Eli

Word...I'll check it out

Here's how you check...you wait until you hear the squeak nice and loud and repetative...depends on the road and your speed...when it's squeaking really good, look at your windshield washer squirters...if they're vibrating left to right in sync with the squeak, you've found your problem! Now if only I could get the rear hatch window to stop squeaking!!!

make sure you get re-aligned ASAP! Torsion bar adjustments change caster *and* camber, so a) you'll wear out the inside or outside of your tires *very* quickly if you don't have the camber readjusted, and you're steering will be to twitchy or won't straighten out properly if you don't have the caster readjusted. I always go to a frame shop to have the Pathfinder aligned, because the front-end alignment cheapos usually don't understand how to properly align these torsion bar vehicles. While you're at it, have 'em crow-bar around on your ball-joints to make sure everying's tight...an alignment with bad ball-joints is worthless!

I replaced the plastic hinge covers with new ones from the local dealer parts deparment. Fixed. Never could find anyone capable of reinforcing the puss-hinges. At least you figured out it's your hood...most people think their dash is loose!

I have several tiny "pinholes" in my fuel tank that provide me with this same smell. Been quite a few years now. The gas tank skid plate makes it hard to see the leakage, since the liquid leaks are virtually non-existant...just leaves a sticky dirt residue on the bottom of the tank. Could be your problem, too.

That's the Revolution, and is, as far as I know, discontinued :-(

I know the feeling ;-)

They're right there in the ashtray!

There *are* zerk fittings in the hinges. That's the way the factory intended the tire carrier hinges to be lubricated. It worked for me :-)

Sounds like worn lower control arm bushings. Check 'em out...if they are worn, they'll quickly lead to dangerous "speed wobbles."

Also, • The jump-up steering column • The automatic heating/air-conditioning system • The seats being low to the floor for that sporty feel • The cargo tie-downs/net for the rear cargo area • The E-AT adjustable automatic transmission And the fact that I drive over obsticles that make Wrangler owners ask "How come *his* wheels didn't come off the ground like mine did?" :-)

I've done the relay setup, too. You just remove the wires from the headlights and send them to the relay on-off terminal. Then wire the headlights through the relay power terminals. Make sure you switch out the 20A headlamp fuses with 5A fuses for the relays.

Parts for truck grill swap are grill (duh), headlight buckets, headlights. Bolt on affair. I can't find the part numbers for the E-code Pathfinder lights right now, but I'll do some digging and see if I can find a current source. Used to be available through dealer parts through Nismo catalog, but the catalog is *very* different now :-(

Mods at time of swap: Thorley Headers, cone intake, 8mm plug wires. Results after JWT ECU exchange. Better torque above 4800 rpm, i.e. quicker to get out of 2nd gear and into 3rd under full throttle getting on the freeway (i'm talking auto trans, here), and MUCH easier getting out of 3rd and into 4th under full throttle. Basically, I wouldn't trade back to the factory ECU ;-) These motors need all the help you can afford!

You can do a core exchange (at least you can with Automotive Customizers) so you don't have down time.

I have this blurry one... If you want to see something specific, lemme know, and I'll start a new thread and take some digital pics.

3 choices: Good: • Replace bulbs with a "whiter" light such as PIAA or Sylvania SilverStar Better: • Nismo E-code (European) headlights, replace factory headlights in the factory grill Best: • Replace grill with truck grill and install aftermarket 5"x7" rectangular headlights, such as Hella Xtreme Vision, or Delta Technologies HID lamps.

you talkin' to me?

New ECU from Jim Wolf Racing is available at Automotive Customizers. It's expensive, but if you've done anything else to your VG30E, you'll know that already. I doubt you'd get any better program than the one they offer. **Happy Customer**

This one's a perfect fit:

Since I'm all tuned up, calibrated, and passing emissions with ease (not to mention the complete diagnositc I just received, including O2 sensor), and the fact that my rig and gear weighs in at just under 5000 lbs with me in it.....I guess I better lay off the gas! F*ck that! I didn't build the motor to lay off the gas ;-) LOL

Damn you economical fools! After heading down to my local speedometer shop a few years ago, I finally get my TRUE mpg, and after the performance rebuild....(drumroll please)...(and I have a lot of extra steel on and in the vehicle)...(and I have the 21.1 gallon tank)....(so without further ado :-)... around town, the worst I ever get is 11.0 mpg, which puts me at 232 miles (if I fill it up and then purposely run out of gas) last tank was 12.2 mpg, which puts me at 257 miles when I run out of gas, and 207 miles when I pull into the station on empty. and on the freeway, 13.5 mpg is the norm, which means that after 200 miles, I've gotta start looking for a fuel stop. Let's put it this way...I'VE BEEN SERIOUSLY CONSIDERING HAVING TRANSFER FLOW BUILD ME A 30-GALLON REPLACEMENT TANK!!!!

True! Just happened to me, but those bolts are easier to figure out, because your alignment shims fall out and you can feel the excess movement in the steering wheel, etc.

Just put another nut on after the first nut. It hangs way off the end, but solves the problem. The nut to nut friction keeps either one from backing off. (sorry about the gross innuendo :-) It's not that I forget about the situation (my mechanic does a thorough full undercarriage inspection every 3000 miles), it's that my UCA hasn't come loose again in well over 100,000 miles.

I had this problem persistantly. The solution is double nuts. Don't f- around with this problem - too dangerous. Double nut and forget about it.