Eli

I agree. I use factory Nissan gaskets at the collector. The metal Nissan gaskets need to be port-matched with a dremel or similar tool. The Thorley collector gaskets only last a few weeks :-(

Ok...the name of the part to control speeds 1,2,3 is the "blower resistor." If the blower resistor is bad, only level 4 (no resistance) will work.

No stock EXTERNAL trans cooler from the factory. A good external trans cooler (such as Haydens or B&M) will run you under $100.

Sorry if I wasn't clear, but you should FLUSH the transmission every time. The WD21 V6 trans runs too hot to leave ANY used fluid in it.

Ba advised that if you use a thicker oil, you'll keep the cams from getting proper oiling upon startup, which could be very bad in the long run. I got well over 100,000 miles with lifter tapping and 1 quart of oil burn per 2 tanks of fuel. It's a pain in the butt, but cheaper than the alternative. If you aren't experiencing oil burn, you want to rid the motor of obnoxious noises (for a while), and have some extra cash, consider getting some performance camshafts (ie eurospec or Isky), and replace your lifters and rockers. P.S. My lifters were VERY pitted on top from the bashing they took for all those years.

DANGER!!!!!! DANGER!!!!!! DANGER!!!!!! I'm on my THIRD automatic transmission, and have finally figured out how to make 'em last (@ $3,200+ a pop all said and done, I better have!). 1st, I FLUSH the transmission every 15,000 miles. This doesn't use detergent, but extra tranny fluid. Almost half of the old fluid is left in the torque converter upon tranny fluid draining, so there is A LOT of old, used, dark (ie non-lubricating) fluid left after a drain. I buy 12 quarts of Red Line High Temp ATF, and take it down to my Nissan dealer. He puts it in his tranny flusher at the END of the flush, and runs it ALL IN to fill the tranny AND torque converter with ATF. The killer of WD21 auto trans is HEAT, and the breakdown of tranny fluid due to that heat. You should do two other pro-active things to combat the heat problem. 1) Install a large (20,000+ GVRW) transmission cooler in front of the radiator. I run one inline with the factory cooler that is built into the Nissan radiator. 2) DO NOT use overdrive if you are a) driving at 35 mph or less anywhere, driving at 40 mph or less on a hilly road, c) towing ANYTHING, no matter how fast you are going (this keeps the torque converter locked, lowering heat tremendously). Also, if you must replace your AT, buy a remanufactured transmission, because they are built to a much higher standard than a new or rebuilt unit. Remans are available at your dealer or good transmission shops. STOP THE LIES!!! :-) The tranny fluid will be very dark after 15,000 miles...DO NOT wait for 30,000 miles like the manual says. When I bought my first extended warranty for the Pathfinder, part of the requirements for warranty satisfaction were oil changes at 3000 miles and auto trans fluid changes at 15,000 miles. Boy was I suprised at how dark the fluid was after just 15,000 miles. Sorry for the long post, but this is a matter near and dear to my heart. I've got well over 120,000 miles on my current tranny (after going through the first two at around 60,000 miles each).

The fan problem is the resistor in the heater controls. I'm not sure what the "official name" for the part is, but if you tell the guy at the Nissan Service counter what the problem is, he'll give you the part name/number. I've been through 2 of those in 260,000 miles.

All Pathfinder and Hardbody front clip parts exchange. Look at my sig pics :-) P.S. Those are the Nismo fiberglass bulging front fenders...

If you don't do this type of work yourself, take it to a competant frame shop...the kind that works on ambulances, big rigs, etc..they'll help you for a good price....I know mine does.

FYI: I'm down here at Moab Jeep Safari and just talked to the Calmini guys. They said the SAS for the Pathfinder with coil over front and radius arms will take 35" tires and be ready for production in 3 months. So, as an example, if you have an SE-V6 with factory 31" tires and 4.625 gears, and want a similar ratio after the 35" tires, you'd run a 5.13 in the new Dana 44 front [(35"x4.625)/31"=5.22, but the largest gears available for the Dana 44 are 5.13 as far as I know]. In the rear factory H233B, you'd run 5.14 from Automotive Customizers (or another Nismo gear source). Might as well throw in some ARB air lockers while you're at it ;-)

Here's a tip: Take your Pathfinder to a FRAME shop, not some cheap front wheel alignment place. Although the Pathfinder does not need a 4-wheel alignment, its 3-way alignment (tie-rod, upper control arm shim, torsion bar level) is usually done incorrectly at a car alignment shop. And if your bushings are worn and you're keeping the vehicle, install a full set of Energy Suspension polyurethane front bushings (upper control arm pivot, lower control arm pivot, and torsion rod end). Without these, no alignment will be accurate for long.

