Tungsten

Thank you Tex!

every now and then i pull em and clean all the @!*% out of the body

if you loose a timing belt, you will make valve soup

Ive been trying to get it but its been raining and ruining the sound. I think I got something tonight, will try to post it. Its a very subtle knock, not harsh, so its a little hard to hear from a camera microphone.

well ill see and how do i get that stubborn plug to come out without it breaking in the head

yes the timing belt is less than 5000 miles old

can i unbolt the pulley and align it with the damper then? and yea ill try to get a video

so how do i fix that

under load i can tell you its definitely not a rod knock

no the rod is good, there is no knock at rev in park the balancer only goes on one way right? is it keyed?

now now don't insult the legos

i meant rev the engine in park... i think i am screwed big time well i got cap, rotor, plugs, and wires now most of the spark plugs came out fine (the one against the firewall is a bitch) the middle plug on the passenger side did not want to budge, can't make more than 2 turns to it i guess ill wait till the engine is cold and try again so without installing the new cap, rotor, or wires yet i put the old cables back on to test it started right up then got the sensor disconnected and hooked up the timing light to the first cylinder (i think passenger side first one is first) and behold the timing light reports that the timing is off by 100 degrees so either the marks on the harmonic balancer are off or the first cylinder isn't a first cylinder and i don't even know wtf to do now i took it to a shop and they said some rubber thing rotated and misaligned with the marks and they couldn't set the timing either would the truck even run with 100 degrees off in timing?!

i doubt its the oil pump, if i rev the engine at idle there is no tick

I have the same lean as it seems but on the drivers side. I don't know if I should just get new t-bars from Calmini or to reindex the old ones.

how hard is it to take the reading from the transmission computer?!

What kind of fuel should I use when setting it? I came to a shop to get this done and they did it by ear and said they can use the light but it would be useless. They told me if it keeps doing that try higher grade gas and come back.

if its not fulltime 4wd then yea that knob is from a newer truck you can put that shaft back, its not engaged in 2wd anyway

Tried that...it did help but its impossible to get the timing perfect. That makes sense! Could just be clicking injectors and mine is MPFI. Do you know if they click on load or at idle too? I don't have any clicks at idle.

its the thermostat

they came in full time 4wd models after 92 i think

its full time

uhm thats the worst place for the cup holders

anybody? this is really annoying i thought the new studs and headers would fix this but it wasn't a manifold problem

there are no knocks or ticks at idle, it runs smooth and i'm pretty sure its not misfiring how do you set the timing, isn't it set by ecu?!

its like when you discharge static electricity by touching something metal it makes that sound can't be an exhaust leak at the heads i have headers with brand new studs and the nuts are on tight i even did what doug thorley said and tighten the manifold nuts and flange bolts up even more when they are hot to the peak torque