JamesRich

Thats a cool idea. I thought about making a pair of slide out drawers for the back so my gear would always be stored and I could throw other thing on top of them when I needed the space. James

That's the ratio in my wifes 01 Nissan quest too! It's no race car but gets up pretty good for a long heavy vehicle rated at 170 HP. James

Are you bending the tube or the rod? I tried bending mine and it didn't help. My rear hatch stays up it's my glass that doesn't. I have a mystery though. I found a 94 in a pick-a-part that the struts for the glass were really strong. I purchased them and when I got home and put them on my 87 they were just as week as mine. The 87 glass wouldn't be heavier? James

My opinion on the pathy's acceleration is bottom end torque cams with really low gears doesn't allow the motor to rev fast enough to push the vehicle at a faster rate. Anyone understand that? I think with a higher rear ratio we would get a quicker acceleration but not as much pulling power and the higher ratio would make it harder to crawl when wheeling. If we had cams with a higher RPM power band (like the Z) the motor would rev faster and give us more acceleration but not as much torque for pulling at low RPMs. Z cars didn't come with a tow hitch. Anyone else think this theory is sound? James

Sounds like you already have the best idea to flush it. You could disconnect the lines and spray some brake parts cleaner through them then blow compressed air to dry them. I usually do this with an A/C system after the compressor craps out. But the only way to safely flush the box is what you already came up with. You could also try to find some type of in line filter to add to the return when you finish flushing to protect the pump from any particles that didn't come out in the flush. James

when you go to the scrape yard take some pictures of where the vacuum actuators bolt up to the vent housings they may be different. You might have to change out the entire air box and everything associated with it. You would get your vacuum from the engine. There would also be a plastic tank probably under the hood for a vacuum reservoir. I'm not saying it's not a good idea, but I know I'm too lazy to go through all that just for different controls. Now if it was automatic climate control it would be worth it. My Titan has that and it's really cool, just set it and forget it. James

I was going to say it had to be the dust shield rubbing but you beat me to it. If the drum bent at all you will feel it while braking. You do need to take it off and check it for cracks though. If you don't see any cracks and no surging while braking I wouldn't worry about it. I wouldn't do this, with my luck after I ran over it it would bounce up and put a hole in the truck!

I'm finished for now so take your time. It will probably be a couple weeks till I can work on it again. James

Thanks a million B! You saved me some redesigning. My Dad and I started working on this yesterday. My plan was to build one out of wood first to test my design ideas and figure out fitments. My mistake was with my short patience I didn't wait at lowes for someone to get me a sheet of good plywood from a high shelf and just grabbed a sheet of wafer board. This crap would split when we tried to run screws and basically kept falling apart. If it wasn't for my Dad I would have kicked it off the truck and smashed it to pieces which wouldn't have been hard with this crappy wood. I'm also surprised that they just used one of the stock bolts on each side. That will make it easier being the other bolt is offset. Also I hadn't planned on the third bolt at each tow hook mount. I will go with you, GG, and oldslowreliable idea of using tubing to come off the tow hook mounts. I was thinking of using channel but the tubing will be better. I have just a couple of other questions, what thickness material did they use for the main supports? And how far does the center of the bumper stick out from the grill? It looks like I was going over kill on the thickness I was going to use. James

I Had already planned on using the tow hook holes too. I have a lot of ideas to put together but would still like to see a picture of the mount. I'm a visual type, I don't need measurements just a pic. I can measure everything I need off of my truck when I start. I'm not too worried about the winch seat like you say I will build around the winch. I would think the winch should be in line with the frame for a even transfer of pull but I have found pictures on the net where the winch is up higher than the frame. I would think this would want to bend the front of the frame down during a really hard pull or actually push the front of the truck down when pulling. I know I don't want to mount it too low because I will be in water alot. I guess I'm just trying to gather as much info as I can so that I do it right the first time. I really don't want to have to do it again or try to change something after I have welded it all up. Precise if you have good pictures with it off the truck that will be great. I don't need you to measure it or go through a lot of trouble just I few good pics. Just need to load up my "minds eye" you as a machinist will know what I'm talking about. James