FYI, I've got the Pathfinder version, and they're just as strong as the XTerra version

Aren't you a lucky son of a gun! Considering that the fuel tank capacity is 21.1 gal, and I get between 11.0 and 12.5 mpg around town, that gives me a range of....232–263 miles in the city. On the freeway, 15 mpg is more common, so 300 miles. You don't need to empty your tank to get your mpg. Down to 3/4 tank is supposed to get you a good estimate. BTW, many WD21 Pathfinders have speedometers that are way off right from the factory (mine was 20% fast from the factory!) This could throw your milage and fuel economy calculations WAY off! If you want to know for sure, visit your local speedometer calibration shop and have them properly calibrate your speedometer. It costs less than $100 for the Pathfinder.

May I recommend that you choose a stainless steel muffler such as DynoMax UltraFlo or MagnaFlow, so you only have to do this once? The Flow Master will be rusted out before you can say "what the hell does 'negative backpressure' really mean?"

Nice work! I can't believe you fit that all in so well! Here's a picture of my oil filter relocation. I did this just to get the filter away from over the starter, so I use a standard size filter. No oil mess on anything important this way. (BTW, for orientation purposes, the filter is in front of the right front wheel...I had Donahoe Racing in Anaheim, CA do this for me during the front shock hoop fabrication). Also, I use a Fram Tough Guard filter, which has much better flow than a standard Fram filter.

Here's the last grill... it's not made anymore, but this was my look for the 90's...chrome is back in fashion, and my colormatched AIM Euro Grill was damaged a few years ago, thus the new look, courtesy of Allstate :-)

Agreed....that's weird! LOL

All the headwork, portmatching and throttle body work was done through DPR Racing (http://www.dprracing.com/), although they farm out the throttle body to RC Engineering with no markup. I found the Nismo Isky cams at Courtesy Nissan in TX, (http://www.courtesyparts.com) or specifically (http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=99996-V256H&Category_Code=z31_nismo_camshaft) Plug wires, computer and headers from Automotive Customizers (http://www.4x4parts.com) Rebuild was local here in the Seattle, WA area (Fife to be exact) but I wouldn't recommend the place...lots of extra machine work to do after they finished

I'm not gonna get crazy and bust out the budget numbers, but needless to say, it can be embarassing to the uninitiated. Bumper: Smittybuilt with the overbar removed, downbars to tow hook mounting points added, and colormatched to body. Other mods: Dual Optimas under the vehicle, 130-amp alternator, custom 2" Sway-A-Way shocks on one-off Donahoe Racing shock hoops, complete Energry Suspension front bushings, complete custom front clip, rear pumpkin skidplate, Shrockworks sliders, Recaro front seats, Momo steering wheel, custom Alpine & MB Quart stereo with DVD and navigation and on and on and on... Total $$$ spent over 16 years of ownership = 1 nice condo in Dallas, TX :-)

Tires: BFG Baja T/A 31x10.50R15 (Speed rated T=sustained 118 mph ;-) + siping @ Discount Tire Wheels: Ugly ass polished aluminum American Racing 15x7 Type 160 Atlas powdercoated black at Art Brass Plating in Seattle Total cost: $2500 Oh what fun :-)

I found this description on the internet...it's spot-on: #475 of 481 Re: "E-AT" toggle switch..... [maxpower!] by shangai Oct 31, 2005 (6:11 pm) Reply | E-mail Msg Replying to: maxpower! (Oct 13, 2005 1:51 pm) Answer: In short, it is the Power/Economy switch for the automatic transmission. For the slightly longer version this power/economy switch is similar to the sport/economy switch that can be found on other cars. The normal or default mode is the economy mode. Pressing the switch will activate the power mode, which changes the shift points by causing the transmission to shift later for an up-shift and sooner for a down shift, thus allowing the engine to rev a bit higher than it would normally in the economy mode. This power mode is useful when towing and when climbing a steep grade. Using the power mode under these conditions is most helpful in preventing the transmission from hunting or using a gear that is too high for the situation.

Yeah, I thought I'd spread the love over here, too ;-) I was expecting $8000, but once I was neck deep, I found out the truth...

Grill is from JBM Sport Trucking Accessories (www.sporttrucking.com). Need to switch headlights and headlight mounts to make it work.

I had my VG30E rebuilt last year (finished in November) including: • 0.020 overbore with full balancing • DPR Racing headwork including ported and polished exhaust and intake and stainless steel swirl polished valves • port-matched throttle body, intake plenum, intake manifold, and head intake ports. • Nismo Isky 256 deg camshafts • Accel 8mm plug wires Plus the stuff I already had: • cone intake filter • Doug Thorley headers • 2-1/2" custom stainless exhaust w/ Power Tone muffler and • JWT computer ...that's about as good as she gets with normal aspiration without lots of custom parts! Well, I guess I could switch to an electric fan :-) Sorry, no dyno information...yet

These are factory 1995 Pathfinder cup holders. They fit in *any* D21 or WD21 center console. You may have to remove an older factory armrest or cover before you bolt this one in. I keep napkins direcly below it in case I spill a bit.