Pathy? James

Got worried for a min but figured out my 97 is not the auto type t-case. There was another post on here talking about the auto types and the possible problems. It also linked to a Aussie site that people taked about running theres for years with the auto type and would get the light from time to time but no other problems? James

I put the Mile Marker on my 97 R50 and as you said it was a easy install. The factory studs were plenty long enough so they were used. Wonder if there is any benefit in changing them? The only thing I I did not like was I could not get a socket around the bolts to tighten them down so I hsd to use a wrench. Just a small thing. I now have to remember to pre lock the hubs so that is taking some getting used to. I was up at a local ski resort a few weeks ago and tried backing out and just spinning the rears. I got out and a coupld gut asked hey you need us to pull you out. I just locked the hubs and backed on up X2 on how do the factory stubs come out? James

Not sure as mine is a 97 but is it the Fuel Vapor canister for the Emissions? It could be part of the ac dryer system but you would know it was that part with all the large aluminium lines going in to it and out?

I just has the upper and lower bushings replaced in the rear this week with the Split poly pieces from 4x4 parts and wow what a difference. No roll a the rear end really is much more truck like. Every thing feels stiffer. The mechanic was really cool, he actually let me help with the job and we figured that with burning the bushings out and cutting the inner sleve with a hack saw it only took 10 min per arm after the first one. I did bend on lower rear bar on the first one trying to beat the sleve out with a big hammer before we learned the hack saw trick. The bar bent back in place and everything seems to track well. Anyway the whole job cost $80 labor . The only thing that could of saved me some money was that I bought all new grade 10? bolts from 4x4 thinking mine would all break and they all broke loose not a problem. I have the factoty 8 bolts if anyone needs them. James

I think Summit had the MM for like $99 when I bought mine from 4x4 a couple months ago.

My 97 is kinda the same. I have to wiggle the lever and move it back and forth a couple times for the light to go out. I just figure it is some thing in the linkage or maybe there is a switch that is sticking? Does not help much but just my thoughts. James

After reading many post it comes down to replacing the Trans Fluid temp sensor needs replacing. Anyone know where it is? Thanks James H

Left mine alone but if you are confident with changing them and not starting a leak then I would do the change. My 2cents

Yep I did it on my 97 with some Mile Maker hubs and everything works great and actually getting alot better milage. 16mpg in town and Got 20mpg with mostly highway today going snowboarding.

Dynamat is great depending on the product you choose. They make carpet type pad material/ Tar based super stickey that very easy to install and many others. They make a product that does not stick but is very thick and inthe middle has a layer of alluminumn so it can mold to the area and that kills sound great. All these items are pretty expensive so look around for other manufaacturers as well, Hushmatt is great, stinger makes an item called roadkill. Jmaes

Ok I found them, it looks like there are 3 sensors on the outside in the front bumper area so I did the good ol wiggle and shake repair method and I'll see what that does. Heading to salvage yard in next couple days to check out getting replacements off one there. Thanks James H

Any direction to where the ambient temp sensor is located? Is this the same sensor that sends information to the digital temp in the ceiling? That is working good. Thanks James H

Thank you for taking some time and giving me a reply! I know where the two inside pieces are and I will check them out. I will give the radiator support out and see if I can find the other. Aby pics of it by any chance? Do you know if these are dealer only items or can they be got from places like rockauto? Thanks again James

There are two ways to think about it. 1. Get it fixed for a fair price from your friend and know it is good. 2. Spray everything down with stop rust that is available from several manufacturers and cover them back up with the flares and just live with it. I am the type person that option two sounds good but it would drive me crazy knowing the cancer was there. James

Looking for some thoughts on this issue. My 97 ac/heat is acting weird. At the lowest setting 65 air or ac blow cold and normal. If I turn it up one notch the system blows heat with very little difference even at 85 heat. Now after about 20 min or so of driving on highway the controls start working fine and I get all the different cool to heat temps? I have replaced the controls thinking that was the problem and no difference. I know there is a temp sensor at the top of the dash and I am not sure what that does? I know there is a box at the lower portion on the center console that is acuated by the temp knob that could be bad maybe? Any ideas. It is not a great big problem just a pain when taking short trips and the heat gets so hot when on. Thanks James H

Yery good lesson on the cooling system BowTied. I did just have the Timing belt and water pump replaced so maybe something with the thermostat is goofed when the system was drained or maybe it could be air in the lines? I will work them out tonight to rule that out. It has been a constant cold here latlely but nothing to super cold. Thanks All James

Good deal, it sounds like not a big deal. My overdrive works, if I turn it off at 65 it goes to something like 4200 so I guess it is just the warm up and needing the converter to lock up. I just need to be less picky and not notice the every little creak and noise in an older vehicle. James