kmgar99

Like Precise said, get the codes from the ECU. If you have a AutoZone, they usually have the scanners available for free. Bring the Pathy, ask for the scanner, tell them the car is in the parking lot and give them your license. Post the codes. I have the FSM for the 97 so i can tell you what the codes mean.

I agree....the fact the the majority of Executives (CEO's, CFO's etc..) are contract employees is not their fault. The companies that hire them signed the contract to promise them X dollars wether they help turn a profit or not. So getting mad at an individual for walking away from a dying company with millions is all part of our capitalistic society. When everyone's making money and enjoying themselves, no one cares, when S*^T hits the fan, everyone blams these people. No easy way out of this one, and no single point of origin. The stars were ligned up perfectly for this to happen, but hindsight is always 20/20!

Not sure i want to touch this one

That's what i was thinking....on my R50 the headliner is two different depths, which might make it a good place to put it

Rock Auto.com is a good place for OEM stuff. Great prices, no BS, and they actually answer the phone and reply to e-mails

Steeev0....who welded the cross piece on top of the pumpkin? Your setup is kind of what i was thinking of doing to my R50, but i'm a little scared to weld anything to the pumpkin or axle shafts for fear of warpage...

Did the 2000's have problems with the rear bushings on the trailing arms? (Rear end wobble)

I like both the Jeeps and the 4runners....but i also like to be different and build Sh*t myself...reason why i've kept the R50. Main reason was where, and how often i off road it....I take it to the desert 99% of the time which is mostly sand and some rocks and never have any serious mud, so i don't really see the need to do a SAS on it YET! I know i'm not much help, but my two cents........

My 97 after a quick trip through some fire roads

Thanks for the offer too....Like i said, my lift kit is all straight cuts from 1/4" thick mild steel plate. Most pieces 5"x3". Unfortunately the plate is a huge 3 foot square and too big to fit on the mill. I'll have to cut it down on the band saw first, but i really want to cut the final pieces as straight as i can. I'll hit you guys up after the holidays with some drawings and measurements.

Thanks UNCC.....i'll have to work on the drawings after the holidays....next two month are booked solid with work and family. The first thing i'm building after the holidays is a 4.5" drop bracket system for my 97's front. I'll have to crawl around under my pathy to get the bolt hole measurements. all the pieces will be made from 1/4" steel plate and some 2x2 thick wall steel square tube. I'd post some pictuers of my protoypes but none of my pictures hosts will work! Always worked before! Here's a link to the pictures from my website Brackets

Welcome to the unsupported R50 Club.....Other R50 members can chime in anytime! Pezzy, Dean, anyone?

It's a DRO machine. all the cuts i want to do are straight. The few round cuts i do need i can do with t he portaband and jigsaw.....but i try to design everything with straight cuts I will be asking more specific DRO related questions as i get more in to it. Thanks for everyones input

Thanks for the offer on the CAD program, I have to do some cross training next month with the head machinist, so i'll see if he can give me the basics. I was also thinking of using one of the Mills to do the cutting. I can have the Head MAchinist teach me how to use the digital display thing on the mill to setup each cut. It's truly not steeling (pardon the pun)....My Manager (Maintenance Manager) has us put all scrap metal in a bin, then once a week the bin is brought to a recycling area we have on site for pickup. The metal is up for grabs by Maintenance, but you must have a form signed by him and the metal must be removed from the bin before it goes to the recycling area. The only thing we can't take is copper and brass.

Thanks for the feedback.....I already asked the metal suppliers and they won't cut pieces as small as i need. I need 3'x3' 1/4" Plate cut into 6-7" long X 3-4" wide pieces for backets and bracing. Fortunately i've been getting my steel for free (No it's not stolen), my company makes all their own equipment and the left overs are tossed in the recycle bin. The sizes i get aren't consistant, but 2x2 thick wall square tube and 1/4" thick plate is abundant. Great idea on the CAD drawing thing. I have access to CAD at work....not that i know how t use it! But i know i could bribe our machine shop supervisor with some libations......

Does anyone have access to or know of a shop with a Waterjet, or laser cutter in SoCal? I am seriously ready to start building, sliders, skid plates, lift kits (Copied Tyler's design). I have fairly large quantity of steel and have built several items for friends (Not Pathy owners but i don't hold a grudge). Would be so nice to have the steel cut for me. I know it wouldn't be cheap, but i can't find anyone locally that will even give me a price because they're not open to the public or i don't have enough cuts. I guess i could make friends with jesse James @ West Coast Choppers and use his machine....Sorry, fell asleep for a minute....i'm back to reality

X2

I'm with Dean on the EVAP possibililty....I had the same smell a while back, and it turned out the charcoal inside my canister broke loose and clogged all the vacuum line leading from the canister (Behind the drivers side rear wheel) all the way to the engine....I drilled 3/4" holes in the canister, emptied the charcoal, glassed up the holes, blew out the lines, pulled apart and cleaned the valve under the hood, reset the puter and so far (crossed fingers) everythings been OK.

I used to live in Vista but now i'm up in Murrieta....The only places i know in SD are the area down by the border and Corral Canyon....Now i go out to a small area in Vista, Ocotillo, De Luz/Fallbrook, Santiago Peak (Lake Elsinore, off the 74 North Side) and a small area in Wildomar (Off the 74 South Side).

"Lowers Head In Shame"...Started wheeling with a 88 Cherokee Limited with street tires at Corral Canyon in San Diego. Scared the crap out of me...i was too scared to put it in 4WD...thought i'd break something....I've owned three Pathy's since and i love them....my latest 97 R50 has been off road the most and is now my dedicated off road/Home Depot truck....the mods are adding up quickly. I think i'm addicted more to the modding than i am the actually off roading!

RockAuto.com has them for $66.79. KYB PN 335030(Right) & 335031(Left)

KYB GR2's are some of the best.

Use some degreaser and clean everything up really good, then watch it and see where it's coming from. Most likely from the oil pan gasket, but you might be able to lift it up and look reallly good to find the wet spot or at least where it is the most wet

I think the stamp you're talking about is the "C.A.R.B" stamp. I think it stands for California Air Resources Board or something like that.

Your 2001 FSM says on Page EC-484 that it's the Left Side. I've quoted the page below. You can download your FSM HERE DTC P1140 (RIGHT, -B1), P1145 (LEFT, -B2) INTAKE VALVE TIMING CONTROL POSITION SENSOR (CIRCUIT Component Description NAEC0705 Intake valve advance unit position sensors are located in the front cylinder heads in both right/left banks. This sensor uses a Hall IC (element). The cam position is determined by the intake primary cam sprocket concave (in three places). The ECM provides feedback to the intake valve timing control for appropriate target valve open-close timing according to drive conditions based on detected cam position. CONSULT-II Reference Value in Data Monitor Mode NAEC0706 Specification data are reference values. MONITOR ITEM CONDITION SPECIFICATION INT/V TIM (B1) INT/V TIM (B2) I Engine: After warming up I Shift lever “N” I Quickly depressed accelerator pedal I No-load Idle 0° CA 2,000 rpm Approximately 12 - 18° CA