Howie

You're right, I missed that. VQ engines came to Pathfinder in '01. VG33 engine has only been used in Pathfinders and minivans apparently, so probably no bolt-on turbos for it. VQ, on the other hand, was in Altima, Maxima, 350Z, Infiniti G35 and M35. There are definitely aftermarket parts! If money is no object, easiest way to go, I would think, would be to swap out VG33 for VQ35, then find a bolt-on setup: http://www.turbo-kits.com/350Z_turbo_kits.html Maybe, instead of swapping out your engine, you can trade in your '99 for an '01 or later R50, then do the bolt-on. I think that would be easiest of all. Hmmm, now you've got me thinking about this too. $5K to turbocharge my Pathfinder? --Howie

Which engine do you have? I think the VQ is the same as the Maxima engine, so if there are aftermarket bolt-ons for that, it would be easier than swapping out the engine completely.

It says ICE when the temperature drops below a certain point to warn you that there may be ice on the road. It's not related to an actual sensor (other than the temperature sensor). I don't remember exactly what temperature triggers it (but I think it might be 40 degrees F). I think it's listed in the operating manual. I'll check it when I get back to my truck. --Howie

The winch survived, huh? Great choice on the 2003! It's going to be a sweet ride when you install all those mods. And condolences on the '98. I've had my faithful old '01 since 6 miles on the odometer, and I still love it. Drove the newer version when my wife had it as a rental, and liked mine way better. The R50's are definitely the way to go! --Howie

Keep in mind that struts/shocks do not provide lift: coil springs do. Struts and shocks provide dampening ability only, and do not affect ride height. So like the previous poster said, for factory height you want to get stiffer but not higher springs. As far as struts/shocks, you can get anything that fits your car, and they're not necessarily sized by whether you have a lift. For instance, the KYB's I have on my car would be the same struts to use whether I'm at factory height or lifted. Also, you're not saving any money by not lifting your car because they're the same struts and shocks. I would recommend that if you want a stiffer ride, you're going to have to replace the springs, and since you're doing that, you might as well get a quality set like the ones from Old Man Emu. You can get the ones that provide only a little bit of lift (like 1 inch), but it will be a stiffer ride than factory. --Howie

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I went with the OEM strut mounts. They weren't that expensive from Infiniti of Scottsdale. I paid $55.10 for 2 bearings, and $44.10 for 2 mounts (insulators). You can call them at 480-941-0055, or email parts@infinitiofscottsdale.com, URL everythingnissan.com. --Howie

I use the KYB Gas-a-just shocks on my rears with the OME lift, and I haven't had any problems with it. Ride is a little stiffer (that's the springs, not the shocks), but I like it just fine. As other people have said, it feels more "truck-like," and rugged. Don't have anything to compare the shocks to, though, because I haven't used any others except for the originals. Also, the Gas-a-just shocks are white, so I bought some red boots ($3 each) for them, mounted them upside down, and they look just like Ranchos! --Howie

I'm at 125,000 miles, still on original clutch. I did replace the release bearing myself at 100,000 miles because it was making a whine. I couldn't see paying a mechanic $800 to replace a $40 part. Of course, it did take me well over 10 hours to do, even though I had access to a full shop including hydraulic lift, transmission jack, and every tool I needed. It is a PITA to drop the transmission. Had to remove the exhaust from the catalytic converters back because the tranny wouldn't clear it by about 2 inches. Also, that top bolt on the bell housing is a bitch to get to if you don't have a REALLY long extension for your wrench. Had to stand all the way at the back by the rear driveshaft with a 4-foot extension on the ratchet to get at the right angle. --Howie

I have the same leak. I just recharged my system with a can of refrigerant and it's been fine. I think it's a slow enough leak that I can get away with occasional recharges. I looked into replacing the hose, and you can't just replace the hose. You have to replace the whole low pressure side (of which that rubber hose is the main part). I doesn't look that technically difficult to do, and the part is about $120. The bigger PITA once that's done is to find someone to recharge the whole system with refrigerant. I was going to do it when I got more time.

