Simon

I think maybe you hit the nail on the head there 98SilverPathy. The fact that the CRX has such small rotors could be why the cross drilled has worked. Less surface area=less stress on the weak areas caused by cross drilling. Granted, I don't know a whole bunch about the cross drilled rotors as I've never driven a ricer, and have had no braking issues in my Pathy. Logically, though, I think what I've said makes sense......someone correct me if I'm wrong!

Yep Vidro. Way too much oil in there. 3.5L is what it takes. You can go up to 4 as K9 said, without problems, I've found.

Yep.....Wheelman is right. If it's a 94, or 95 or even down to 91 (I think) it will pop off. The switch assembly is 2 pieces, with the top part that you see in your door being one, and the rest of the assembly being the other. There's 3 screws that hold the 2 together. They've probably stripped. You can either get thicker screws, or use something as a shim, jam it in the hole, and put the screw back in. That'll give the screw something to bite on to. Good luck.

I agree with alot that you've said there B. That's another reason I'm thinking of not doing a body lift. Mine is my daily driver as well, and I already have the 32's on with about a 3"SL. I don't need it any higher either, and I'm also a cautious wheeler, as I can't afford to break too much!!

Alright....makes sense. I wasn't asking the question as a criticism. I actually was looking for the benefits of it. I see your point Luker. I don't think I'm even going to do a body lift, as 10 years worth of rust on the body mounts scares me a little, in terms of the installation.

Why would you go with only 1-2"? Most kits give you 3 anyways....so why take less? Add that with a 3" SL and you've got room for 33's!!

That's impressive!!! Or highly unimpressive.........but you know what I mean!!! Wow, what a crack!!!

Well, evidently, people wheel '05 Frontiers too!!! Maybe Calmini will step up to the plate?

True again. I guess owners of the X and Frontier will have to hope for some aftermarket company to remedy the issue. Oh well, at least their aftermarket is better than the Pathfinder one!!

Okay....I must have been thinking of someone else. That section that Luker posted will have the info you need.

Ahh......that's not good. I wonder if Nissan will ever catch on, and do something to remedy the issue......

Wow.....that is pretty special!!! I wonder if you can fit a dif from an older pathy, or X in there, instead of that. The difs in ours seem pretty durable.

If I'm not mistaken, Dowser, didn't you DL the whole service manual from me? If so, just look in the ST section.....should have a full diagram. It's the same as the link that Filthy Luker posted. Just might save you more downloading.

Better than the exploding transfer case on Heep Liberty's!!!

Hey Dowser. Have you been able to determine where it's leaking from yet?

Hey Luker, isn't the L&P centerlink $250? + $100 core charge?

Oh, I realize that. I wouldn't trust it as any sort of protection, I just like the look of it, and the fact that it hides the front end, and holds my lights.

Hey....that's not nice. I have a brush guard, and it does a good job of holding my lights....which is all I need it for. Plus it hides some of the IMO styleless front end of the WD21's.

How long did you have that tranny installed in your truck? Maybe there's something else causing it, that only showed itself under extreme stress.....

For the squeal you have. Try spraying a little WD40 behind the pulley on your Power Steering pump. If that stops the squeek, take the pulley off, and apply a little grease on the shaft, and mating surface, and that'll take care of it for quite a while.

Cheapest way to lift would be to get Jeep Grand Cherokee coils for the rear, and crank the front Torsion bars to match. That'll give you about 3". Search around the forums. There's lots of information about the JGC coils, and torsion bar cranking.

That makes sense, but what could cause the high pressure at the fuel line just off the fuel filter. When measured there, it's 65psi, which is before the part of the system you're referring to.

Right. So that could be causing his non-start issue.......But the thing is it's testing at 65psi BEFORE the regulator. What can cause that?

K9....or anyone else. I was just speaking to Sniper15 on MSN, and he said he tested the fuel pressure right at the rail, and he's got 65psi! Now, from my understanding, the pressure regulator would be behind that, and it should limit pressure to 43psi. Could this be causing his issue? I.E. flooding?

Hmm.....could be something blocking them, or could be that there isn't enough fuel to get to them, or could be that they're letting too much fuel by.......I wonder if maybe your pressure regulator has bit the dust.