kmgar99

Linky's don't work for me...what did you title the videos at YouTube?

Fram is the same brand that you buy at 90% of the parts stores like AutoZone, Western Auto, PepBoys, etc....And BTW, why is Fram CRAP! Not that i thinks its the best....but just wondering

Just about finished with mine, thanks to TrailChaser....Need to cut the hole in the fender....This is the part i hate...i'll post some pictures in a separate post tomorrow. Thnxs TrailChaser!

Thanks man, Thats's what i was planning on doing. I need to see if i can heat up and bend my 2" ABS (like that'll work) I need to bend the horizontal pipe down about 3 degrees so my vertical pipe is level. I should have used PVC, much easier to heat and bend.

how did you figure out where to cut the fender? I think if i attache a short piece to the last 90 and rehang the fender, i could reach up inside the fender and mark around the pipe with a sharpie?! But that's the only way i can think, measuring on th outside of the fender is hard since you don't have the same refrence points without the fender as you do with it on....That is my last obstacle!

Don't go to the Stealership! I got mine at WallyWorld (WalMart) for under $6USD.

Thnxs, it took longer to take and upload the pictures than it did to fix the spoiler....

The thing that gets me with that water to fuel thing is the way it's advertised. In theory it works....we actually use a much larger system here to create hydrogen gas that we use to burn in some small natural gas generators that are used to produce electricity to run some huge pieces of production equipement. BUT....we pump the hydrogen gas into a combustion system desiged to burn a gas, not a liquid/gas(air) system like a car. Do a Google search on Brown's Gas and you'll see some conflicting info. Here's one that's kind of interesting....don't how legitimate it is... Brown's Gas

I hate the front end! It looks like they desinged everyhting but the front end, then slapped something together at the very last minute so it could go to production....But for less than $19K for 200HP and a full warranty for 100,000, i think it was a good deal.

CNN Money is reporting Western europe around $5.00 a gallon USD. They list VENEZUELA around $.14 a gallon USD! You get around 2,000 Venezuela Bolivares per 1 USD. So gas must be less than $500 Bolivar. Then again Venezuela produces a ton of their own gas and the government subsidizes a ton of it too.

No longer drive the Pathy except when wheeling....bought a commuter car....kept it Nissan (Sentra SER SPec-V) 30MPG freeway baby! Rated for 32MPG but only if driven really slow....which is not in my nature....push it really hard i get 28MPG. Works out great since i drive 80 miles a day (75 on the freeway). Pathy was only getting me 13-14 on the freeway since my drive is extremely hilly.

The clips look like a smaller version of what holds the sides of the rear bumper on. They also look like the same clips used to hold door panels on. Just use a screw driver with a rag protecting the truck and pop it off. You'll probably have to get new clips anyway.

Do you have a FSM? I'll look it up and see what it says

AMEN I did it once....killed the battery twice before it finally started. start vehicle, Killed battery, remove from vehicle and charge for 5 hours, re-install battery, attempt to start vehicle again.....Now repeat

I couldn't get my rear axle to drop enough on eith side to "Pull" out the springs. I even jacked up the opposite side but still wouldn't come out. My brake lines, and panhard rod were limiting me, so i had to use a spring compressor. I've been helping some friends with a "heap" build and another with a Tacoma build and we figured out that no two vehicles are the same, even if they're the same make, model, year, and options.

Check out Dean's site or mine for pictures. Dean's Mine

Check out my website. I pulled off the spoiler and resprayed it. Rear Spoiler

Great picture to use anywhere.....I thought it was great!

Man that was three years ago...i don't remember how much. i tried to find the part number too but no deal.....I can't remember an hour ago never mind three years. If your not doing any hardcore off roading then the ones from AC should be fine, but i'm a stickler for beefy steel parts that hold my truck together.

I got my bolts from K-mac in australia. They are a lot beefier the the others i've seen. Check em out at K-Mac suspension

I found all the sensors at Rock Auto.com....they have the OEM and univerals. the universals run abot $50 each and the OEMs about $75

No kidding on the stopping! I hauled 2500lbs of porcelin in the back of my Pathy. I already have the AC 2" lift coils and Bilsteins on the back.....they performed wonders....kept me from bottoming out and stay very stable for that much weight.....i've also changed the rear upper and lower control arm bushings, so that helped too. Change the rear shocks and springs, and don't forget the rear bushings....the bushings will really help eliminate side to side wobbling.....

Dean, that things awesome! I'm getting ready to pick up some different length coils and that would come in handy. I just picked up some used coil overs from the junk yard....i really want to see if i can make something like this work on the pathy.

I have a few shots on my website when i did the lift install. http:\\kmgar.tripod.com I haven't had a chance to finish my website, so not all the photos are posted. Don't forget to get the Camber adjusting bolts (replaces the uppper where the strut mounts to the spindle). I got mine from http://www.k-mac.com.au/ Tools: Two strut spring compressors (Go on the outside of the spring, unlike the coil spring compressors that go inside the spring) Impact wrench Metric sockets up to 22mm (I think 22mm is the largest i used) Metric Wrenches Metric Allen wreches Small Sledge hammer Drive Pins Pry bars Good quality jack stands

Some aftermarket parts suppliers still show the T15 available....You might want to do a search for TJM bumpers for your year...I did it for my 1997 and found Tellico4x4.com shows them in stock for 1996-1999 Pathfinders Part #A1510A