Simon

I don't think those will fit. It has nothing to do with the 16" rim size, or bolt pattern. The concern is the front calipers on our rigs is a little intrusive when using a rim that has too much backspacing. Those look pretty well flat, and I think you'd be rubbing, ALOT, on the caliper.

On, but off topic..... What if you laid the plywood, then drilled a couple of holes, and used some of that mono expanding foam insulation? Should work and only cost you about $10. Just a thought.

Thanks Filthy....that'd be awesome.

Well,in Canada, in some stores, they have an auto parts counter near the service desk, that isn't ACTUALLY Wal-Mart. It's a company that has paid to be in select Wal-Mart stores, and they sell auto parts....Their prices though, on alot of things, is pretty good.... I'll see if I can find the receipt for them, which will hopefully have a part number......

He was having trouble getting it attached. He couldn't get the axle to shift over enough to reattach it on the axle side. He brought it over to my place and got it reattached.

Hmm....duralast sounds familiar......I think that's what they were....... I got mine at, of all places, a Wal-Mart auto parts counter.......They ordered them in.

Mine are stock height. They're meant as a stock (OEM Spec) height replacement. But because of the fact they're heavy duty, they don't compress nearly as much. They were quite a bit heavier than the regular duty JGC coils as well.

As far as I know, all the BOSE units were double-din. It should work fine.

Under the hood....passenger side . Little canister with a fuel line going in the bottom, and coming out the top. Can't miss it.

Sorry to postjack, but, has anyone done this? My AC is shot, and has been for 2 years, so I'm used to no AC. I would like to relocate my Alternator to that spot. If someone else has a write up, or at least, some pics of how it was done, that would help alot.

DSM, I'd also suggest buying new, aftermarket JGC coils. They aren't that expensive (I got mine for about $100 CDN) and I was offered the heavy duty ones. Mine's also a 4 door, with a carrier, and a sub box, and mine still noses down due to the amount of lift they gave me. Just another thought.

First of all, synthetics do come in GL-4. There's a Pennzoil synthetic GL-4 that I've used. Secondly, I don't believe that synthetics aren't good for manual trannies. Lots of people run Redline synthetic in their Pathy's and have had very good results.

Sending unit is the part where the wiring is attached, and the fuel lines run through. It's on top of the fuel tank. It's the part the fuel pump is attached to. Upon re-reading your post.....I have to ask......where did you check the wiring? In the back by the tank? Did you check it on the sending unit? Or the other side of the harness? If you're lacking power at the harness, the sending unit is probably okay, and your issue would be in the wiring somewhere. I'd still try to find the problem, and fix it properly, as opposed to running wires straight from the battery.

If you don't know. Do it. Cheap insurance. A broken T-Belt will ruin your engine.

Yes.....it's not called Hootusliner!!!

My advice would be to change out the sending unit, rather than messing around with wiring near fuel. Dowser recently had a fire in his tank due to bad wiring. Mine did the same thing a while back (blowing fuses), but took out my fuel pump in the process.

Good score Filthy! :cool2:

I'll just add a couple of things. It seems to me that the ride with cranked, stock T-bars isn't overly stiff, at least, not to me. I don't mind it. Also, if you don't crank the T-bars way up, stock UCA's will be okay for a while, as the ball joint angles won't be too bad, and it'll still be alignable.

Why bother? You don't seem to have any rust.....the paint doesn't look that bad, and you could spend the $300-$600 to make it more trailworthy.......ARB bumper? Locker?

It gives you a bit stiffer ride and more ground clearance, which will allow you to run bigger tires, which will give you a little more ground clearance, and thus, make your truck better offroad.

Not a Polish Joke, per se, but a true story, that I found very funny. My grandmother (the Polish one) was given a pewter Polish eagle door knocker for Christmas. She loved it! I should also mention that she HATES Polish jokes........ So, my dad said "Mom, I'll put that on the door for you on the weekend" She says "What do you mean?" He says "I'll hang it on the door for you so people can use it to knock on the door" She says "WHAT? You can't put it on the outside of the door, it's too nice, put it on the inside" POLISH DOOR KNOCKER!!!!!

Yeah, you can even do the Jeep Grand Cherokee coil lift without UCA's at first if cost is an issue. I bought new ones, as I was able to get them for about $100, and the scrapyards wanted 40-50 for used...... Just install the coils in the rear, and crank your torsion bars in the front for 2.5-3" of lift.

I snapped a wheel stud not too long ago, just with a cross-type lug wrench. Leaned on it too hard, and *snap* there was my stud in the lug. I'm sure it had been previously overtightened, but I also know that since that, I've tightened my lugs with a torque wrench.

The coils will all be together.......follow any of the wires, and you'll see them all joined into a box together. That's your coil pack. The wires should be numbered, if they're the original wires.

Basically your coil pack should be easy to locate. Follow one of the sparkplug wires, starting at the plug, and moving back.....it will lead to the coil pack. The coils will be within the pack.