Doesn't the R50 come with the VQ35DE engine, which is a 3.5 liter with a timing chain, not a belt?

Welcome to the NPORA forum! I hope you don't get any negative responses, because I thought all your questions were good ones, and you seem to have done your homework because I don't think the answers have been covered anywhere in great detail. Anyway, I would like to address one of your questions. I am pretty mechanically inclined (I dropped the transmission and transfer case on my 4WD R50 myself just to change out the release bearing... couldn't justify paying a mechanic $600 to change out a $40 part), and would have done the lift myself but I realized that it would be more expedient to pay a mechanic. So I found one that does suspension work and told him I wanted to replace my struts, shocks and coils. It was a little mom-and-pop shop, but it had a computerized alignment system (which is key when you're doing suspension work). This place was so cool, they let me help out with the job, instead of making me stand behind the yellow line. I bought all my own parts (Old Man Emu springs, KYB shocks and struts), and brought them in so he only charged me for the labor. When we came to the part where we were replacing the springs, the manager happened to walk by and realized that I was doing a suspension lift. He said, "Oh, you're putting on a lift kit? That costs extra!" I told him, "Yeah, right," because we had already negotiated the price of the labor and so he let it go. So watch out for that: mechanics realize that people who mod their vehicles are willing to pay more for the work. So I guess the key points are as follows: 1. Any mechanic that does suspension work can do your lift. 2. Make sure they have an alignment machine, and negotiate that into the price of the job. 3. Buy your own parts. It will always be cheaper. 4. Negotiate the price beforehand, and tell them you are replacing your suspension, and you have your own parts. DO NOT SAY ANYTHING ABOUT A LIFT. If they call you on it, you can always claim ignorance and say you didn't realize it was a lift because you got the upgraded springs from a buddy. Hope this helps!

How much is the dealer charging for the work?

That grille paint job looks really nice. Did you prime or sand the chrome prior to painting it? It didn't look like you did in the pictures. I'm wondering how long that job will last if you just sprayed right onto the chrome. --Howie

I might be stating the obvious here, but just to the right of the power door lock switch is a button called the "Lock button." Per the owner's manual: Locking passenger's windows When the lock button is pushed in, only the driver side window can be opened or closed. Push it again to cancel.

My fronts are factory original at 125K miles, but they're getting low. Haven't looked at the rears, but they're original too. --Howie

Okay, so how does one go about PREVENTING this kind of damage?

I noticed the same thing when I towed or loaded up on cargo with my stock springs. The R50 Pathfinders have soft rear coils. I guess it adds to the ride quality when unloaded, or with just a few passengers in back, which is how most people probably use it. But if you do anything more than that, you should replace your springs with stiffer ones. Going with the OME or AC coils would probably be sufficient for your needs. It will also lift your vehicle by 1.5" to 2". An air leveling kit might be overkill. Of course, you'll want to replace the fronts too, or your truck will be lower in front. I drove around like that for a few days because I replaced my rear coils first. I didn't think it looked too bad, but some people hate it. By the way, replacing shocks would do nothing for the problem you describe. It's the springs (and their spring rate) that determine the vehicle's stiffness, or ability to support a load. The shocks dampen oscillations only. But if yours is a 2002, the shocks probably needed replacing. --Howie

Be careful with doing that, though. If your inspection is for smog, then the modern machines can tell if you've just reset the codes. You'll have to drive the car a few times in order for the ECM to delete the System Readiness Test (SRT) codes. If you don't, the SRT will throw an "Incomplete," meaning that there haven't been enough drive cycles for the ECM to perform all self-diagnostics. You'll fail the inspection and then have to pay for re-inspection. I know from experience! People recommend driving the car for about 2 weeks after resetting the codes to ensure that all self-diagnostics are completed. I think that's a little much. Depending on how far you commute to work, a few days might be all that's necessary. If you have a more expensive code reader, or the Blazt system, it will tell you if the SRT diagnostics are complete. --Howie

I think the best option would be air springs: http://www.airliftcompany.com/load_support_index.html That way, when you're unloaded your rear won't be 1" higher. Just a thought... --Howie

