Simon

Oh wait...you said you tested the injectors.......sorry....

Hmm.....Maybe you're flooding? Now, I'm just guessing, but it's possible that you've got a bad injector or 2 and they're allowing too much fuel in, and causing the pressure in the lines to drop, hence the fuel pump continously running.

Do you smell fuel? When you're cranking, and you can hear the injectors?

Okay....Are you SURE you've got fuel? Maybe your fuel pump died? It sounding less and less like an electrical problem if it's cranking, but won't fire.

Good thing I don't have that one!!!! Scary for a second though, just had to run the VIN to be sure!!!

Who knows. I think that's the "bitchy" edition. VERY few around. VERY rare!! !

Sorry Trainman....forgot to mention that. It WAS dropped in '01, brought back in '02, then changed to Chinook in '04

Vidro, it could very well be your hatch isn't closing properly. It's a common problem, and easy fix. Either loosen the latch, on the truck, and move it in a little, or some people have just put some tape around the latch, so that the hatch closes securely.

Could it be a voltage regulator? (just a shot in the dark!!!)

Chilkoot was only on 96+ Pathfinders, in Canada. They did not exist in 01. IN 04 they were called the Chinook Edition. Basically the Chilkoot was an XE in Canada, with only a couple of extra options, to differentiate it. XE is bottom of the line, but could have many options to push it near, or at SE level (on WD21 Pathys) SE was the most "capable" from the factory w/adjustable shocks, Lego wheels, 31" tires, LSD, and Rear Discs (most SE's had the above mentioned offroad package, you could get the LSD, an Rear discs with the big tires on XE sometimes too. Again, this is for WD21 Pathys) LE was the luxury edition, with leather, unique alloy wheels, but smaller tires. Usually they had colour coded bumpers, instead of the black on XE and the chrome on SE (WD21 Pathfinders again) On the R50s Chilkoot/XE for the most part had steel/chrome wheels, small tires and no fender flares SE/LE got the fender flares, and alloys, and LE had leather, for the most part In 2001 they made the 3.5L VQ engine standard, and with the change, for some reason, dropped the Chilkoot name in Canada. It was just an XE. There are LOTS of things I'm missing on this, but I'm sure what I've posted is pretty close to being correct. Folks, let me know if there's anything important I'm missing.

Good point K9. Forgot to mention that.

It sounds feasible.....but I'd check for moisture inside the cap, and for corrosion in the wires before spending big $$ on a new, performance coil. Just to check the easy stuff.

That does seem VERY strange. I've got a 20' recovery strap, and have used it to pull all kinds of vehicles out of snowbanks, ditches.....etc. I've NEVER had anyone come even close to hitting my truck, and I would know, since I'm always recovering facing the other car. I don't have any rear attachment points....yet. Sounds to me like someone wasn't paying attention, at all....like....fell asleep with their foot planted to the floor.

You might, if it wasn't a hairline leak. It's not big enough to make any extra noise, or to smell, for some reason....... but it's large enough to let the VERY hot exhaust out, and, as in my case, accelerate the effects of salt used in winter. I've thought I'd be able to smell it as well, but I can't. Strange, I know.

There could be another cause here...... it could also be an exhaust leak in the Y-pipe area that's causing the heat. I had the issue, and had it eat through my floorboard!!! Anyways, a tranny cooler is still an excellent idea, as the stockers are prone to clogging, but it might be a good idea to check the exhaust joints in the area as well.

Mine was almost that big. LAst time I used some heavy screening, and fibreglass reinforced bondo to fix it. That was just temporary. It's held up pretty well though.

1 inch lift?!? If your rear coils were bad enough that you noticed a spongy feel, they were probably sagging. Any replacement, stock length coil will probably give you an inch or so. I'd look for something variable rate, so if you load it up, the back won't sink as much. On the other hand, you can get some JGC coils, from the scrapyard, crank the torsion bars to level it out. That'll give you anywhere between 2.5-3" of lift, and probably cost less than new coils. Just a thought. If you go that route, though, you would DEFINITELY have to go with the 31" tires at least. 235's would look REALLY foolish with a 3" lift!

If you try to start it, and it seems you only hear the starter turning, you may have eaten your timing belt. If it cranks properly, your distributor (where, I believe the Crank Angle sensor is located) may have died.

I read here once, (I believe Diesel Boy posted it) that you only need to disconnect 1 side for the sway bar to do nothing. Makes sense to me, as if 1 side is disconnected, the bar can flex/sway as much as it likes, but it's still hanging, up, and out of the way.

Change that baseball cap for a helmet, and you've got "SHORT BUS PEZZY"!!! Good thing Hubby drives the Yellow X.....perfect for "special" Pezzy's transportation!!!

Thanks B....I HAD a good picture in my mind before heading to bed shortly.......that's gone!!!

No fair.....I'm gonna take my ball and go home!!!!

Yeah.....after drinks......LOTS of drinks!!!!

NICE!!!! But not quite what I had in mind when I said "something to go on" That's not quite calendar material there Pezzy!!!

That's pretty weak CRAZ4SNO....if it was THAT bad, she wouldn't have previously posted it here herself!!! Come on man, give us something to REALLY go on here!!!