I've seen a few members with ARB winch Bumpers, can someone take some close up pics for me. Some from the bottom side that shows where it mounts to the frame and maybe some from on top that shows where the winch sits. I'm about ready to start building my own and have some ideas but would like to see how it's been done. James

First check to make sure you didn't pinch a wire between the bell housing when you put the trans back. I have seen this happen alot. It will cause all kinds of ghost to show up. James

If it has live milling with a Y axis there are so many things you could make with that thing. I wish Weatherford would let me play with my machine off the clock, I could turn out some cool parts. I run a mazak Integrex 650e. The 24" spindle takes some working around for smaller parts but I could find a way. James

My 87 has the sub tank gauge so I guess it doesn't have a light. Unfortunately the sub gauge doesn't work it just stays on empty all the time. I never ran it all the way empty yet to see what will happen though. I think I will wait till I have a can mounted on the back so I don't need to take nunya's alternate form of transport. James

We discussed this a while back. The problem you would have would be your distributor. You would have to find a mechanical advance distributor then you would be good to go. James

First off y'all need a pick-a-part, I paid $20 for mine. What are you going to do for sun roof clearance? Or are you going to let the rear and middle feet hang over the side step down on the roof? I shortened mine to where all three feet sit flush, then I narrowed it until all of the rear and middle feet are sitting on a full surface. Now the front feet will be sitting over the front corners of the sun roof. The only thing I can think of is milling clearance on the front feet so that the sun roof will still open with the foot sitting over the corner. This will work but look crappy if anyone looks up that high. I guess I will have to get some pictures with it on to explain what I'm talking about. I'll see if I can do that this afternoon. If you get yours mounted before then take lots of pictures. James

Definitely use a unibit step drill to drill your holes. They sell those at harbor freight too. A regular twist drill will not make a round hole in thin sheet metal. James

This is what I got to put the xterra rack on my pathy with. I just haven't had the time to finish it up. I have used these before to mount mirrors on delivery trucks, they don't always work well. Sometimes the nut will turn in the sheet metal after its been compressed. I'm also worried about leaks. James

107k on my 87 and I still have the factory plug wires and belts! James

Yes just new territory for me but its all good. Just like from a car engine to a big truck, runs the same just bigger. I see you have an ARB bumper. How about some close up pics of it? Some good shots from the front, sides, underneath and the mounting brackets. Sure would help us alot. James

My winch came in now just to find the time to work on the bumper. My Dad and Brother will help me, so between the three of us we should be able to come up with something cool. I got the smittybuilt 8000 winch. The only winch I ever played with is the 2000# warn on my quad. The 8000# winch is BIG! James

Y'all are loosing me here, when you say crank pulley are you talking about the stamped sheet metal pulley or the actual cast iron harmonic balancer that is pressed on the crankshaft? If y'all are talking about boring out the harmonic balancer, are y'all sure the crank balances the same? A guy on clubtitan started making lighter balancers for Titans to improve performance and through off the crank balance and caused all kinds of troubles. James

Like they tell us at work; the fire extenguisher is not for fighting the fire, it's for clearing a way for you to get the hell out! So if you path to get away is clear screw the fire extinguisher and haul butt! Unless in this case you owned the gas station. James

This man knows what he is talking about! I have a ton of unfinished projects laying around. I plan on building my own bumper too. Waiting on my winch to come in first. I sure could use a lot of up close and different angle pics of an ARB or any other winch bumper you may have. I'm planning to fab it up in wood first so I can see what it will look like before cutting metal. James

I hadn't thought that far ahead yet, the ignition would be a problem. I remember seeing after market duel carb intakes for the older pickups with a four cylinder but they already had a carb so the distributor would not have to be changed. James