Tungsten

ok well after i unplugged the battery i came up with a flu... now that i got better i got the o2 sensor replaced with a dealer one truck runs better but i unplugged the battery again to see if i can get an even better calibration

ok well i just unplugged the battery ill see what happens when i plug it back in even if it does work good, im still planning on replacing the o2 sensor because the old one is probably covered in crud

good thing i found this i bought a 94+ o2 sensor but i think my ECU is a 90-93 thanks!! how do you find out the year of the ECU?

no it worked fine before but thanks for the tip

so a plugged up o2 will do that...you could be right about that one

no exhaust leaks at all o2 sensor checks out fine i get more than 5 green blinks in 10 seconds on the ECU ill try cleaning the MAF again... anything else?

idk about MAF, looks clean o2? theres no code for that... i reset the ECU by turning the diagnostic screw fuel filter was changed recently yes whats the interval on those?

Ok first of all heres my setup: VG30E with Auto Doug Thorley Short Tube Headers with 2.25" collector 2.00" Midpipe 2.00" Magnaflow NON-CARB Catalytic Converter 2.00" Flowmaster 60 series muffler 2.00" Tailpipe Now when the truck warms up, it runs slightly rich, and its good for a few minutes until it gets warmed up. When starting to accelerate now it doesn't dump enough fuel and almost stalls out the engine! I checked the ECU, it checks out as 55. This happened right after I put on the Flowmaster 60 muffler, it was good with the stock one but sounded crappy. I think what happened is it used to rely on the extra back-pressure to keep it going but not anymore. The exhaust flow improved and so did my fuel economy and even sounds nice now but its like WTF to drive. Can anyone help me out? I can make a video if you want to see it.

UPDATE took a little off the frame as pipe bending did not work too well so no more cats full of marbles, i cleared the knock sensor code, its not coming back now there is so much flow in my exhaust that the engine doesn't work right when it warms up and runs slightly rich its good but when it goes into closed loop oh boy when starting to accelerate now it doesn't dump enough fuel and almost stalls out the engine it used to rely on the extra back-pressure to keep it going but not anymore i guess ill have to see if i can re-program the ECU to make it run right again so need some serious help here i will continue here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24955

GM sucks, they don't know how to make good business decisions and their unions got out of hand. GM sucks GM sucks GM sucks GM sucks GM sucks GM sucks GM sucks GM sucks GM sucks oh and GM sucks

yea why did they remove that wtf

time for new struts

lol nice had that happen to me when i put a new PS belt on except my pump literally exploded dousing my engine in PS fluid what a mess that was

high temp silicone?! what did you do?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUL7SL9ORu4 I hope this helps!

Ok I did the codes again this morning and its coming up with this 34 Knock Sensor. WTF?! Hopefully the sensor is good, I guess the rattle from the pipe is causing the code. Here you can see where it may be hitting...

Brand new ignition: cap, rotor, wires, and plugs ALL FROM DEALER, GENUINE NISSAN PARTS Fuel filter might be a problem but I only changed that a year ago I do have clicky fuel injectors but they were like this since I got this truck

ok i need help the truck runs like @!*% its bogging down when i hit the gas when cruising, the rpms bounce up and down is it because of the timing? its either the pipe hitting the part of the crossmember and the knocking is triggering the knock sensor or something else is screwing with the ECU which is causing the engine to shake and bang the pipes looks like im gonna be walking soon

they are viscous on the inside when the oil is cold, they will bind no matter what once the radiator heats up the fan clutch it loosens over time the oil in the fan clutch will break down and it will either permanently bind or fail

it also depends if your fan clutch is binding or not you will get to about 1/4 on the temp gauge if it is and about a little less than 1/2 if its not

yep thats it then maybe the springs inside them get lazy and cause that idk

UPDATE Ok! Upon further investigation I think it is the clicking fuel injectors. After my new exhaust system, the pipe is banging on the crossmember now and retarding my timing to hell. The sound does not change with the timing and it definately doesn't sound like a knock. It could be a lifter tick but it sounds a bit too high pitched for a lifter tick and no camera microphone can pick it up. Therefore I suspect it to be the fuel injectors clicking. The more fuel they inject, the louder they click. The amount of clicks per second changes with the RPM too so its probably the injectors going faster and slower. Is it normal for these things to click? I have been running like this since I got this thing and haven't had a problem.

take the right wheel off, its easy to get to

coolant temp sensor.

Yeah I was just saying when you get it fixed... You might have had a cooler thermostat installed from before because the cat or radiator was plugged and it was overheating the engine. I remember I had a problem where my thermostat was stuck open and it wouldn't even go to the C mark.