5523Pathfinder

Welcome! I like the color. Enjoy the site and all it has to offer!

This link has what I looked up in the Motorsports catalog about the front lsd... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11845&hl=300z

If you have a 3.5, it is nothing like the 3.0 or 3.3. You dont need the little spark plug tool.

Dont worry, we still like you!

Welcome....and thats a lot of snow!

Try this one for starters. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...0&hl=tachometer The reason I say search is that some topics have been beaten like a whiteboy in the hood. Some, and I say some, members may not respond if you havent searched. No hard feelingss though. Kind of a normal process for new people. Oh yeah, did you intro yourself in the new members thread? It helps with hellos.

I would do some searching on here, its a pretty common problem. A easy repair would be to remove the cluster assembly, loosen then tighten all of the little brass screws that hold the gauges and printed circuit. Its worth a shot instead of paying for a new tach.

Welcome! Hows the snow treating you?

Welcome!

Here are some tips from our ASIST computer. Maybe they can help... Symptoms: Whenever the ignition key is on, the ABS light remains on. No codes are stored in self-diagnosis. Pin 12 at the ABS control unit has no power (power supply from ignition relay #2). The 'L' wire at ignition relay #2 has 0 voltage with the key on. Field fix: The 'L' wire is powered from a 20a fuse in the fuse box (7th from the right, bottom row). This fuse had voltage at both sides when probed with a test light, but the 'L' wire terminal contact for the fuse was spread. Pin 12 at the ABS control unit has battery voltage after tightening the fuse terminal, and ABS light operation returned to normal. See page BR-34 of the '94 Truck/ Pathfinder service manual for ABS system preliminary checks. Symptoms: Anti-lock brake system (ABS) light on dash stays on with engine running. Self-diagnosis showed no trouble codes. Field fix: While checking fuse for ABS system, found there was no power at the 'L' wire, location 303M (ignition relay no. 2). Traced wire to fuse box, and found the (-) side fuse terminal was not making contact with the fuse. Repaired fuse terminal to resolve incident. Other than those helping you, it sounds like a wiring issue. Make sure the ABS control unit is plugged in properly. Also check the wiring to the rear ABS actuator.

Backfiring? Does it have spark? Timing belt fail? Make sure the distributor is turning by hand cranking the engine. If ok, crank and check for spark.

You may want to get a long phillips screwdriver and check the cover screws. They come loose and can create a leak. To save you some time and money, just tighten them and clean the oil up. Otherwise, the passenger side valve cover is fairly easy, the drivers side is the bad one.

Ok, I guess what Im not seeing here is what engine you have. In 2001, you should have a 3.5l. The spark plug procedure is like that in the link. A couple of extensions, pliers, 10mm socket to remove the bolts holding the coils and the plug socket is all you need. Getting the coils out can be a little fun. The engine harness can get in the way on the passenger side. Just remove the bolts on the support bracket pull the harness back and it helps with access. You dont need to remove the throttle body to change #4. I usally just remove the Idle Air contol motor just below the throttle body(phillips screwdriver). The screws can be a pain sometimes, just use patience. They are a 105k spark plug if your wondering.

So I did the 3+3 and 33's. First of all the truck looks awsome. There is no other pathys around that look like it(I like to be different). Now, for function..Off road there is plenty of clearance without getting too tippy. On road, it is a daily driver, so gas mileage sucks, a few pops and squeaks. But once again, it looks good. I get compliments from Jeep guys now and again. That much change makes the pathy look grown up. Other than that, lost a centerlink, CV boot and exhaust hanger. It would be nice to be able to just bolt up some sliders and a ARB without modifying for the bodylift. Oh well, I still like it!

Yep the sizing is different. Also, the hub size is different also. I always liked the rims off of the supercharged Xterra/Frontier. I was going to get a set before I lifted.

Dang! Thats shweet! Welcome You should find plenty of info here. Gotta love those hanging torsion bars!

Ooooh, I like it!

Sounds like you got water in the ecu. Remove it, set is somewhere dry and static free, remove the cover and let sit for a while. I have seen people soak them, let them dry and they worked, luckily. Otherwise, dry up the water in the vehicle and dry any connectors that may have got water in them.

Yeah, you got to olve the welcomes around here. Glad to have ya around! Welcome!

Actually, it allows you to start the engine without pushing in the clutch. Its best to be done in neutral. Just turn the ignition on, push the button, then start the engine. Oh, and yes, you will move if its in gear.

Whats going on everybody in the PNW? So, I am down here in Olympia and most of these storms that have pushed through hardly bother us. I know some to the north get it a lot worse. So, I think everyone should post something(pic or description) about what its been like for them. This winter is for the record books. Personally, here at my place, we only saw a little snow and ice back in November. The windstorm knocked out power for not even 24 hrs. No other damage at the house or my work. I am hoping there will be something to photograph with this new storm, but then again, maybe not.

I guess it depends upon how much you are going to use it. In my job, I bought a scan tool from Matco. I got a killer deal on it, but normally its really expensive. I can look at a lot of different voltages and such to help the repair process. Some tools will only do engine codes, some will do more like Airbag, ABS, CAN/LAN systems and other contol modules that can create codes. You might want to look on Ebay or Craigslist in your area for a good deal. Or go cheap and visit the local parts store and see what they have. Oh, mine does connect to the computer if needed. There are updates that you can purchase also(software downloads). It also runs circles around the Snapon scanner the rest of the guys use in the shop.

Welcome!

Into which gear are you having trouble with? I know some people have a hard time from 4lo to 4hi because the move the stick too slow. Maybe a lubricant issue?

Maybe a vacuum leak? If they are compensating with more fuel, then air has to be getting in somewhere.