Eli

Sounds like worn lower control arm bushings. Check 'em out...if they are worn, they'll quickly lead to dangerous "speed wobbles."

Also, • The jump-up steering column • The automatic heating/air-conditioning system • The seats being low to the floor for that sporty feel • The cargo tie-downs/net for the rear cargo area • The E-AT adjustable automatic transmission And the fact that I drive over obsticles that make Wrangler owners ask "How come *his* wheels didn't come off the ground like mine did?" :-)

I've done the relay setup, too. You just remove the wires from the headlights and send them to the relay on-off terminal. Then wire the headlights through the relay power terminals. Make sure you switch out the 20A headlamp fuses with 5A fuses for the relays.

Parts for truck grill swap are grill (duh), headlight buckets, headlights. Bolt on affair. I can't find the part numbers for the E-code Pathfinder lights right now, but I'll do some digging and see if I can find a current source. Used to be available through dealer parts through Nismo catalog, but the catalog is *very* different now :-(

Mods at time of swap: Thorley Headers, cone intake, 8mm plug wires. Results after JWT ECU exchange. Better torque above 4800 rpm, i.e. quicker to get out of 2nd gear and into 3rd under full throttle getting on the freeway (i'm talking auto trans, here), and MUCH easier getting out of 3rd and into 4th under full throttle. Basically, I wouldn't trade back to the factory ECU ;-) These motors need all the help you can afford!

You can do a core exchange (at least you can with Automotive Customizers) so you don't have down time.

I have this blurry one... If you want to see something specific, lemme know, and I'll start a new thread and take some digital pics.

3 choices: Good: • Replace bulbs with a "whiter" light such as PIAA or Sylvania SilverStar Better: • Nismo E-code (European) headlights, replace factory headlights in the factory grill Best: • Replace grill with truck grill and install aftermarket 5"x7" rectangular headlights, such as Hella Xtreme Vision, or Delta Technologies HID lamps.

you talkin' to me?

New ECU from Jim Wolf Racing is available at Automotive Customizers. It's expensive, but if you've done anything else to your VG30E, you'll know that already. I doubt you'd get any better program than the one they offer. **Happy Customer**

This one's a perfect fit:

Since I'm all tuned up, calibrated, and passing emissions with ease (not to mention the complete diagnositc I just received, including O2 sensor), and the fact that my rig and gear weighs in at just under 5000 lbs with me in it.....I guess I better lay off the gas! F*ck that! I didn't build the motor to lay off the gas ;-) LOL

Damn you economical fools! After heading down to my local speedometer shop a few years ago, I finally get my TRUE mpg, and after the performance rebuild....(drumroll please)...(and I have a lot of extra steel on and in the vehicle)...(and I have the 21.1 gallon tank)....(so without further ado :-)... around town, the worst I ever get is 11.0 mpg, which puts me at 232 miles (if I fill it up and then purposely run out of gas) last tank was 12.2 mpg, which puts me at 257 miles when I run out of gas, and 207 miles when I pull into the station on empty. and on the freeway, 13.5 mpg is the norm, which means that after 200 miles, I've gotta start looking for a fuel stop. Let's put it this way...I'VE BEEN SERIOUSLY CONSIDERING HAVING TRANSFER FLOW BUILD ME A 30-GALLON REPLACEMENT TANK!!!!

True! Just happened to me, but those bolts are easier to figure out, because your alignment shims fall out and you can feel the excess movement in the steering wheel, etc.

Just put another nut on after the first nut. It hangs way off the end, but solves the problem. The nut to nut friction keeps either one from backing off. (sorry about the gross innuendo :-) It's not that I forget about the situation (my mechanic does a thorough full undercarriage inspection every 3000 miles), it's that my UCA hasn't come loose again in well over 100,000 miles.

I had this problem persistantly. The solution is double nuts. Don't f- around with this problem - too dangerous. Double nut and forget about it.

I agree. I use factory Nissan gaskets at the collector. The metal Nissan gaskets need to be port-matched with a dremel or similar tool. The Thorley collector gaskets only last a few weeks :-(

Ok...the name of the part to control speeds 1,2,3 is the "blower resistor." If the blower resistor is bad, only level 4 (no resistance) will work.

No stock EXTERNAL trans cooler from the factory. A good external trans cooler (such as Haydens or B&M) will run you under $100.

Sorry if I wasn't clear, but you should FLUSH the transmission every time. The WD21 V6 trans runs too hot to leave ANY used fluid in it.

Ba advised that if you use a thicker oil, you'll keep the cams from getting proper oiling upon startup, which could be very bad in the long run. I got well over 100,000 miles with lifter tapping and 1 quart of oil burn per 2 tanks of fuel. It's a pain in the butt, but cheaper than the alternative. If you aren't experiencing oil burn, you want to rid the motor of obnoxious noises (for a while), and have some extra cash, consider getting some performance camshafts (ie eurospec or Isky), and replace your lifters and rockers. P.S. My lifters were VERY pitted on top from the bashing they took for all those years.

DANGER!!!!!! DANGER!!!!!! DANGER!!!!!! I'm on my THIRD automatic transmission, and have finally figured out how to make 'em last (@ $3,200+ a pop all said and done, I better have!). 1st, I FLUSH the transmission every 15,000 miles. This doesn't use detergent, but extra tranny fluid. Almost half of the old fluid is left in the torque converter upon tranny fluid draining, so there is A LOT of old, used, dark (ie non-lubricating) fluid left after a drain. I buy 12 quarts of Red Line High Temp ATF, and take it down to my Nissan dealer. He puts it in his tranny flusher at the END of the flush, and runs it ALL IN to fill the tranny AND torque converter with ATF. The killer of WD21 auto trans is HEAT, and the breakdown of tranny fluid due to that heat. You should do two other pro-active things to combat the heat problem. 1) Install a large (20,000+ GVRW) transmission cooler in front of the radiator. I run one inline with the factory cooler that is built into the Nissan radiator. 2) DO NOT use overdrive if you are a) driving at 35 mph or less anywhere, driving at 40 mph or less on a hilly road, c) towing ANYTHING, no matter how fast you are going (this keeps the torque converter locked, lowering heat tremendously). Also, if you must replace your AT, buy a remanufactured transmission, because they are built to a much higher standard than a new or rebuilt unit. Remans are available at your dealer or good transmission shops. STOP THE LIES!!! :-) The tranny fluid will be very dark after 15,000 miles...DO NOT wait for 30,000 miles like the manual says. When I bought my first extended warranty for the Pathfinder, part of the requirements for warranty satisfaction were oil changes at 3000 miles and auto trans fluid changes at 15,000 miles. Boy was I suprised at how dark the fluid was after just 15,000 miles. Sorry for the long post, but this is a matter near and dear to my heart. I've got well over 120,000 miles on my current tranny (after going through the first two at around 60,000 miles each).

The fan problem is the resistor in the heater controls. I'm not sure what the "official name" for the part is, but if you tell the guy at the Nissan Service counter what the problem is, he'll give you the part name/number. I've been through 2 of those in 260,000 miles.

I use Chuck at Burien Nissan...he's been working on Nissans for 30 years. Tell 'em Eli sent you. They know me well down there...been going for over 10 years.

All Pathfinder and Hardbody front clip parts exchange. Look at my sig pics :-) P.S. Those are the Nismo fiberglass bulging front fenders...