adamzan
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Posts posted by adamzan
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The bigger hardware stores like fastenal and brafasco tend to carry that kind of stuff.
Where did you find it? Would be good to link here!
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Damn I've never seen that happen before. Usually the thing that wears out is the part that pushes on the reverse light switch, only on manuals.
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The primary ones (which is what the ECU monitors and what matters) are hard to reach on these rigs from underneath, but the secondary ones could be easily cut out. I haven't heard of it happening much on this board but that's not to say it hasn't happened. Maybe one of the cages from the other vehicles could fit on the r50? It's a problem where I live too (Canada) but it seems mostly isolated to toyota and honda.
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Good to hear. Not that you need it but you'll have better heat with the warmer stat too. Makes a big difference where I live!
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10 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
It's easy to forget about the diffs. They don't need attention very often, so they get put off and forgotten about. For the most part, they seem to hold up alright anyway, so long as the oil doesn't leak out, water doesn't leak in, and you don't beat the hell out of them. Like most things, the diff will probably last longer and run better if you keep good lube in it, but it's not gonna turn into the other kind of pumpkin if you don't adhere to the schedule exactly.
Reminds me, I should change the oil in my front diff at some point. For all I know, it's been in there since the truck left Kyushu.
At least these rigs the front diff has probably been so sparingly used since they don't turn with the hubs unlocked.
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On 3/7/2023 at 7:42 PM, Frenchy said:
Even with the higher quality of lubricants today Nissan still recommends every 30K for the Diff and Transmission for vehicles today. That said not many folllow it because many have the mindset that "maintenance is a scam!".
That's like the people that never do the brake fluid or transmission fluid changes and then wonder why they are always replacing stuck or leaking calipers and have to get the trans rebuilt every 75k.
I have also notice these are the same people who call dealerships "stealerships".
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If you don’t off-road or tow anything you can probably go longer on the differentials. Especially with the higher quality of todays lubricants.
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You should be able to make it work if they are both the same motor. For 2wd and 4wd you will have to swap the tail housing of your transmission onto the donor so the transfer case will bolt up
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What did that freshly cut looking white wire go to before? Also goes into the mess of tape with the red wire. Also check the meter fuse inside the cab and see if it is blown.
Have you spoken to the mechanic after this? These trucks aren't that complicated electrically, and don't use canbus or anything. I can't believe they just gave you the vehicle back like this... Insane.
Maybe the best bet is to hit a wrecking yard and grab some factory cables and get rid of this mess. Or a part out on here.
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Can you share a pic of the connections at the battery? I want to see what the mechanic did. Sounds like they caused more harm than good.
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Yeah, the link doesn't bend the joint wears out (this is coupled with a worn idler arm usually, keep that in good shape and the CL will last way longer) and starts the whole system twisting.
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Yea that sounds like a failed transmission cooler line, should be fairly easy to fix. Maybe on turns the fluid is so low that it introduces air into it somewhere. They are like a differential with a vent, so not a complete airtight seal.
Any dexron 3 compatible fluid will work, but the Nissan Matic D is the best fluid for these transmissions.
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Moog parts used to be great 15 years ago but the quality has taken a serious nosedive. Ever since they had that massive factory/warehouse fire.
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Is the fluid red or brown, does it have a rancid smell to it?
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Replaced alternator belt on the 2004 Xterra today. It flew off in the parking lot at work, but 2 little cords held on and I got home on that. Not fun in this cold, my hands were sticking to the pulleys and tools!
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Would it be possible to re pin the ecu connector or something like that? A bit more work but idk.
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I know that feeling. I have to keep a battery maintainer on it now otherwise it will just die.
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Mine sits a lot assuming yours does as well? I had similar symptoms and just attribute it to the flywheel having rust on it. It will shudder on take off also.
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On 2/21/2023 at 7:41 AM, Slartibartfast said:
The computer just assumes you've got the distributor in the right place. It has no other reference to check it against. And, yeah, it has to be checked and set under the right conditions. I set mine cold once and it was way off once it warmed up. If you set it cold, with the timing light set wrong, who knows where it was set.
I imagine increasing the advance would wake it up, to a point, until it starts pinging. No idea how far you can get away with on one of these. If it wasn't pinging, and didn't throw a knock sensor code, it probably didn't hurt anything. Might give you issues if you towed with it like that, though.
I know I had my old 1994 way over advanced at 20 or 25 because the distributor was messed up. I didn't know any better at the time but damn did it ever have a lot more power lol.
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I would also switch the automatic hubs to manual ones if you're going to lift it and wheel it. The automatic ones are good for daily drivers but on the trail they can unlock when backing up/rocking the truck and you'll lose drive to the front wheels at the worst possible time, lol.
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It will increase the CV angle but the best part about the wd21 is the hubs are unlocked when not using 4wd so they are not spinning 100% of the time like newer vehicles do. I have had the same lift as that on my rig for going on 14 years and still have the same CV shafts. You can also get differential drop down bushings to lower the front diff to compensate.
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IIRC it is a fine thread pitch, like 1.5 or 1.75 and no one around here had one at the time (it is also a nylock nut). I ended up getting it at Nissan but I didn't have to pay shipping, just picked it up from the dealer.
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Nice looking truck. Mine is also a black 95 SE. Bought it from a lady who moved to Toronto from North Van in 2007, so it only saw a couple of Ontario winters.
The issue with whole fan thing is that the stock fans work great for everything but these rigs are pushing 28 years old at the youngest, all the foam and crap around the radiator and condenser to keep the airflow going across is long since rotted away. Also if you have the bottom half of your fan shroud missing that doesn't help either, most body lifted ones are missing it. So I guess you can go e-fan if you want or try to rebuild the stock setup.
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On 2/16/2023 at 12:50 PM, SpecialWarr said:
I overheard a worker that inspections were going to be instituted in the next few years and that anything "non-compliant" is going to be pulled off the roads.... overheard at the SAAQ Ste-Agathe last year when I was waiting to register the Xterra!
I've overheard the same thing in Ontario for a few years but nothing has come around yet.
It's funny because the most derelict cars/trucks I've ever seen have all come from the QC side lol.
Loud squel
in General Forums
Posted
Sounds like the belts are worn or stretched. You can try tightening them up but if it has been happening for a while they're probably glazed. If you don't know when they were last changed, they are pretty cheap to replace.