5523Pathfinder

Flush that transmission or drop the pan and see whats going on. Then, add that external trans cooler!

I think it would be eaiser to get two 5 gallon buckets, fill one with fluid, and use the other to drain. One hose would suck in the fluid, the other would spit it out. The level wont change much if you dont let it run dry.

I use a machine that hooks up inline on the trans line. The company we lease it from says it flushes 99% of the fluid out, including the torque converter. I love that machine, you can even watch the fluid change colors so you know whats going on. BG TransFlush, $149. Oh, and letting the trans get dry, not a very good idea in my book. If you need to clean your stock cooler, if you dont have a different one, you can get a can of Transmission Cooler Cleaner at most parts stores. Nissan dealers even stock them(well, at least mine does. We have to use it for warrenty repairs.) under a nissan part number. But the 1 bucket of fluid and one empty trick could work on the cheap, might get messy though.

Hmmm, well thats definately a 3.3 in a Xterra in that photo. I would wait to see it on a 3.0. I would think bolting on a supercharger from a 3.3 to a 3.0 would mechanically easy, but electrically, thats another story. I have pondered this for a while. Even aquired a supercharger from a Xterra to eventually play with.

Try a long #3 phillips. It has a bigger face and can grab the screw. Or try tapping on the end of the driver with a hammer, do this while turning. Just dont overdo it. A impact driver would be the next thing to try.

Anyone ever install a Flex-o-lite fan set up?

You can pinch the fuel lines as they go to the fuel rail. As someone else cranks, you can feel the fuel pulse. I would check for spark also. Any codes or check engine light? Oh, when you turn the key on, not start, can you hear the pump make a buzz sound for a few seconds?

Ouch! Insurance cover it?

We use BG products at my work. There is a in tank additive, one to clean the intake and valve and also one to run through injectors. Good products! Prices vary upon what you have done.

If your going to do some towing, check this out for some ideas... http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/projects/pathfinder.php

Welcome! Time to eject 2 Fast 2 Furious and install wheeling video!

Well, I know the nissan belt is directional. The arrows point toward you when you put it on the the part numbers are not upside down. I would try and set it up the same. PCI, never heard of it. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?act=At...=post&id=204051

I had a lady come into our parts department looking for a 710 cap. I figured that one out before our parts guys. You just shake your head and walk away.

Well a seal puller is best, but Ive used a small flatblade screwdriver to slide under the seal and push the screwdriver sideways and should pop the seal out. Be careful not to scratch the cam surface.

With the fuel issue, did you run a fuel return line back to the tank? Ive seen return lines on carb setups to reduce overpressurizing. Just like fuel injection, you can make the pump work too hard if there is excess pressure. Plus, you dont want that extra fuel in the line warming up, that can eventually cause other issues.

Yep, the interlock relay has caused plenty of problems. Should have two connectors plugging into it. I usally give it a tap with a screwdriver and they fire right up. It would not cause a slow crank though. IF thats the case, like 88 said, tighten those cables.

A welcome to the FNG! You ever watch Porkys? "Whats with the eggs?" "What eggs" "Those eggs!" "Oh, there for you" "For me? What do mean for me?" "There for you!" *Splat* "Your dead!"

Well, according to its description, it should be very easy to install. Plugs right into the OBDII port under the dash. It sounds like it will give you realtime info on what the sensors are doing. Cant see much of a performance additive in it, but at least you will know what it going on!

Its the same pic thats in his profile. Lowrider, Nice by the way. Way to represent the nissans.

Nice! I won with 17 seconds left on the first try! Im not sure if thats something to be proud of.

Im guessing you mean the left front axle? You may have the t-bars cranked too much. After the last time I replaced the cv boots, I dropped mine down a little to reduce the angle of the cv axle. If you broke out at the wheel, well, there could of been something not put together right, or who knows.

Cool, my question has been answered.

$205 for A/C's without zerks, $315 for superlift with zerks. When I installed the zerks on mine it only took about 15 minutes to drill, tap and install all of them. I guess someone will need to chime in here who has had a problem with the A/C arms. Still cant see paying a extra 100 bucks for zerks(that is if there are not other problems).

So are the upper arms from A/C not liked by too many? I like mine and havent had any major problems. I havent had any issues after I drilled and installed grease zerks. http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...3279bd5e1da0a45

Put the ECU into fail-safe by disconnecting the Air flow meter and see if it runs better. Check codes first, though.