You can check out this link: http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=486243&an=0&page=0#Post486243 Which basically says Stock rear springs: 14 3/8” Free Length 115 lbs/in Spring Rate (approx) 0.53” or 13.5 mm Wire Diameter. 5” Inside Coil Diameter --Howie

I just did this fix on my '01 Pathfinder, and it worked like a charm. I wanted to post a few points that haven't previously been covered, and clarify some things that have. I was getting random hesitation on acceleration especially above 3000 rpm. I had already cleaned my injectors and changed the fuel filter, so I tried to clean my MAF sensor. Unfortunately, after I put the sensor back in, my engine went into fail-safe mode and would not go above 2400 rpm. I had broken the MAF sensor, and now I needed to replace it. But when I spoke to Dave Burnette of South Point Nissan in Austin TX, he said that others have reported the same thing, and the sensor was probably already failing. My attempt to clean it just pushed it over the edge. He also told me that this fix has worked probably a thousand times since this thread began 3 years ago, and it consistently works. Made me feel better about spending the $80. 1. The part (22680-2Y001) is the "complete airflow meter assembly," which is the sensor already bolted into the plastic tube between the air filter housing and the intake manifold. This assembly attaches to the air filter housing with 4 bolts, and to the intake via a wire clamp around the rubber hose leading to the throttle body. There's a slip of paper in the packaging which refers you to TSB01-036, instructions for reprogramming the ECU after installation of the new sensor. Don't worry, though, you won't have to do that. The TSB refers to the Maxima ECU, and lists specific ECU's by part number that have to be reprogrammed. My ECU wasn't listed, so yours probably won't be either, meaning you won't have to reprogram it. 2. The TSB lists a 3-step process to fix it. You have to 1) replace the air filter and vacuum out the air filter housing, 2) replace the complete airflow meter assembly, and 3) reprogram the ECU. As stated above, the last one is not necessary for us Pathfinder owners. The first two are a good idea. I didn't replace my air filter since I do that fairly regularly and it was pretty clean, but I did vacuum out the housing. 3. It's possible, and A LOT easier to just remove the sensor and replace it instead of replacing the whole assembly. Since I had the brand-new assembly I decided not to let it go to waste and install the whole thing. However, it required completely freeing up the air filter housing in order to get the assembly out of there. Not that big a deal, just a few more bolts undone. I didn't take the whole thing out of the engine compartment, just loosened it enough to wiggle the airflow meter assembly out of the intake tube. 4. When everything was put back together, I knew the new MAF sensor was working before I even drove the car because after the engine warmed up the idle dropped below 1000. Also, the car revved to above 2400 rpm, which it couldn't do with the broken sensor. My CEL didn't go off on its own, so I just reset it with my Blazt system. If you don't have that capability, I think the light would reset itself after a few trips, but I'm not sure about that. I cleared the code (0100), and it didn't come back. 5. After this fix, my Pathfinder drives better than before! No more hesitation. The old MAF sensor was in fact failing and needed to be replaced. So, if you have hesitation issues, try cleaning (or replacing) your MAF sensor. Don't attempt to clean it if your Pathy is your primary mode of transportation, though, because with the engine in fail-safe mode you'll be limited to driving on surface streets until you can get the new part. I'm hoping I get better mileage with the new MAF sensor. If anyone's interested, I'll let you know after I've driven it for a while and have the data. --Howie

Whatever happened with this? Did they make the spacers?

Still getting stuff together for the lift, but now I have a question. The stock springs have a polyurethane tube on them. Do the aftermarket springs have the same thing? If not, did you replace that tube with a new one, use the old ones, or just ignore it altogether? thanks, Howie

Hello Everyone, I'm about to purchse a set of OME coil springs and Warn locking hubs from Rugged Rocks (ruggedrocksoffroad.com), and Steve, the owner, suggested we could get a discount if we arranged a group buy. Now's the perfect time to take the plunge if you were holding out for a good discount! Let me know if you're interested. --Howie