Eli

For those with $$$ to burn, the DPR head port & polish with swirl polished stainless valves, RC Engineering throttle-body over-bore, and full throttle-body to head port matching finishes off the deal.

I'm a member through my 4WD club C.O.R.E. (www.core4x4.com).

Try JBM Sport Truck & Auto Accessories. 800-598-5555 I bought my chrome clear corners and billet grill there. I don't have front bumper signal lenses anymore, but I beleive they sell them also.

Here's the rest of the PW Northwest: /////////////////////////////////////////////////// IDAHO: From http://www3.state.id.us/cgi-bin/newidst?sctid=490090049.K Behind all wheels of every motor vehicle other than trucks, buses, semitrailers, or trailers, the fenders or covers shall extend in full width from a point above and forward of the center of the tire over and to the rear of the wheel to a point that is not more than twenty (20) inches above the surface of the highway, unless the bumper is a factory built bumper fastened directly to the frame of the vehicle pursuant to factory installation requirements; /////////////////////////////////////////////////// MONTANA: From http://data.opi.mt.gov/bills/mca/61/9/61-9-407.htm a) If the vehicle is equipped with fenders, the fenders must extend in full width from a point above and forward of the center of the tire or tires over and to the rear of the tires. If the vehicle is equipped with splash aprons or flaps, the splash aprons or flaps must extend downward in full width from a point not lower than halfway between the center of the tire or tires and the top of the tire or tires and to the rear of the tires. c) If the vehicle is in excess of 8,000 pounds ...blah blah blah d) If the vehicle is 8,000 pounds or less gross vehicle weight or rating, the fenders, splash aprons, or flaps must extend downward to a point that is not more than 20 inches above the surface of the highway when the vehicle is empty. /////////////////////////////////////////////////// BRITISH COLUMBIA: From http://www.qp.gov.bc.ca/statreg/reg/M/Moto...58/26_58_04.htm 7.06 Every motor vehicle, trailer and semitrailer not constructed so that the spray and splash of water and mud to the rear of the vehicle is minimized shall be equipped with mudguards and, if necessary, mudflaps. ///////////////////////////////////////////////////

From http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/DMV/docs/vcb/VCB815.pdf on the website of the Oregon State Police: c) Type III fenders or mudguards must extend in full width from a point on the wheels that is above and forward of the center of the tire over a point at the rear of the wheel that is not more than 27 inches above the surface of the highway. Type III fenders or mudguards must be on every vehicle axle on vehicles with a GVRW under 8,000 lbs. /////////////////////////////////////////////// Oregon's fender & mudflap laws are much more leniant than Washington's.

OH MY GOD!!!!! A COP LIED!!!!! -alcohol- HOLY SMOKEY & THE BEAR!!!!! A COP LIED!!!!! I WOULDN'T BELIEVE IT!!!!!! :eek: A COP LIED!!!!! I THOUGHT THEY ONLY LIED UNDER OATH!!!!!!!!!

From Washington State Patrol website: http://www.wa.gov/wsp/traveler/cvd/pasequip.htm "Required Equipment Fenders - Shall cover the entire tread width, at least 15 degrees to the front, and 75 degrees to the rear. Shall extend down to at least the center of the axle. RCW 46.37.500 & WAC 204-90-040" 1.5" or 2" past the flare is a violation....only zero inches will keep you out of trouble (for your fenders and mudflaps, at least :-) for sure. If you take off your fender flares, and you're running no larger than 31x10.50s on 7" rims, your rears will be legal (if you have mudflaps) but your fronts will be illegal. I have Nismo fiberglass flared front fenders (discontinued as far as I know) to keep my fronts legal without flares.

I recommend Redline High-Temp ATF

I second that :-) Mine's *in* my fenderwell!

Word, Sorry...we had major troubles with a full-size blazer on upper shoestring...but I've never been to Elbe, so I can't make a fair comparison....I'm sure you'd do fine with your experience... Have fun on the Rubicon! I'm planning on going 2007

I'm glad you're 'bout it! I've got some bad news for you though....full-size axles are a no-no on Upper Shoe String trail...it's SUPER TIGHT between the trees...it's *possible*, since you don't have a full-size body, but not much fun...

Thanks! Unfortunately at this point, I plan on cancelling the run, unless I get 2 takers by tomorrow afternoon! Am I the only one who can afford to keep a Nissan running long enough to go 4-wheeling with it??!!??

You're looking at the solution in my sig pic...hardbody grill, factory light buckets (junkyard or parts department--you're choice). It's plug-and-play... Add the relays and change the headlight fuses from 20A to 5A to cover the relays. I did that years before I changed to 200mm Hellas and the voltage gain alone made a difference. Add Hellas and change your world!

Word...I'll check it out

Here's how you check...you wait until you hear the squeak nice and loud and repetative...depends on the road and your speed...when it's squeaking really good, look at your windshield washer squirters...if they're vibrating left to right in sync with the squeak, you've found your problem! Now if only I could get the rear hatch window to stop squeaking!!!

make sure you get re-aligned ASAP! Torsion bar adjustments change caster *and* camber, so a) you'll wear out the inside or outside of your tires *very* quickly if you don't have the camber readjusted, and you're steering will be to twitchy or won't straighten out properly if you don't have the caster readjusted. I always go to a frame shop to have the Pathfinder aligned, because the front-end alignment cheapos usually don't understand how to properly align these torsion bar vehicles. While you're at it, have 'em crow-bar around on your ball-joints to make sure everying's tight...an alignment with bad ball-joints is worthless!

Manastash Ridge is 25 miles or so to the south-east of Cle Elum. I wouldn't dare the trail in the winter...it's hectic enough right now, and I was halfway up my headlights in muddy water at one point. This is a 6 HOUR trail in the heat of summer!

I replaced the plastic hinge covers with new ones from the local dealer parts deparment. Fixed. Never could find anyone capable of reinforcing the puss-hinges. At least you figured out it's your hood...most people think their dash is loose!

Since the original Manastash post is for takers only, I appreciate no one clogging up the post with cross-talk, but I'm curious...how come no takers? Too far? Wrong time? Something else entirely?

I have several tiny "pinholes" in my fuel tank that provide me with this same smell. Been quite a few years now. The gas tank skid plate makes it hard to see the leakage, since the liquid leaks are virtually non-existant...just leaves a sticky dirt residue on the bottom of the tank. Could be your problem, too.

*** ONLY RESPOND IN THIS THREAD TO JOIN THIS RUN *** MANASTASH RIDGE including STRING TRAIL and BOEING EMPLOYEE TRAIL *** ABSOLUTELY NO FULLSIZE VEHICLES *** *************************************** VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: • 31" tires with open differentials or better • Rocker protection recommended but not required (hey, they're your rockers ;-) • Recovery points *************************************** Meet at Cle Elum DAIRY QUEEN at 9:00 AM, Saturday, July 29, 2006. *************************************** Bring: • Lunch and snacks (this is a LONG trail) • Mosquito Repellent (preferrably Jungle Juice or other 95%+ DEET) • Plenty of Liquids (again, this is a LONG trail) • Recovery gear • A good attitude :-)

That's the Revolution, and is, as far as I know, discontinued :-(

I know the feeling ;-)

They're right there in the ashtray!

There *are* zerk fittings in the hinges. That's the way the factory intended the tire carrier hinges to be lubricated. It worked for me :-)