Howie

You don't have to replace the shocks when you replace the coils. Most people do, because it's easy when the coils are out, but you don't have to. Are you going to do the work yourself, or have a mechanic do it? If you have a mechanic do it, it will be cheaper to do both at once because you're not paying twice for labor cost. If you do it yourself, then you can definitely do just the coils, and then the shocks later, whenever you want.

I would "spring" for the extra $150 for the rear OME coils. If you've got 145K miles on your current set, you'll notice a huge difference.

Sounds like a release, or throwout bearing. Also, could be your lubricants. If you don't know when the last time the transfer and transmission fluids were changed, then change them. If the noise is still there, then unfortunately it might be your release bearing, which is a $40 part, but about $600 in labor to replace because you have to drop the whole transmission. I've done that job, but it took me 3 days and the use of a hydraulic lift, because I'd never done transmission work before. Now it would probably take me a day or two. The service manual says it takes 8 hours of labor, hence the $600 labor charge. If you're up for doing the job yourself, hit me up. I can give you lots of pointers.

That's almost the exact same setup that I have, except I have KYB Gas-a-just shocks in the rear, and OME firm all around. Consider doing firm up front as well as rear, because that's where all your weight is. Don't look at my sig picture for lift height, because that was taken prior to the lift. I've had no issues with the KYB struts and shocks, and they've been on for years. I'm not a heavy off-roader, though, so take that into consideration.

Nice!

Holy crap, I want! I just might have to get one, and do an install thread...

Which quarter tank are you measuring? The gas tank is tapered, so your gas gauge will not read in equal increments.

I was in the Navy, and stationed there. A lot of use were talking about bringing back cars, but the Navy had all sorts of rules and stuff to make it difficult.

Now your screen name makes sense! Nice car. Those Skylines are awesome. As rare as they are here, I saw them all over the place when I was stationed in Okinawa for a year. Man, I wish I would have brought one home!

Would half an inch of sidewall height then give him an inch lift? Not bad!

So what happened? Did you get home okay? Or did you spend the night at the gas station?

Dude, that jack-under-the-hitch is an awesome idea! Why didn't I think of that? Although, every time Harbor Freight has their shop press on sale for $169, I always consider it, but so far I've resisted the temptation...

I wish I had a shop press. That's 2 things I could do with it now. The other one would be pressing out the spider assembly when servicing the front drive axle.

The part # is 999T4-XM000. http://www.txnissanparts.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=3633 The bar attaches at the tow hook points, and replaces the factory tow hooks. It comes with different tow hooks to install with the bar, so you don't lose those tow points.

Nissan does offer an OEM grille guard/brush guard for the R50. It came out in 2001, 5 years after that TSB. Possibly because the R50 airbags are triggered by an accelerometer mounted in the center of the vehicle, and not by impact with the front bumper. See my picture below. I have the OEM Nissan grille guard. The thing is lightweight, though, made of aluminum. Won't survive much of a front-end impact.

Check out Rockauto.com for a better selection of parts. My quick search showed AC Delco front bushings for $9 a piece. Don't go to the dealer for installation, they'll rip you off on labor. Find a good mechanic who does imports, and it'll be just fine, at a much lower cost.

Dude, awesome job. The key to a good paint job is patience, and it looks like you did it exactly right!

Those look great! I love the color. I have the exact same wheels. So you painted with the color, and the the clearcoat on top of that after it dried? Or was it one of those deals where the clearcoat was buit in?

Could be in "limp mode" due to a problem with the MAF sensor. If it is, you wouldn't necessarily be able to tell just by looking at the sensor. Hopefully the scanner will help you.

Mine came pre-wired from the factory. I'll look at it and see if it looks like that.

Those are great photos! Good job.

Holy chit, my sensors did NOT look like that when I pulled them! I'm really glad I've been compulsive about oil changes.

You have to push down on the shifter while pulling it back. Like, push it into the floor, along its longitudinal axis, and pull it back at the same time. (Hahah, simultaneous post. Oh well.)

Hahahah! Redrider, I think you're right about the multimeter and sensors. I hooked up my multimeter and same thing happened to me. The bad sensor checked out fine, but I replaced it anyway and fixed the problem. Checking the grounds and harness connections is always a good idea before you start replacing parts, and the service manual troubleshooting tells you to do exactly that. It seems like the sensors are more likely to go bad than the solenoids, but I think I remember one guy on here did have to replace a solenoid. At any rate, replacing the sensors is much more common, and thankfully, a lot easier. Mbra66, I like the color, but it wasn't the one I originally wanted. I think I wanted the tan or silver, but now I'm glad I got this one. I've had it since brand-new and have taken really good care of it. These cars are pretty easy to work on. When I was still in the Navy I had access to a hydraulic lift and pretty much any tool you'd need. I dropped the whole transmision and transfer case just to replace the release bearing, which is a $40 part. Saved me about $800 in labor. But it took me 3 days to do it, and the use of a hydraulic lift, transmission jack, and a really long extension to get to the top bolt on the bell housing.

You're doing so well. Don't give up! P1140 and P1145 are common codes on these vehicles, and refer to the intake valve timing control sensor (or solenoid). P1145 is the left side and P1140 is the right side. Use the factory service manual to locate these sensors. They're easy to get to at the front of the engine bay and remove with just unscrewing one bolt. Switch them. If you now have P1145 instead of P1140, then you know the problem is with the sensor. If it stays P1140, then the problem is with the solenoid. I haven't replaced the solenoids (only the sensors, and on mine I had to do both). The sensors are about $60 from either Rockauto or Amazon. If you're handy with a multimeter, you can check functionality of the sensor itself. Again, the service manual will help you here, but basically it has you check the terminals in sequence to determine if the circuit shows low resistance or completely open, and depending on your findings you'll know if the sensor itself is bad.