Tungsten

Kingman, this is for you http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAn8rgrcGRU

Just installed a set from edicer2 today and what an improvement, they are so much brighter and fresher. No rust or cracks like it was on mine. Here are my old ones: Now to engineer the LED strips, stay tuned!

Ok I found a good kit from Summit Racing: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-1122/ However the thread is in English units and not Metric so idk wtf fits here. Also I decided to do single and NOT dual because I don't want to overload the stock oil pump.

uhm lego wheels rule

I had this problem before. Make sure your LCA bushings are not toilet paper.

relax you yours is an 88 so it qualifies for the long tubes

My credit card was charged today so I assume they have shipped those bad boys. Get em while they're still there peeps! Oh and my manifold is just about to explode.

If the crossmember is wet, its definitely the rear.

Yeah that Beck Arnley is a solid brand for dirt cheap.

I know some of us here are running shocks that are not wired to the electronic adjustment. Did anyone ever bother to plug in a 12v light in there? I am interested in what that will do. Perhaps it is PWM and you can have flashing strobes?

I would go with KYBs

Yep! I think it wasn't until 2000 with the new Pathfinder that they fixed this problem.

I had an oil leak and it happened to be from the rear main crank seal and my skid plate got sprayed too. Are you sure its the front seal?

Yeah as good as the updated dashboard clusters look, I don't like them because they are generally defective. I have seen one where the tach needle sat all the way at the end instead of 0 and wouldn't move.

Did you change the fuel filter?

Check the cap, it is a maintenance item at the dealer so you can get it cheap.

Mine has never dropped to less than 500 rpm, even when turning the steering wheel in D while pressing the brakes down. If your engine is all the way down in the 200s then its either the IACV or the MAF.

CO entering the cab is not a problem since the wind will just blow it back and away while driving. I only wanted a mid exit to avoid having to get another pipe to compensate for the length when the cat and muffler get installed. Also I thought it would be nice to avoid bends around axles.

you can hear the valves if your exhaust manifold studs are cracked however if the truck doesn't run good, your timing belt could have slipped a few teeth and the cams are smacking valves

So after looking around, I can't find anything being related to how much back pressure the VG30E was designed for. I need the info because I need to know what to do once the Thorley headers are in. Would there be enough back pressure if I had headers with no cat in the down pipe followed by a Magnaflow cat and a Magnaflow muffler? I can keep the muffler and cat as stock but I want to put as little force as possible on those headers. Is it possible to have the exhaust exit midway instead of at the back? What would be a good setup for this?

normal your exhaust manifold is probably warped or the manifold studs are cracked get a new exhaust manifold or get some headers

Is your transfer case shifter in the proper position? If you lost reverse, that transmission needs to be rebuilt.

X2 I run KYB GR-2s all around, great ride and handling. They have somewhere past 50k miles on them already and still perform like new.

http://4wheeldrive.about.com/b/2009/09/23/...-more-acres.htm http://www.govtrack.us/congress/bill.xpd?bill=h111-1925 You can see the hearing live here: http://resourcescommittee.house.gov/index....273&Itemid=

I don't know about you guys but I'm loving the Beck Arnley fan clutch. Once it engages, its instant cool down. The only problem is winter time when its cold, it takes some time to go free wheeling on the shaft. It kept my truck below 1/2 in extreme heat, like 104 F.