navygz19

Geez, you know I was wondering the EXACT same thing

Never heard of it before, but come one, current bid $.01, free shipping and coming from Hong Kong? If it smells like sh!t....... If you're looking to save money on a GPS, just pony up and get a REAL reciever (used) off of ebay, I paid $220 for my Garmin Street Pilot C320 a few months ago and it's awesome. Plus, all the accessories I need are widely available on ebay as well. Stay away from gimmicks like that, it reminds me of those "15 h.p. performance chips" they love to sell on ebay for our Pathys!...just my $.02

When I had my old SE-R and slammed it 2 inches without changing the bearing or mount it binded like hell as well, I know the exact sound and feeling your talking about. Defective part maybe?? Bad bearing?

Wow that's interesting, especially b/c I was just wondering about those bearings/mounts myself... No idea, sorry.

I'm about to go OME lift w/ KYB's...I think they should be replaced. Should have mentioned that to begin with...

THIS was why I was asking about it being OEM (scroll down to #3 here) I didn't think they were though. Anyways, thanks for your input. Anyone elose had experiance with the A/C bearings/mounts? I figured dealer parts would be better but more $$ as well. If the KYB's hold up alright, then I would go for them. Thanks guys (and girls! :tongue: )

How do they stack up against KYB and MOOG? Does anybody know who mfg.'s them? I was thinking it was KYB, seeing as that's OEM. Thanks

Because on some people's Pathy's the "race car" stance looks a little silly, especially when you remove the factory wheel flares, it emphasizes it. Some people's slant more than others, though. Stock slant is ok, but I wouldn't want it much mroe than that... Just my .02.

What does everyone think about AC coils up front and OME in the rear? Not saying I would do it, but seeing as with a straight setup of either brand the fronts sit lower than the rears, wouldn't this alleviate that problem? Pros? Cons? Just thought I'd ask...

I found this today from another site, Proline Racks It looks pretty close to the Load Warrior (1.5" shallower though) and at $129.00 ($150.00 LESS than the Yak Rak) it's a helluva deal. I'm sure you can use the spare tire carrier from Yakima as well, as it looks like it's made to compete with it. I just might have to get one of these, and the wind fairing is $30.00 more. If you can deal without having the super-cool name brand stuff, this could be a good rack for you

bump where's the pics?

Wow nice! That looks great, I've always loved that color on the R50's

I'm retarded w/ the mertic system and don't feel like doing the conversion, but I know that 43,000 Km's isn't a lot at all, so on that note I wouldn't. But if it's original, even with low miles, that fluid's 9 years old. Therefore, I don't think it would hurt at all to have it flushed. It's good habit anyways when buying used, unless you KNOW it's been done recently. I would be thinking more about the t-belt. 9 years is a long time to still have the original on.

Orangetang is what you did? Sounds like he over-revved the hell out of it right as he hit a "deeper" part of the rut, which was on the drivers side. Subsequently, that's also where his intake is (inside the drivers' side wheel well) Looks/sounds like he timed it just right. It really doesn't take much to suck water...

Do you have your inner fender lining intact on your drivers side?

NOT trying to jack this thread, but yeah, I had an SE-R, albeit NOT an almighty SR20DE'ed one from the mid 90's...an 02 in fact powered by the new QR25 and I regretted it every day since I bought it...weak internals combined with a low red line made for an unimpressive ride. It was in the shop more than I drove it. It WAS, however, fast as hell, and I was 20, single and in the Navy at the time Had a pretty cool dash layout too...

Do you mean this? It allows for any water that may have been sucked up into the piping (especially true with lowered cars w/ CAI's where the pipe will go down into the wheel well, just in front of the tire) to come out where you see that foam adapter before it enters the TB and IM...not that I'd trust it to work...I had an AEM on my SE-R for 3 years and everytime it rained had to play hopscotch around the puddles. I guess it could work with a pop charger or SRI, but there's only 1 pipe to work with and I've never seen bypasses made for them. You'd have to retro-fit it. I guess with Pathies it's easy to hydrolock in shallow water, hitting it hard enough, at a crazy angle (calling Brandon ) I really try to steer away from muck now, esp. after these two incidents. Good luck!

How fast were you going when you hit that water? Did you go WOT when you were in the middle of the hole or something? I don't get it...I've had water over my headlights before and hadn't had a problem (going very slow, however) That water hole is tiny...me thinks I need to start avoiding water altogether

Any higher Alex and you'll close yourself in your garage Looks good! Post pics of the blocks...and what it is when you get the spacers.

Sounds like you've already made your mind up!

The reference was being made that R50's are unibodies...good luck trying to SAS something w/o a frame...

You know, I was wondering the same thing here...

Oh man PL lemme tell you...since I got mine I've easily added 15% HP over stock, 18+ inches of flex (with stock shocks and struts) and I regularly achieve 38MPG in the city running on a combination of jet fuel, Dunkin Donuts coffee grinds and Schlitz malt liquor. Trust me, they are worth your $$

I *think* those are the AT's max used to run in his rig's past life. Could be wrong though. **paging max**

Albeit expensive. Congrats on your mods.