5523Pathfinder

Thanks 88! You da man! We all owe you a drink . I was acutally having to work at work. Glad its back!

First of all welcome! Let me ask a few questions. Have you had it to any repair facility to have it checked out? Set codes could lead to to something. Is your K&N been oiled? If it has, oil may have got passed the filter and onto the Mass Airflow Sensor. There is a write up on here to clean it properly I think. Does it idle funny, rough, low, high? What kind of tune up parts did you use? Most everyone on here swears by NGK spark plugs, they do work well. Last, check your trans fluid color & smell. Make sure you dont have something major going on, hopefully not. Hope this helps you!

Maybe like the 240 guys using a 300ZX MAF or a Mustang MAF. I think the computer would need calibration for larger parameters though. Interesting! :gossip:

The injectors themselves are one piece, only the o-rings are serviceable. I imagine someone somewhere has rebuilt them. Some places can clean them(Dr. Injector). The injectors sit inside the rail and are fed fuel. No replacement of the rail is necessary. Its one piece and pretty dependable. Just remember to replace the o-rings as rule of thumb.

If you put your hand on top of the cap while its running, you will feel the vibration. Yeah, at 130k, your ready for timing belt #3!

If your timing belt is wearing, it will transmit noise and vibration through the distributor. When was it changed last?

Hey the new o-rings are cheap insurance if you ask me. I always replace them, I dont want to call the fire department when Im working on a car. Glad I could help.

Which injectors are they? If they are the 1-3-5 injectors, they are a piece of cake. Unscrew the screws on the caps, be sure to use the right size screwdriver or you will strip them. If you do, use a pair of vicegrips or something to get them off. To get the injector out, you will need to twist them back and fourth while pullling on them to get them to pop out. This may not be the easiest thing to do. I have had to pry on them to get them out with two flatblade screwdrivers. Once they are out and ready to reinstall, hopefully you replaced the o-rings, coat them with a little engine oil. The oil will lubricate the seals and help them slide into place. Pushing down on them will usually get them in, but you may need to seat them by reinstalling the caps. The oil may cause a slight misfire upon startup, but it will go away after a few minutes. Be sure to check for leaks right away. If you need to replace the 2-4-6 injectors then the intake will need to come off. Hope that helps.

The switch is on the center console by your E-brake. It has a little pic of a light on it. Mine is right next to the drivers seat. Remember, they may not work when you have you brights on.

Uhh, your airbag system probably has a problem. Shutting the light off isnt fixing anything. Here is a free diagnosis, its the airbag control unit. It has a internal failure and the light will come back on again. It has to be the most common problem with the system. IF you dont care, thats cool, but if you do, that control unit is quite spendy (i.e about $450 IIRC). Or if you dont care, just unplug the control unit under the center console.

I think the sensors and wiring might be a issue. Ive thought about installing a Xterra rear view mirror kit in mine. I would move the rear view mirror from the roof onto the glass though. But it has a built in compass and temp readout. The kit comes with all of the wiring and sensors. Ive actually installed a few and its pretty easy. I am not to sure of the price though. I was going to piece it together from warrantied kits that can still be used that are laying around at my work.

Using your pic, stand on the left side of the vehicle in front. Look just over the top of the brake master cylinder. It is part of the IACV valve, right on the back of the intake. You will need a long phillips screwdriver to adjust it, well it makes it easier. Messing with any of the screws on the trottle body can cause damage.

Nice job!

First of all, Welcome! You will be able to find everything you want on this site regarding your Pathfinder(you may have to search for some things). Yeah, the timeing belt is very important being the engines are interference motors. If the previous owner doesnt know when it was last replaced, check for any stickers or labels under the hood for recent, or last service. But replacing it is the best way to go, its good insurance also. There are write-ups about how to do it on here, just search and you will find! Once again, welcome and enjoy!

Hey, we get rained on almost all year. We need somewhere special to go to keep our sanity! Welcome MJFromPDX! Im in Oly, WA. Thats a smokin deal you got there!

Pop the battery out of the key fob. It may be sending a signal without pushing the button. If you have a second, try to use it and not the other for a while.

The majority of buyers of the newer pathfinder want them to drive like cars. They want a vehicle that performs well on-road, because that is where they spend most of thier time. The new pathfinders are very nice to drive. The most power and control I have ever experienced. The new frame and suspension are very versital, with the exception of the rear suspension. Rear independent suspension, definitly not in the pathfinder heritage. The problem I see here at my dealer, is that the pathfinder is getting overlooked by buyers. It is blurred inbetween the Xterra and the Armada. Its kind of both vehicles. I would like to see nissan take a chance and build something that is just way different for the Pathfinder. I know that there is some designer out there that looks at the name Pathfinder and doesnt see it rolling around the mall parking lot. He sees it as a working mans SUV, or wait, is that the Xterra? See what I mean. The next redesign has to be a homerun, or we may see the Pathfinder go away. Thats my 2 cents. Maybe a rebadged Patrol? oooh, that would be nice.

Try these.... http://www.spencerlowracing.com/products/ http://www.stillen.com/product_list.aspx?m...d=517&year=1997 http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_results.asp There are others out there, just have to do some searching. Hope this helps.

The VQ motors have thier own difficulty. The #4 plug is the hardest. The throttle body needs to be removed. Other than that the coils come out individually. They just take a little time. The plugs will last 100k.

If we are not laughing and having fun, then what are we doing? We have a salesman from our jeep store that walks by our shop and yells "MOPAR" at least 2 times a day. He does it just to get a rise out of us nissan boys.

Yeah, the 200sx in the states is just a 2 door sentra with 2 different engine options(1.6 or 2.0). The 240sx was only here until 1998 . Ive helped build a couple of the 2.0L for several of our customers. One would of spanked a TT 300zx. Plus, with a few mods, those cars are fun to drive!

No plugs were firing? Bad crank sensor, coil, transistor....oohh, ecm failure maybe? Check codes and post it.

better call ups ASAP! You have the tracking number and purchase confirmation so you should be cool. Unfortunatly more waiting

For a R50.... http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_....asp?PartID=364 Thats what I installed on the Q.

This is on my brothers QX4, But I installed the same thing. Note the silver support bracket. I had to bend mine a little to use a factory bolt hole. http://groups.msn.com/nissan4x4/mybothersq...oto&PhotoID=374 Here is for the filter assembly... http://www.stillen.com/product_detail.aspx?sku=402920 (previous link was incorrect and replaced)