adamzan
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Posts posted by adamzan
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You'll also have the door ajar and tire carrier warning light if your truck has one of those. They are dead center in the row of warning lamps.
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When I had to do mine, I took the sunroof glass and new seal to a glass shop, they charged me like $20 cash to install it, still good 5 years later!
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On 1/2/2023 at 2:42 AM, Slartibartfast said:
Maybe the previous owner fought this too, and the 180 thermostat was their fix. I don't know why else you'd put a higher-than-stock-temp thermostat in something.
Try living where I live, where it routinely gets to -30. The 170F stat in my 95 just would never cut it so I put a 180 in it. Just enough difference to actually de-ice the windows.
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It should have the instructions for that on one of the sun visors. Mine does. It's nice to take out in the summer time!
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@SlartibartfastI saw a tan interior on a 94 or 95 LE once. It had leather and not cloth. Didn't look too bad but the grey suits the truck better for sure.
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It's really weird because you'd think that would cause higher than normal temps... My parents r50 when the water pump went it would overheat (but not completely boil over) at speed because the impeller was slipping.
You say the sensor tested good as well, is the wiring ok? No crazy resistance from the connector to wherever it ends in the harness? Sometimes moving old wires around makes problems lol. Have you thought about installing an after market temp gauge for testing?
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170F is pretty low temp wise, Nissan seems to run the VQ hot, like 95C hot. I didn't see it mentioned anywhere, but was this an oem thermostat or an aftermarket? I have seen aftermarket ones test fine but be just out of the OE spec enough during operation to cause these problems. The Nissan thermostats can handle varying the flow better vs the aftermarket ones that seem to just open full blast at the rated temp.
My Xterra (VG33ER not 4.0) will barely get up to the factory rated 170F temp in the winter here when driving. I have to cover half the rad if not more with cardboard to get good heat.
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Yeah, the ssl cert for the site is expired. I'll PM Redpath about it.
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Mine did this and it was too much toe in. Have the alignment re checked, it would be amplified x100 in 4wd.
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All these issues sound like a ground problem. Did you run a separate ground for the radio or just have it grounding through the antenna (the actual ground in aftermarket harnesses doesn't connect on these trucks, they use the antenna and the metal dashboard frame as ground).
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If it does a 360 it's likely the plastic bits inside the door have broken, it was kind of common, take the door panel off and look.
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I'm pretty sure they are the same for the VG30 and 33. You can also check nissan part numbers at courtesyparts.com.
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Pulled mine into the garage for the winter. I've committed myself to a DIY restore of the thing. So that will start with replacing the crunched in drivers rear quarter behind the tire. Had another member here slice the part off of their parts rig so hopefully that goes okay. I will post pictures of course.
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Since you're in Ontario, I have a spare glove box from my parts truck that you can have, if you end up breaking yours. From my 94 round dash.
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It is the door lock timer box itself. Mine did it as well. Only in the cold weather, it was due to the solder joints cracking on the board. I re flowed the solder on them and never had another problem. IIRC it is behind the panel in the drivers side cargo area. Just have someone actuate the locks and you'll hear it.
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I know some of them didn't come with the bulb for the engine light or the label for it, but apparently if you take the cluster out and fill in any missing bulbs, one of them is actually the engine light. Dumb, I know.
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11 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
I've heard of this with the old WD21 RE4R01A. What happens from what I've read is that one particular snap ring breaks and chews up a sealing surface, which limits your line pressure (because fluid is bypassing internally). Reverse needs the most line pressure, so it's the first to suffer, especially when the fluid is warm and shoots past the damaged seal more easily. Sooner or later the part finishes failing and you lose the other gears. I thought the revised transmission that you've got had this failure mode revised out, but it sure does sound like it's found a way.
Before assuming the worst, I would run codes on it, on the off chance the computer has another idea. AT-49 of the '03 manual (download from Nicoclub if you haven't) tells you how to run codes without the Consult scanner. The computer should be able to tell you if there's a wiring fault. Failing that, check the harness for any obvious damage. I wouldn't expect a wiring fault to only act up when cold, but it's worth a look. I would also check the fluid level, warmed up, on flat ground, at idle, though the last trans I saw with low fluid slipped when cold.
AT-356 has specs for line pressure. I assume there's a diagram elsewhere showing where to connect a test gauge to get those numbers.
If it's shot anyway, can't hurt to drop the pan and have a poke around, though I wouldn't go in expecting a miracle.While it sounds like it is the issue they have, it certainly isn't a common failure point on the 2001+ RE4R01A. There are loads of first gen xterras around with 250K+ on the original transmission.
When my 1995 lost reverse it would work fine in the cold when the fluid was thick. But I believe it is more a varnish issue than broken parts, simply because adding a can of seafoam trans tune would literally "Fix" it for months at a time.OP I would try flushing the fluid out and testing the line pressure. If it's low, you know where to go from there.
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The xterra hoses are pretty different, I have an xterra and a pathfinder. Pathfinder uses banjo bolts while the xterra has a flared fitting, like a large brake line to the steering box. A lot easier to just use the adapter (which really is just a new balancer your pulley set bolts to), than futz around with making custom ps and ac lines. Plus I didn't have to discharge my aircon.
I just want what drops in the easiest and won't be too much hassle for anyone in the future who has to order parts or work on it.
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Did you use an oem distributor or an aftermarket? The aftermarket ones are dodgy at best, I had to warranty mine 3 times before I got a good one. The 2nd one lasted 10km...
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Easier to just remove the plenum. It isn't that hard and your hands will thank you.
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If you have the adjustable shocks still there's a good chance they are pretty worn out by now. If you can find some new old stock they are great if not the bilstein ones make an excellent replacement.
20 Years!
in Off-Topic
Posted
What do you mean you aren't tired of seeing the same posts bragging about how cheap they could fix/do something? The first gen xterra pages are even worse.