Tungsten

Remove what is in the way.

alternator

Until Nissan can make something new that can compete off-road with the new Jeep Wrangler, which isn't hard at all, they can suck it.

definitely worth it

I'm still against changing the geometry of the block, even by 1mm. Boring out the cylinder walls a hair is OK but actually changing the shape of the block, even by 1mm, still sounds like a really bad idea to me, especially when there are other much more effective ways to make more power.

The FSM has the exact diagnostic procedure for that. I would start with the EGR valve, check it for sticking. If that doesn't do it, go rent a scanner, which is sometimes FREE, at your nearest auto parts store.

Just by design if you mill the block or the heads, the timing belt will not even line up properly. Think of how the timing belt is routed. This may work on an OHV engine but it will not work well on a SOHC. Boosting on the other hand is the best thing to do because these engines were designed to handle boost. The VH45 pistons and boring the 3.3 block is probably the best way to go for power in N/A terms. The VH pistons are flat while the VG pistons are dished. Yes, with VH45 pistons, you are using their flat piston shape to increase compression.

I learn a lot from the experience of others even if I don't do it myself. From what I know, you should never mill the heads on a VG. Yes, there is the right way and the cheap way to get things done. Please choose the right way, it's much more economical in the long run.

I guess you weren't paying attention then.

looks good to me

If you want something better than the V-powers, get the G-power plugs. They go by the model# BKR6EGP The plug will last longer because of their platinum tip. I wouldn't go with Iridiums just because changing your plugs more often keeps them from seizing in the head. Besides, the price range for G-powers is much nicer anyway. If you REALLY want Iridium, the correct range is 6. The correct plugs are BKR6EIX. Winter gas will reduce your MPG by about 2 MPG.

If you put all terrains on a regular minivan you will pretty much get the same thing. In terms of capability, it will be more than your average person will ever need.

I think you missed the fact that this is not NASCAR. That Z has a turbo, a Pathy doesn't. The turbo changes the physics completely. So yes you will see a benefit of adjustable gears with boost. I don't know where you guys get your information from. Stop reading ricer forums. Why do you think Nissan uses lower lift cams on the 3.3? It's to increase low end efficiency. If you are going to mess with the heads, you are going to be asking for trouble. Can you mill the heads with 0.001" tolerance? What about the bolts to tighten those heads down? Anyway, if you are going to be removing the heads, why not just rebuild the engine with a bigger bore and better pistons? I hate when things are done cheaply. Do it right or not at all. MR.510 will never endorse nonsense like this, why don't you talk to him. He in fact said, NEVER mill the heads on a VG.

Almost no one runs adjustable cam gears on a stock setup. Messing with the cam timing in a factory setup is not recommended. The real reason milling the heads is bad is that the heads will be out of specification and who knows what that will do to the head gasket. High lift cams cause parasitic drag because the engine has to work harder to push the valves open.

I had the solenoid go bad a few times on the parts store junk so I went and dropped two or three franklins at the dealer and have been worry free for 5 years now!

A few points to make here: 1. Milling heads on a VG is a STUPID idea and using a thinner head gasket is even more retarded. Not only is there potential for something to go wrong but you will throw the timing way off and as MY1PATH said, you will have to now use adjustable gears. 2. If you use high lift cams, they will create parasitic drag on the engine and you will actually lose more low end power. The stock 3.0 cams already have a pretty aggressive profile. 3. If you want to use high CR pistons then go for it but at that point you may as well build yourself a better engine.

Yes, vacuum hoses is another big one that will screw up the idle, unless your entire intake plenum gasket is leaking. The FSM has a really good diagnostic procedure for vacuum leaks. What's wrong with seafoam? That EGR valve sucks in a lot of carbon through the exhaust.

that's my favorite metal of all metals

I have all the parts to do the speaker to headliner swap already. All you need is the headliner and the speaker bracket.

A high idle at startup is NORMAL. I don't know about 1800 rpm but mine will definitely idle at 1200 rpm until warm up. You might want to check out the idle air control valve and the throttle cable for sticking. If your engine is carboned up inside, you will also get a ridiculous idle. Did you ever try seafoam through the brake booster line?

...but I might have...

You need to have really good memory doing these things or OCD will come into play and waste your time.

First of all, do you know how much an automatic transmission costs? Do you know how complicated it is compared to a toroidal CVT? Second, that is not the final version but only a scale model. I am pretty sure that the transmission can be downsized to fit into an actual vehicle and save on materials. Third, even if you make those disks out of tool steel, which is very expensive steel (chrome vanadium), it will still be relatively inexpensive due to its simplicity. In my opinion, automatic transmissions need to GTFO already. They are inefficient, heavy, cumbersome, create a lot heat, and need to be serviced way too much. The newer 8 speed transmissions just add fuel to the fire in terms of their disadvantages. Yes they work but that doesn't mean they are effective. I guess for what they are, they're not too bad and have got much better over the years but that doesn't mean we should stop looking for better alternatives.